I was just thinking how delighted I would be to climb 1000+ feet of 5.3 in a day. I know I am lame because I would even be interested in something like this. I accept that. No need to comment on it. Any ideas for this? that doesn't involve flying outside of the boundaries of the US and doesn't involved two days of approach?

I was thinking the CMC Route on Mount Moran would probably approximate it.

Any other ideas?

You should be able to find something on the Flatirons or RMNP.

One example in the park:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/colorado/alpine_rock/rmnp__rock/105760698

Some stuff in the Sierra's, maybe Bear Creek Spire ? I'd need to check the Kroft guide to jog my memory. Perhaps others with more experience in the Sierra's have some suggestions.

Tim S

East Face of Teewinot, Owen Spaulding route on the Grand (one well-protected 5.4 move) are a couple. Though the CMC Route is a great choice, because the bivy setting is awesome, the approach way cool (via canoe), the sheer size of Moran is awe-inspiring, and the crowds are low. Heading back to Moran (and other Tetons objectives) myself in July if all goes well!

Bugaboos
West Ridge of Pigeon Spire

Perhaps the ultimate Dillquest: the long friction routes of the Flatirons above Boulder. Perhaps the most renowned (and longest) of these is the East Face of the Third Flatiron, but some of the shorter, less traveled ones like Seal Rock are great, too.

No Question hands down super easy super long rock routes in the 5.2 -5.6 range = High Sierra

(some of the 5.5 and 5.6 climbs only have 1 or 2 pitches of climbing at that grade and the rest all 5.4 and under, and besides its alpine 5.6 which is like what? 5.1??? )

Of course you might know the details if I were to return your High Sierra guide book sitting on my s"h"elf…

You really think he wants it after it's been sitting there for so long...? ewww...!

So, I greatly appreciate the specific route ideas. That's what I'm really looking for.

I haven't done that route myself, but it sounds like mostly scrambling with a short bit of technical climbing. This would be one to do because one wants to climb Long's, more than because one wants 1000 feet of 5.3. The fact that it's preceded by a fairly long hike in might also take it out of the running. I think the standard route of the First Flatiron is definitely a good route for the "1000 ft of 5.3" purpose, although the 1st pitch is generally called 5.6, more for the lack of gear than the difficulty of the climbing. The 3rd Flatiron is closed so many months of the year, I actually haven't got on it yet (closed Feb through Aug). The other thing going for the Flatirons is that they're near lots of other "harder" climbing that doesn't necessarily require a huge walk-in to get to it, or on the flip side, lots of cool backcountry (but still easy) routes that do require big hikes.

Also, I think 1000 ft of 5.3 is a perfectly noble goal. It's nice to climb when you can just go without worrying about scaring yourself to death, and can enjoy the scenery!

-Carissa