also, if you ever climb long routes or anything in the mountains, you quickly figure out that speed can be more important to your safety than the usual boy scout rules.
insisting on everything being redundant right down to your spare adult diapers can be ridiculous when it might actually be safer to climb 4th class, or to simulclimb with running belays, or to go completely unroped.
probably 90% of my rappels in the mountains have been off a single, non-redundant piece or rock feature. most alpinists i've talked to say the same thing. is this dangerous? yes. is it more dangerous than running out of time or running out of gear? not even close. an example of how understanding the big picture is more important than memorizing the rules.
here are a couple of anchor pictures from our last trip, taken to torment some of our more dogmatic friends:http://www.paulraphaelson.com/downloads/anchors/anchor1.jpghttp://www.paulraphaelson.com/downloads/anchors/anchor3.jpg
i am not talking about alpine climbing or hard aid lines. i understand and i have climbed in those situations. i know that at times EXPERIENCED climbers need to make very serious decisions about safety, and sometimes the text book is thrown out. I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT THOSE TIMES!!!!!
the bottom line is this design is inherently flawed! that is all. IT IS A BAD BAD BAD DESIGN!!!! as i keep saying IF you are going to build a 3 piece anchor there is NO NEED to put that piece of shit on the end of it. it would take longer to get it out and hook it up that it would to just use the original 3 piece anchor CORRECTLY!
that is all. build a 2 piece anchor and do it right and be done. fuck the extra piece and that PIECE OF SHIT bad design cordelette! that is what i am saying! you people keep missing the point. IT IS A SHITTY DESIGN that takes more time energy and gear
than doing it "correctly" from the begining. that is all. leave that shit at home already.
stop telling me that you all can do it lighter and faster in the mountains and on aid routes. i am not talking about that. why don't some of you get on some hard aid with me and i will show you some genuinley scary shit.....that is "basically" safe by all your definitions! i am sure my fat ass can still do it! any one for several bashies, hooks , and rivit holes in a row? but do not fret....i will build you a good anchor i promise.
one last time for you that have trouble with this THIS CORD IS A TERRIBLE TERRIBLE DESIGN WITH INHERENT FAILURE POTENTIAL THAT BEGINNERS ARE ENCOURAGED TO USE!!!! BAD IDEA!
ps RG, it is not a moot point rather a simple explaination of a piss poor idea you are trying to pass off as good. it sucks. do it right already.