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#28269 - 04/13/07 04:05 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Chas]
rg@ofmc Offline

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Back in the day, everyone did the Half Moon crack without fancy wide protection, because...there wasn't any. It's less than vertical and you fit in it fer God's sake, you're not gonna fall out. The worst that could happen, if your OW technique is super bad (and it would really have to be bad in this case, the pitch is pretty elementary), is that you won't be able to progress and will have to slide slowly back down to the start with your abraded tail between your legs.

Just do it.

#28272 - 04/13/07 04:36 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: rg@ofmc]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2954
Loc: LI, NY
rg, you walked to school up hill in both directions, didnt you...

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

#28273 - 04/13/07 05:06 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: ajax]
OldEric Online   content

Registered: 05/20/02
Posts: 48
 Originally Posted By: ajax
When we did the FFA Bragg lead the Half Moon, so no pucker factor for me. I am not a big fan of using cracks to scape skin off my body futher up or down than my hands and forearms.
These days when I repeat Vertigo,I start up the Half Moon Crack about 8 feet up (there used to be a fixed pin here) I step blindly left a few feet and there is an awesome 9 or so fingercrack that is a wonderful alternative especially for wide crack non-lovers.

Ajax - you do remember what happened to Steve Hendricks on it don't you?

#28274 - 04/13/07 05:38 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: OldEric]
Frank Florence Offline

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
g, you walked to school up hill in both directions, didnt you...

I'm firmly with RG on this one. The Half Moon OW might be frustrating, but it's not the "exciting" adventure as some of the Gunks 5.9s mentioned previously. Sliding back down a wide crack is nothing like popping of of Wild Horses with nothing but some tiny RPs below your feet.

I haven't even tried Midnight Cowboy or Land's End, but what I've heard makes the zing in them sound louder by far than Vertigo.

#28276 - 04/13/07 05:50 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: OldEric]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: OldEric
Ajax - you do remember what happened to Steve Hendricks on it don't you?

Tell us! Tell us!
- Marc

#28277 - 04/13/07 06:17 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: MarcC]
GOclimb Online   content

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Hey RG - that makes sense, except for the exit move. If you get pumped like crazy on the OW, and then blow it in the exit move... it's a long ride.

You may not know it, but you're talking to someone who actually *likes* small offwidths, 'cause he can shuffle a cam up above him and stay on toprope all the time. I'm a pussy!


#28290 - 04/15/07 11:42 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: GOclimb]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
I would agree with the crux pitch on Keep On Struttin.

Then there is Proctor Silex. One of my favorite 5.9's in the Gunks although I would not necessarily recommend it for the 5.9 leader.

Insulation just step, fun and exciting.

Comando Rave is very exciting and pumpy if you waste any time.

If you believe the 5.9+ on Beatle Brow Bulge then I does not get much more exciting than this although I would give this a 5.10.

The roof on Grim Ace Face although not 30 feet is not over immeditatly after the roof as there is some more climbing.

I also agree with Lands End as there really is not much time to relax on that one.

If you want some excitment and good climbing try the arch pitch on Elder Cleavage, but be carful with the gear.

I did not find Honky Tonk Woman all that exciting, just dangerous and uninteresting as previously stated.

Maria Direct on the other hand is a G rated boulder problem with the pin easily being backed up, you can get a good nut or red tricam in the v-shaped vertical crack and a bomber red camalot at the top of the crack in a horizontal pod.

#28294 - 04/16/07 02:00 AM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Coppertone]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Does the climbing have to be hard to be exciting? The second pitch of Le Teton after the initial moves off the deck and out to the arete (which are, I think, what spurred this thread) are not too hard, but they are darn exciting!
Gunks T-Shirts!

#28307 - 04/16/07 07:57 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: Aya]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
We're dealing with semantics here, I'd say. My point was that Le Teton was wildly exposed, pumpy, and just flat-out FUN! It was one of those perma-grin kinda climbs, where you finish with tha big smile that doesn't go away for a while. When I topped out, my friend who led it still had that smile on HIS face. A VERY ENJOYABLE 40 feet. How's that?
we're all living proof that nothing lasts

#28324 - 04/17/07 05:49 PM Re: Most Exciting 40 feet of 5.9 [Re: GOclimb]
edpav Offline

Registered: 02/09/06
Posts: 22
Loc: Mass
 Originally Posted By: GOclimb
 Originally Posted By: Rosceaux
has anyone led Half-Moon Crack on Vertigo at Cannon?

I was hoping to get on it this season. My largest piece is a #4 Camalot. Anyone know - will I be hating life if I don't scrounge up a #5 or bigger, or if I did get the piece would it only [/B]turn a 40 foot runout into a 39 foot runout?[/B]


You've got it exactly! I drug my Yates #7 Big Dude (7") all the way up, and found it served as a backup to the pin at the start of the crack. Need a #3 BigBro - better to just go.

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