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#24382 - 10/05/06 12:49 AM Double (half) rope recommendations
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
The current search facility doesn't work, and anyway preferences change as new models come out.

I'm in the market for 60 m doubles in the 8.5 mm range. (9mm is a bit heavy, 8mm seem to tangle too easily.) Got any likes and/or dislikes?

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#24383 - 10/05/06 01:47 AM Re: Double (half) rope recommendations [Re: rg@ofmc]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
Scott and I have Mammuts, and really, really like them. Of all the ropes I've seen, Mammuts seem to handle and wear the best. He had a set of Edelweiss before that, can't go wrong there.

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#24384 - 10/05/06 01:51 AM Re: Double (half) rope recommendations [Re: rg@ofmc]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
I've got the Mammut Genesis and I like them. I've only climbed on a couple other doubles so I don't have much to compare with. I'm probably going to pick up another pair next season, but I like my Beal Stinger III single so much I might switch to the Beal Cobras. If anyone has any comments about them I'd like to hear them.
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#24385 - 10/05/06 02:46 AM Re: Double (half) rope recommendations [Re: quanto_the_mad]
tokyo bill Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/24/00
Posts: 793
Loc: Tokyo
I've been happy with my Bluewater Excellence 8.5s. They've worn well and handle well.

I climbed on a partner's pair of PMI Fusion 8.6s at Redrocks a couple of years ago and liked them, too. Thought they handled perhaps not quite as well as the BWs, but so close as to be a matter of taste only. I did notice that the two strands were two or three meters different in length (ropes were newly purchased; not cut) - a moderate annoyance when flaking over an anchor leash to bring up a partner. Haven't heard how they've worn in the ensuing years.

As a matter of interest, you can still find Fusions listed at Mountaingear, etc., but a visit to the PMI website just showed me that they've changed their double's model name to "Synergy" and sell it in two diameters, 8.1 and 8.6, either dry or regular (apparently replacing the old Verglass and Fusion). Both diameters are now UIAA rated as both doubles and twins, which used to be true of the Verglass only and is kinda nice. Only ropes on the market with that distinction, I think. Don't yet see Synergy listed on any of the on-line retailer pages.

My partner for my upcoming Oz trip is also in the market for doubles, and I think he's going for either the Mammut Genesis or the BW Excellence. He's climbed on my BWs on two prior trips, so apparently he didn't hate them...

Edited to add: Appears I was wrong about the PMIs being the only ones certified as both doubles and twins. Check out this thread on that other web site for more: web page


Edited by tokyo bill (10/05/06 03:57 AM)

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#24386 - 10/05/06 03:22 PM Re: Double (half) rope recommendations [Re: tokyo bill]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
There's quite a bit of discussion about this on rockclimbing.com. My subjective impression is that the Mammut Genesis gets the most favorable rating; a lot of people like them, nobody doesn't like them. There is also an enthusiastic following for Bluewater doubles, with a pretty small minority that doesn't like them. I think that third place goes to Sterling Marathons, but some people find them too stiff. Anyone have any opinions about these ropes?

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#24387 - 10/05/06 04:11 PM Re: Double (half) rope recommendations [Re: rg@ofmc]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
i have the sterling doublesThey are 8.6 but i don't know if they still sell them, that size. I thought i read something about new threads they used made the ropes slightly wider..anyways. i am on my second set of them, they handle exceptionally, and have aged really nicely

i still use the first set, but i keep them iin NJ
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#24388 - 10/05/06 06:51 PM Re: Double (half) rope recommendations [Re: CrackBoy]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2354
Loc: Boston
I'm a fan of the Mammuts. Stiff enough to prevent bad tangles that I've had to deal with with some other manufacturers' ropes.

GO

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#24389 - 10/06/06 01:09 AM Re: Double (half) rope recommendations [Re: rg@ofmc]
pitfall Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/01/00
Posts: 1165
Loc: Albany
I believe I have the genesis and like them. They have been known to tangle up a bit but I attest that to operator error (operator shall remain anonymous). I can't comment on durability as I have only had them one year and they have only seen ice.
The marathons I had were 8.8s. They are a bit heavy. I never found mine to be too stiff. One thing about marathons, they are durable. Something to consider when using them on rock. I have confidently used mine as singles on ice plenty of times, but of course would never recommend such a practice.
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#24390 - 10/06/06 03:01 AM Re: Double (half) rope recommendations [Re: pitfall]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Hey, add me to the "I've got Mammuts and like them" pile. They've held up really well for me... and I, like pitfall, have been known to climb on them as singles plenty of times, though I don't recommend it, either.
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#24391 - 10/06/06 12:59 PM Re: Double (half) rope recommendations [Re: rg@ofmc]
Bolt_Skytop Offline
addict

Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 422
Loc: New Paltz, New York
I will join the bandwagon, I like my Genesis.

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