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#28188 - 04/10/07 04:01 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: dalguard]
BrownPants Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/04/07
Posts: 6
 Originally Posted By: dalguard
BrownPants, we don't mean to make you angry...

...So it's not a move to make lightly. It's committing and if you haven't been on the route before, you don't know you can gear once you stand up, and it's not a great stance to fiddle a nut in from. I've personally downclimbed from that spot when I couldn't get something in fast enough. So it's by no means a gimme, but yeah, it can be done safely.


Whoops! I guess I got a little argumentative there..

Interesting gear beta, thanks. When I got up in that little corner, it just seemed so improbable that I would have the gas to hang out and figure out the gear. So I had to decide to either downclimb/hang-on-the-pin or just go for it and trust myself. That was why I thought it was exciting.

So maybe the route isn't exciting in and of itself, maybe it was just my approach to it.

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#28189 - 04/10/07 04:02 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Kent]
chazman Offline
old hand

Registered: 02/07/02
Posts: 944
Bonnie's Roof... I sure find it exciting... is it 5.9?

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#28198 - 04/10/07 05:59 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: chazman]
offbelay Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/05/07
Posts: 4
maria direct is a boulder problem with good gear

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#28199 - 04/10/07 09:32 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: offbelay]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
I am confused...How did this post go from comparing a route that is 9+/10- (depending on the guide book) and involves soloing the first 30-40 feet to a single move 5.9 G route.

Kent you couldn't have been more puckered than on P1 of E.M.

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#28200 - 04/10/07 09:49 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: CrackBoy]
Jannette Offline

Cliffmama
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 10/03/00
Posts: 2224
Loc: Gardiner, NY
 Originally Posted By: CrackBoy
yea i persoally think after that first hard move on maria direct it s fairly straightfoward to get to an established rest. Fun yes. 'excitingly scary' not really


Well, it was excitingly scary for me, especially since I probably didn't have any right to be leading that climb. I think that was my first 5.9 lead at the Gunks. Was just one of those days when the Frogs Head start to Maria was already occupied, and I was feeling very confident and decided to go for it instead of waiting. I made it, but it definitely put me back in my place.

Jannette

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#28206 - 04/11/07 01:53 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Jannette]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
We'll break it down by feet of 5.9:

Most exciting 40 feet: Midnight Cowboy
20 feet: Maria Direct
10 feet: The Dangler
5 feet: Jean

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#28207 - 04/11/07 02:22 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: dalguard]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I'm a little hesitant to participate here, since the fact that I did the first ascent of Midnight Cowboy (39 years ago) might count as prejudice. If I may say so, it is an excellent route and the bottom 30 feet is by no means the only exciting part.

I seem to remember a fairly good dose of adreneline on Heather. Gray Dick has it as Hether, puts it at R-X, and doesn't list it in boldface, a double kiss of death. I recall placing protection off to the side in the Pas De Deux crack, and I think that eliminates the X part of the rating, but there's no gettin' around the R part.

Two other exciting 5.9 leads are Lito and the Swan and Wild Horses.

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#28208 - 04/11/07 03:33 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: rg@ofmc]
RangerRob Online   confused
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
How about Land's End? I remember that being slightly nervewracking

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#28216 - 04/12/07 12:47 AM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: RangerRob]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
How bout a complete exercise in futility: Something Boring.

High Times

Deep Lichen

and the "5.8" climbing above the cruxes of Muriel's Nose and Tough Shift.

Fantasia at the leap

One of the pitches on Crack of Fear is 5.9...they were all equally exciting.

Solitary confinement in Tuolumne

The Hollow Flake on the Salathe...maybe more like 140 feet.

Yum Yum Yab Yum only has one scary move rated 5.9 so I guess its more like 5.3 in the gunks.

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#28219 - 04/12/07 04:18 AM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: RangerRob]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
How about Land's End? I remember that being slightly nervewracking


Yeah, neither Pedestrian nor I could find the "-" or the "G" on this "5.9- G" climb. John Peterson's Gunks site says "Better pro than it looks from the ground but still scary to lead. There's no real crux - just 40 or 50 feet of steep, continuous climbing with few good rests."

But even with my limited experience at the grade, I'd put others ahead of it in terms of excitement. What about Grim Ace Face? Is the crux too short to qualify? (I haven't done it.)

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