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#28224 - 04/12/07 12:41 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Daniel]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Well there's lots of the above I haven't done, but then again, I *have* done Maria Direct, Bonnie's Roof (direct), and The Dangler.

Roseland, for me, was more exciting than any of these. It got me pumped silly, and being on lead on hard climbing while being pumped scares the bejesus out of me.

Oh, and it's just one move, but I was certainly spooked on Directissima. I got completely pumped from protecting that traverse, and then couldn't get a full rest at the arete. So making the crux move protected by that horrible pin was pretty tough.

GO

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#28229 - 04/12/07 02:37 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Daniel]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Hi Coroner I always thought was fun. Not that bad if you just keep calm.

On DAFF Dome in Tuolumne there is a 5.9 on the face to the right of Crescent Arch that even now I won't touch, since it scares the living cr#p out of me (it averages 1 bolt a pitch, and thats all the gear that goes in (and the pitches are 100-150 ft long). , and I have started to solo in the 5.10d range.

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#28231 - 04/12/07 03:00 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Chas]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Glad to hear I'm not the only one thinking that pin on Directissma needs to be replaced. I didn't find anything to back it up, but that might be due to pump and pucker.

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#28234 - 04/12/07 04:30 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: chip]
Rosceaux Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/28/00
Posts: 86
Since the discussion has moved towards other areas, has anyone led Half-Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon? Am I going to die on this thing, or just get hurt real bad? Its already some of the most intimidating 5.9 climbing for me, and I've only seen pictures at this point.

Mike Donnelly
(BobbyS, check your PMs)

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#28235 - 04/12/07 04:42 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Rosceaux]
OldEric Offline
newbie

Registered: 05/20/02
Posts: 48
 Originally Posted By: Rosceaux
Since the discussion has moved towards other areas, has anyone led Half-Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon? Am I going to die on this thing, or just get hurt real bad? Its already some of the most intimidating 5.9 climbing for me, and I've only seen pictures at this point.

Mike Donnelly
(BobbyS, check your PMs)


Half-Moon is not bad. I did it 30 years ago before cams and wearing EB's yada yada yada (well I did - so there). Seriously it is pretty solid - the last move where you have to reach up out of the crack to a bucket was a little iffy. If you are wicked skinny you can reach to the back and get some gear along the way. Alternatively you could just shell out the $$$ and buy a specialized big piece. Honestly we (I did it with a party of 3) thought the corner below it was harder.

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#28236 - 04/12/07 04:44 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Rosceaux]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Well, it depends on your OW technique! It's thuggish, grunty, 6" - 8" wide and about 75'(maybe less - the real business is about 40' long). It gets progressively harder (read: wider) as you go with the crux near the top of the pitch. If you have huge cams and/or Big Bros, it's not completely unprotected, but be prepared for a healthy run-out. There's a 9+ variation pitch in the dihedral off to the left - combo of friction, laybacking, and finger crack - pretty well protected, too. You also have the option of rapping off (since you're likely going to do that anyway after the next pitch, where the climb turns into 5.4 choss).



Edited by MarcC (04/12/07 04:51 PM)
Edit Reason: clarifying the length of the crack
_________________________
- Marc

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#28237 - 04/12/07 04:59 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Rosceaux]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
 Originally Posted By: Rosceaux
Since the discussion has moved towards other areas, has anyone led Half-Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon?


Ajax you out there?
_________________________
John Okner Photography

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#28264 - 04/13/07 02:49 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Rosceaux]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
 Originally Posted By: Rosceaux
has anyone led Half-Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon?


I was hoping to get on it this season. My largest piece is a #4 Camalot. Anyone know - will I be hating life if I don't scrounge up a #5 or bigger, or if I did get the piece would it only turn a 40 foot runout into a 39 foot runout?

GO

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#28266 - 04/13/07 03:00 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: talus]
ajax Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/13/07
Posts: 1
When we did the FFA Bragg lead the Half Moon, so no pucker factor for me. I am not a big fan of using cracks to scape skin off my body futher up or down than my hands and forearms.
These days when I repeat Vertigo,I start up the Half Moon Crack about 8 feet up (there used to be a fixed pin here) I step blindly left a few feet and there is an awesome 9 or so fingercrack that is a wonderful alternative especially for wide crack non-lovers.

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#28267 - 04/13/07 03:22 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: ajax]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Awe, a little heel toe and a decent chicken wing and that is perfect protection

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