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#29394 - 05/21/07 06:15 PM MA Access Success
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
Just came across this today. It's dated 5/15/07, so it's somewhat "breaking" news:

http://accessfund.org/regions/news/MA

Excerpt:

Farley is home to five-star trad climbing, sport climbing, ice climbing, bouldering and top roping. Only 1.5 hours from downtown Boston, the crag features superb rock quality—comparable to English grit in its best moments—and offers the only true multi-pitch experience in MA.

Farley—often billed as the best crag between the ‘Gunks and Rumney—is virtually unknown.
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#29430 - 05/23/07 01:38 AM Re: MA Access Success [Re: nerdom]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Good on them! Also of note was the covert removal and/or damaging of 50 bolts and some 15 anchors at the crag this spring. I don't know the area and whether the bolts are convenience or absolute neccessity.

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#29433 - 05/23/07 02:01 PM Re: MA Access Success [Re: chip]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
I know there's been some problems with one Ken Nichols at certain MA crags; a temporary restraining order was actually issued for him. But I don't know that it was at this cliff, and I'm not saying it was him. But it is absolutely his m.o.
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#29489 - 05/24/07 09:44 PM Re: MA Access Success [Re: nerdom]
Dizzy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 2177
Loc: Berkshires, MA and Ahlington, ...
 Originally Posted By: nerdom
I know there's been some problems with one Ken Nichols at certain MA crags; a temporary restraining order was actually issued for him. But I don't know that it was at this cliff, and I'm not saying it was him. But it is absolutely his m.o.

Yes, it is widely believed that Ken struck again. He has also removed other bolts at some really obscure crags in the area.

Dizz
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#29499 - 05/25/07 12:03 PM Re: MA Access Success [Re: Dizzy]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2955
Loc: LI, NY
what a douche.
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#29657 - 06/01/07 04:33 PM Re: MA Access Success [Re: Dizzy]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: Dizzy
 Originally Posted By: nerdom
I know there's been some problems with one Ken Nichols at certain MA crags; a temporary restraining order was actually issued for him. But I don't know that it was at this cliff, and I'm not saying it was him. But it is absolutely his m.o.

Yes, it is widely believed that Ken struck again. He has also removed other bolts at some really obscure crags in the area.

Dizz

Apparently, it's more than just "widely believed". Yesterday, Ken Nichols had an initial hearing on charges of trespass and malicious destruction of property. Formal arraignment is scheduled for Monday, 2 July.
http://www.stopken.org/Breaking%20News.html
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#29706 - 06/04/07 07:02 PM Re: MA Access Success [Re: MarcC]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
wow, that's quite a site! Good on Mr. Sullivan for his efforts. While I support an anti-bolting ethic for established trad areas, I can't condone Nichols' tactics. Particularly since, if what I hear is correct, he had the benefit of leading many of the lines he's chopped, whilst the bolts were still in place. Pretty hypocritical if you ask me.
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#29707 - 06/04/07 07:19 PM Re: MA Access Success [Re: nerdom]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
I don't believe Ken clips the bolts while he's leading.

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#29716 - 06/04/07 08:29 PM Re: MA Access Success [Re: nerdom]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: nerdom
wow, that's quite a site! Good on Mr. Sullivan for his efforts.

It now appears Mr. Sullivan has taken down the "Breaking News" page for some reason.
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#29731 - 06/04/07 10:35 PM Re: MA Access Success [Re: MarcC]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
If you want hypocrisy, try this on for size:

Of course, we're used to this kind of hand-wringing in the sport of rock climbing, where two factions have been battling for decades over the issue of bolting, a common practice in which bolts are drilled into the rock to serve as permanent protection. Of course, we're not used to seeing the battle rage so fervently in the mind of one individual. Meet Ken Nichols, who's working toward a new, cleaner brand of climbing. The longtime king of bolting on the East Coast and author of the popular Traprock: Rock Climbing in Central Connecticut, Nichols put up many of the most popular routes in the 1970s and later mapped them. But recently Nichols was overcome by guilt. In a Dr. Frankenstein God-what-have-I-done moment, his self-loathing brought him to a kind of conversion. Again, technology is the evil genie that must be rebottled. The new method: Nichols no longer clips in to the bolts. Instead, he simply tosses a skyhook onto a ledge above him and starts climbing, hoping the hook will hold if he takes a fall. As he moves upward, he chops at the same bolts he once installed, a practice that can often leave a different kind of blight-golf-ball-size pock marks in the stone. Meanwhile, in what is becoming a serious problem, local climbers are still using his book. And they're finding out well above terra firma that his life-supporting bolts are no more.

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