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#28177 - 04/09/07 10:43 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Daniel]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1038
Loc: The Bayards
 Originally Posted By: Daniel
Maybe I have a different notion of "exiting." I don't think it necessarily means risky, dangerous, or with potential groundfall (I'd just call that scary).


So I quess my idea of exciting, when I was climbing a lot, was unexpectedly near my limit and unexpectedly unprotected.

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#28178 - 04/10/07 01:42 AM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Smike]
learningtolead Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/16/02
Posts: 981
Loc: a wanna be kerhonkson-er
 Originally Posted By: Smike
That route is "G" after the initial move to the pin if your belayer is paying attention and you’re also quick with gear at the top of the right facing corner……its one of those “Pro and Go” type routes…

Most fun you can have on 5.9 in the Gunks in less then 20’ from the deck IMHO


Well, smikey would know, having taken that fall and i'm not even that great a belayer...

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#28179 - 04/10/07 04:26 AM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: learningtolead]
BrownPants Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/04/07
Posts: 6
hmm, it looks like I'm greatly outnumbered regarding Maria Direct, though I don't really recall that little corner above the pin being good for anything except pretend gear. And I certainly am not hearing any stories about falling onto a jingus HB in that little crack.

Perhaps all you people telling me how great that pin is actually gave up and fell onto the pin before you actually committed to climbing into groundfall territory.

For those of you placing gear in that little crack, what did you use? Did you not feel like you were just wasting energy and making it more dangerous for yourself?

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#28180 - 04/10/07 12:33 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: BrownPants]
caver Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 260
Loc: High Falls
There is a great side pull jug in the crack when you fully stand up in the corner............gear?!

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#28181 - 04/10/07 12:39 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: BrownPants]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
 Originally Posted By: BrownPants
hmm, it looks like I'm greatly outnumbered regarding Maria Direct, though I don't really recall that little corner above the pin being good for anything except pretend gear. And I certainly am not hearing any stories about falling onto a jingus HB in that little crack.

Perhaps all you people telling me how great that pin is actually gave up and fell onto the pin before you actually committed to climbing into groundfall territory.

For those of you placing gear in that little crack, what did you use? Did you not feel like you were just wasting energy and making it more dangerous for yourself?



Maria Direct takes a good small nut (#1 or #2 Wallnut, I think I used) once you pull the move above the pin (backed up with a cam, of course!) and get the decent rest stance. And yeah, I've seen people come off there and not deck.
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#28182 - 04/10/07 01:19 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: nerdom]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
i believe ive seen a red alien placed in a HURRY after getting the stance after the pin.
in a HURRY.
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#28183 - 04/10/07 02:14 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: empicard]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Yeah I've tried to get a nut in there and it can be fiddly but a red-yellow Alien (IIRC) slides in like butter.

BrownPants, we don't mean to make you angry. Sounds like you onsighted the thing which is a helluva an onsight. Some of us have been on it one bazillion times. So first off, back up the pin, eh? Secondly, you're exactly in ground fall range when your feet are standing on (next to) the pin. That's where you put gear in again (see above). If you blow the move trying to stand up, you come very, very close to hitting the ground and easily could hit the ground if your belayer were belaying you the way I've seen some belayers belay. So it's not a move to make lightly. It's committing and if you haven't been on the route before, you don't know you can gear once you stand up, and it's not a great stance to fiddle a nut in from. I've personally downclimbed from that spot when I couldn't get something in fast enough. So it's by no means a gimme, but yeah, it can be done safely.

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#28184 - 04/10/07 02:30 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: learningtolead]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
He weighs thirteen pounds. You don't even need a belay device for him....

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#28185 - 04/10/07 03:08 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: empicard]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
 Originally Posted By: empicard
i believe ive seen a red alien placed in a HURRY after getting the stance after the pin.
in a HURRY.


You are correct on both assumptions.

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#28186 - 04/10/07 03:12 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: strat]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
 Originally Posted By: strat
He weighs thirteen pounds. You don't even need a belay device for him....


Well I have come up to a belay of yours from time to time, only to see you throw your hands up in the air and go "check it out hip belay!"

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