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#29225 - 05/16/07 02:15 AM buying small cams
learningtolead Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/16/02
Posts: 981
Loc: a wanna be kerhonkson-er
so if i were to replace all the small cams on my rack with one of the crappy designs that's made by a company that i can actually trust to do reasonable quality control, what should i buy? i dont like the over engineering and plasticky stiffness of the new BD small cams and i used to have metolius 4cus that i sold because they were crappy and too wide. perhaps the metolius c3s?

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#29231 - 05/16/07 10:18 AM Re: buying small cams [Re: learningtolead]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Sure, why not?
I really like the new ultralight ones. I'm trying to get rid of my set of old ones so I can justify replacing them with ultralight versions. But it's like anything. Someone else is going to pipe up that they hate them...
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#29232 - 05/16/07 10:24 AM Re: buying small cams [Re: Aya]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1220
wild country zeros
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#29233 - 05/16/07 10:44 AM Re: buying small cams [Re: talus]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4237
The zero has many of the design features that people love so much about their POS aliens, flexibility all the way to the cams, yadayadayada. Having said that, the yellow zero (which is the equivalent of the blue alien) is rated to 6kN whereas the same size alien was rated to 8kN (although it only holds 900 pounds in reality).

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#29236 - 05/16/07 12:03 PM Re: buying small cams [Re: strat]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2941
Loc: LI, NY
sam, care to share what happened with your 6kN zero?
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#29237 - 05/16/07 12:36 PM Re: buying small cams [Re: learningtolead]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1760
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
I've always liked the Metolius TCUs.

I think having three cams instead of four makes them a lot more useful in the often oddly-shaped placements I encounter.
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#29240 - 05/16/07 01:15 PM Re: buying small cams [Re: empicard]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4237
 Originally Posted By: empicard
sam, care to share what happened with your 6kN zero?


I have shared that story in the past, several times.

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#29244 - 05/16/07 02:57 PM Re: buying small cams [Re: strat]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3416
Loc: pdx
 Originally Posted By: strat
 Originally Posted By: empicard
sam, care to share what happened with your 6kN zero?


I have shared that story in the past, several times.


I'll share what I remember of it: p i e c e s.

Ie, it broke. 6kn + ~100kg climber = dead cam

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#29245 - 05/16/07 02:59 PM Re: buying small cams [Re: crackers]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4237
It didn't break.

It was not the right cam for the application. Entirely pilot error. Thirteen other pieces of gear could have gone there.

Heavy climber, fat rope, low amount of rope out, PERFECT cam placement, it pulled out.

Actually it was RAF's yellow zero.

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#29247 - 05/16/07 03:39 PM Re: buying small cams [Re: strat]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3416
Loc: pdx
I thought you trashed one...

EDIT: I was reminded of who broke it. It wasn't Strat.


Edited by crackers (05/16/07 07:28 PM)
Edit Reason: gosh darn cam breakers from Poland...

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