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#24411 - 10/07/06 04:56 PM Worthwhile upper pitches- V3 to Wisecrack
socialist1 Offline
member

Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 145
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ
Hey all,

I was wondering if there are any good upper pitches on this section of the cliff (V3 to Wisecrack), which covers the Never Never Land area and the Commando Rave/Balrog area. Four times now I have attempted to find some merit in doing the upper pitches here, trying a second pitch to V3, Balrog, Alley Oop, and Cakewalk. Each time I have found it to be mediocre climbing and I have come down wishing I hadnt wasted the time. So any suggestions? Otherwise this is going to be a single pitch only area for me.

Cheers,

Ross

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#24412 - 10/07/06 08:38 PM Re: Worthwhile upper pitches- V3 to Wisecrack [Re: socialist1]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
There are some good 3rd pitches but you have to climb that junk in the middle, I think.

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#24413 - 10/10/06 04:25 PM Re: Worthwhile upper pitches- V3 to Wisecrack [Re: dalguard]
tjf24 Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/20/05
Posts: 36
Do P1 and P2 of Gory Thumb and then P3 of Pleh (as described in the new Williams guide). The roof on Pleh is super fun 5.8G. You could also get to Pleh from V3 (actually called the direct finish by Swain), but you need to climb the boring 2nd pitch. The second pitch of Gory Thumb is pretty exciting, so the whole thing makes for a very nice link-up from the ground to the top.

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#24414 - 10/10/06 04:31 PM Re: Worthwhile upper pitches- V3 to Wisecrack [Re: tjf24]
socialist1 Offline
member

Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 145
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ
Thanks for the suggestions. I've done both pitches of Gory Thumb which were pretty fun but have yet to do the third pitch of Pleh, so I will look into that...

Judging by the small amount of responses, Im guessing there really arent much options in this area. Oh well.

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#24415 - 10/10/06 04:38 PM Re: Worthwhile upper pitches- V3 to Wisecrack [Re: socialist1]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Has the ancient bolt on P2 of Gory Thumb been replaced?
_________________________
- Marc

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#24416 - 10/10/06 06:38 PM Re: Worthwhile upper pitches- V3 to Wisecrack [Re: MarcC]
tjf24 Offline
newbie

Registered: 08/20/05
Posts: 36
Quote:

Has the ancient bolt on P2 of Gory Thumb been replaced?




Nope...still looking pretty scary as of May 2006.

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#24417 - 10/10/06 06:52 PM Re: Worthwhile upper pitches- V3 to Wisecrack [Re: tjf24]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Quote:

Quote:

Has the ancient bolt on P2 of Gory Thumb been replaced?




Nope...still looking pretty scary as of May 2006.



The original bolts on Arrow, Sente, and Thin Slabs were the same as the one on Gory Thumb, with the hangar that acts as a lever, pulling straight out on the bolt. When the original Arrow bolts were pulled and replaced the first time, the upper bolt snapped with a single tug of a funkness device.

I'd suggest climbing P2 of Gory as if the bolt didn't exist, even if you clip it with a screamer.
_________________________
- Marc

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