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#3073 - 09/09/01 04:18 AM Pete's Farewell
ktclimb Offline
addict

Registered: 05/15/00
Posts: 691
Loc: Adirondacks
Just led this climb on friday at Cascade Lake(Cliffs) in the Daks-what a fun climb!!!! The business was really the third pitch. It is a crack that had three funky moves to a fun fun layback, and then it just eases up to this last funny chimney move at the top. My first lead at the daks:)))))) I was just wondering who else has done that climb, or any climbs at the Cascade Lake/Cliff area. I am psyched to be doing crack climbing in the Daks, because my crack technique needs a lot of work. It is also cool that there are some climbers at Paul Smiths, so when I can, I can get out to climb........Kev, that wasn't you that was there Friday afternoon was it? Someone from Clarkson was talking to one of the guys I was climbing with, and I was wondering if it was you........



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#3074 - 09/10/01 12:36 AM Re: Pete's Farewell [Re: ktclimb]
Anonymous
Unregistered


congrats on your first dack leading experience! pete's farewell is a fun climb, albeit a crowded one sometimes. i don't remember any chimney moves at the top though, maybe that's just a different way to finish. the el is another route there that you could probably lead, it's 5.7+-5.8 with good pro. on the far left end there are some .10's and i think one .11. kevin boyle probably knows better than i do. anyways, roaches on the wall is a fun .10 to do, if you can't lead it then you can just toprope it off the bolt anchors.

mark


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#3075 - 09/10/01 06:40 AM Re: Pete's Farewell
tokyo bill Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/24/00
Posts: 793
Loc: Tokyo
Second the vote for The El - major fun. You'll love the traverse out, around the corner and into the unknown on pitch two.

Pete's was one of my early gear leads as well (career early, not just 'dacks early), but I must have been on total adrenaline overload, because I can't really remember much about it. Wonder if I wrote it up in my log...

In any event, nice going! And there's plenty more up there to enjoy!

Three weeks to Yosemite - oooowheee!


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#3076 - 09/10/01 02:46 PM Re: Pete's Farewell [Re: tokyo bill]
ktclimb Offline
addict

Registered: 05/15/00
Posts: 691
Loc: Adirondacks
thanks. I want to get back there maybe this Friday if I can. I am psyched to be doing any climbing at all! I thought being at school would mean no more climbing for two years, but I am finding that there are climbers here on campus, and it does wonders for my mental health to get out just for a few hours. What are you planning on doing at Yosemite??????


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#3077 - 09/11/01 02:59 AM Re: Pete's Farewell [Re: ktclimb]
tokyo bill Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/24/00
Posts: 793
Loc: Tokyo
Hmmm... I'm looking for free routes only, since I have yet to try any aid, and I love long moderates. This is my first trip out there, and so far, in my dreams, it looks like this:

Day One: Daff Dome, West Crack
Day Two: Fairview Dome, Regular Route
Day Three: Rest, maybe some short stuff, and walk in to bivy below Snake Dike
Day Four: Snake Dike
Day Five: Short stuff / rest
Day Six: East Butt of Middle Cathedral or East Butt of El Cap.
Day Seven: Short stuff (or maybe Braille Book?)

Needless to say, I have no idea how it'll work in reality. Yosemite climbing has a reputation for being hard for the grade - I may not even be able to get off the ground! The weather gods may also have something to say about it.

First trip back to the States in two years. Can't wait!

I said it once before in another post, but I'll say it again - anyone gonna be in NYC (Manhattan) either Sept 23 - 29 or Oct 10-14? I'll be looking to pull some plastic (especially that first time period - preparatory to heading to Cali), and I'll buy the first round!

A number of folks from the site responded to my earlier post, mostly suggesting a day at the gunks. Thanks all! Unfortunately, I don't think my family obligations will allow it, since my wife has already authorized the Yosemite trip. Asking for more would be just plain greedy! But a gym session or two will definitely be doable.

Have fun in the 'dacks, kt! And by the way - stick with the climbing. The only thing that got me through law school was training and bike racing on the weekends. It's hard to stay focused on school if you're losing your marbles, so make sure the stress relievers are in place. They're just as important as the book time.

Edited by tokyo bill on 09/10/01 11:05 PM (server time).


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#3078 - 09/11/01 04:28 PM Re: Pete's Farewell [Re: tokyo bill]
ktclimb Offline
addict

Registered: 05/15/00
Posts: 691
Loc: Adirondacks
tokyo bill: sounds cool to me. course I am an aid freak now, so that is all I dream about when I think of yosemite. You may want to check into where you will be in manhattan, considering what is going on today......unfuckingbelievable.


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