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#28165 - 04/09/07 05:11 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: dalguard]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
That route is "G" after the initial move to the pin if your belayer is paying attention and you’re also quick with gear at the top of the right facing corner……its one of those “Pro and Go” type routes…

Most fun you can have on 5.9 in the Gunks in less then 20’ from the deck IMHO

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#28166 - 04/09/07 05:58 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: dalguard]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Agreeing with Dawn here - I've caught the fall of someone whose feet were at the level of the pin in on Maria Direct (sun was in his eyes, he just coudn't get settled into the stance there). His feet did not touch the ground, but not by much. However, this was with a very close, attentive belay.

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#28167 - 04/09/07 06:01 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Smike]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2955
Loc: LI, NY
 Originally Posted By: Smike
That route is "G" after the initial move to the pin if your belayer is paying attention


oh jesus now you want me to pay attention??
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#28168 - 04/09/07 06:09 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: empicard]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Scared-y-cat that I am, I've lead that with 2 more pieces before the decent stance placement. Yes, I did; and my forearms had U.S.Lumber stamped on them for the rest of the day. Fear is a great motivator, and I sure didn't want to re-boulder the start.

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#28169 - 04/09/07 06:11 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: chip]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Before tiny cams and when the pin kept getting pulled, Hyjeks was a pretty fun first 20 feet.

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#28170 - 04/09/07 06:27 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Kent]
Kent Offline
old hand

Registered: 01/21/00
Posts: 1038
Loc: The Bayards
The first pitch of Beyond Good and Evil goes at 9ish I think (but I don't have a guidebook with me) and a very exciting first forty, maybe fifty, it is.

As with Midnight Cowboy I'll refrain from detailing why to avoid spoiling anyone's "fun".


Edited by Kent (04/09/07 07:09 PM)

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#28171 - 04/09/07 06:57 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Kent]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
yea i persoally think after that first hard move on maria direct it s fairly straightfoward to get to an established rest. Fun yes. 'excitingly scary' not really
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#28173 - 04/09/07 08:31 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Kent]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
Maybe I have a different notion of "exiting." I don't think it necessarily means risky, dangerous, or with potential groundfall (I'd just call that scary). So with that proviso in mind ...

I really love p2 of Keep On Struttin'. A good roof to a rest at a bolt, then a tricky move up to a horizontal and go-go-go traverse and pull through the notch--it really doesn't let up. Good moves, good exposure, good sustained climbing, packs a lot into a pitch that's only 50 feet but sure feels a lot longer!

I've heard Traverse of the Clods has a high pucker factor, and it's a 9 in the new book. Thoughts?

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#28175 - 04/09/07 08:36 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Daniel]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
 Quote:
I've heard Traverse of the Clods has a high pucker factor, and it's a 9 in the new book. Thoughts?


I thought it was always a nine.

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#28176 - 04/09/07 08:56 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: dalguard]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
 Originally Posted By: dalguard
 Quote:
I've heard Traverse of the Clods has a high pucker factor, and it's a 9 in the new book. Thoughts?


I thought it was always a nine.


5.8 in Swain, 5.8 in the Williams Select, 5.9 in the gray Dick.

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