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#30753 - 07/02/07 07:46 PM A cliff of our own
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
We passed on the Sunday crowds and had Millbrook all to ourselves.

Todd following Coppertone on Cruise Control.


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#30754 - 07/02/07 09:14 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: rg@ofmc]
BillH Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/16/06
Posts: 59
Loc: Maryland
Nice photo. I am thinking you rappelled dwonto take it?
_________________________
Bill Hutchins
Hutbill@comcast.net
http://www.reliclife.blogspot.com

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#30755 - 07/02/07 09:56 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: BillH]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
How did you guess?

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#30756 - 07/02/07 10:21 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: rg@ofmc]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4237
It's not surprising you were alone. Isn't Millbrook like a 7 hour walk from the nearest road? And, isn't it all death blocks stacked on top of each other? Don't you have to walk a boot width ledge on a vertical face to get to the climbs? It's a scary scary place.

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#30757 - 07/02/07 11:39 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: strat]
caver Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 260
Loc: High Falls
You said it Strat!
No good reason to go there!
\:\)

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#30758 - 07/02/07 11:46 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: rg@ofmc]
alicex4 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/05/00
Posts: 3399
Sweet!

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#30759 - 07/03/07 12:37 AM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: rg@ofmc]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1014
Loc: Newtown, CT
Damn if I knew it was that exposed I wouldn't have led it. A fun day was had by all. Even the chiggers which I am feeling right about now.

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#30760 - 07/03/07 12:53 AM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: Coppertone]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2554
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
That's right, Millbrook is the chigger capital of North America. I not only got bit all across my chest and back of knees when I was there, but got the crap scared out of me by the black bear we met on the way. He didn't like us eating any of his blueberries.

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#30761 - 07/03/07 01:55 AM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: rg@ofmc]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3134
Loc: in your backyard
sweet photo RG.

Ya you were all alone since it's like almost a whole 2 mile hike to get there no? ;\)

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#30763 - 07/03/07 02:16 AM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: Smike]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY

Two miles? No, no---see Strat's post for accurate beta.

As for the chiggers, I sprayed both legs (right up to the, ahem, underpant line) with DEET and not even a nibble. And sans DEET, I got murdered at the Trapps a week earlier; I stopped counting around thirty bites.

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#30765 - 07/03/07 02:54 AM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: chip]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2326
Loc: Boston
Nice pic, thanks for sharing!

Interestingly, I was in North Conway on Sunday. As had been forecast, it was a crystaline cool summer day. Probably the best conditions the summer will offer to climb on the South Buttress of Whitehorse. Yet we saw not a soul on the whole South Buttress all day long! Hotter Than Hell/Inferno? Nope. Atlantis, Children's Crusade, Loose Lips, Seventh Seal? Nope, to all.

We did Lost Souls. I highly recommend it. Here's me past the roofs, working on tricky 10a face climbing.


Photo by Larry Hamilton

GO

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#30773 - 07/03/07 01:32 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: GOclimb]
BillH Offline
journeyman

Registered: 11/16/06
Posts: 59
Loc: Maryland
Aha! Those bites I got last week in the Trapps were chiggers, huh? Live and learn. DEET next time.

Cathedral Ledge was not empty last weekend. There were quite a few folks enjoying the day. My daughter and I were both in NH visiting my Mom and my sister's family, so we thought we would do Thin Air. Found a party of four starting up as we got there so we moved over and did Standard. As GO says, the weather was perfect! Cave wall stumped me for a bit. I wound up chimneying up the back of the cave. Not pretty, but we got up.

Someone had a bright red portaledge hung near the top of the wall just left (south) of the Thin Air face. I had never seen one deployed before. Looks like there is some awsome climbing over there. Cetrtainly way harder than I will ever do.

Bill
_________________________
Bill Hutchins
Hutbill@comcast.net
http://www.reliclife.blogspot.com

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#30776 - 07/03/07 02:11 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: BillH]
nerdom Offline
Pooh-Bah *

Registered: 09/07/01
Posts: 2483
Loc: Davis Sq., MA
aw, since we're sharing photos, here's my friend Scottie following the Ragged Mountain classic YMC (5.9) the weekend before this past one.

Negotiating the crux:


Past the crux in the steep corner:
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we're all living proof that nothing lasts

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#30796 - 07/04/07 03:19 AM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: rg@ofmc]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1511
Well, it's not the seclusion of Millbrook, but ...

I was at the Trapps today and from 10:30 to 3:30 there was nobody else (aside from my partner) at the Arrow wall. Nobody.

Then we went over to Ant's Line/Bonnie's, and though we ran into other people, we still got on both when we wanted to.

Where was everyone? I guess the day before a midweek holiday is the time to go!

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#30798 - 07/04/07 04:28 AM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: rg@ofmc]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Picaridin's been working for me ok, and not greasy like DEET. YMMV though.

I was up in the Dacks; we ran into several parties at the roadside Jewels and Gems wall on Sunday morning, which was to be expected, but we definitely did NOT expect to see any other parties on a cold (in the 40s!) Monday morning at the Barkeater Cliffs (they are a bit of a hike (albeit flat) in). Go figure. Hey, at least we had a beautiful day and got in a ton of climbing.
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#30806 - 07/04/07 07:47 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: Aya]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 515
Loc: Watertown or Bend
The peregrine closures in the Dacks this time of year tend to lead to greater use of the easily accesible crags in th Keene Valley area. Consider following RG's example from the Gunks and go exploring some of the less frequented places listed in Mellor's guide. Good Luck Cliffs was empty when we were there a week ago and I've twice climbed at Noonmark (once over the 4th) where we were the only party.

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#30861 - 07/06/07 08:46 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: BillH]
climbEEr Offline
member

Registered: 03/10/04
Posts: 110
Loc: Boston, MA
Having Just moved to Boston, you can get Cathedral all to yourself if you head up early, like ahhem 7AM. I would highly recommend The Book 5.9+ if you're looking for a stellar route.

As for the big red porteldge that was/is Jay Conway, local Hardman.

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#30868 - 07/07/07 11:01 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: climbEEr]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
I've been in the Daks the last 6 days and we barely saw a soul anywhere on any day.

I don't think DEET helps with chiggers unless you spray it on your underwear in the morning while getting dressed.

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#30870 - 07/07/07 11:11 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: dalguard]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1014
Loc: Newtown, CT
 Originally Posted By: dalguard
I've been in the Daks the last 6 days and we barely saw a soul anywhere on any day.

I don't think DEET helps with chiggers unless you spray it on your underwear in the morning while getting dressed.


Maybe I'll pour some Deet in my washing machine beofore heading out next time. Couldn't hurt.

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#30871 - 07/08/07 12:41 AM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: dalguard]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: dalguard
I don't think DEET helps with chiggers unless you spray it on your underwear in the morning while getting dressed.

Chiggers head to the elastic(or fabric)-constriction/flesh interface, wherever it may be - sock line, panty line, harness waistband, etc.
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#30951 - 07/10/07 04:36 AM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: MarcC]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
 Originally Posted By: dalguard
I don't think DEET helps with chiggers unless you spray it on your underwear in the morning while getting dressed.


As I said, I spray it on my legs up to the underpant line (usually when I get to the base of the first climb of the day). This is when I am wearing shorts, by the way. It works for sure.

The DEET has to go at possible entry points, not on your underwear. (For example, the week before when I forgot to DEETify, I got bites at the back of my knees as well as at the underpant/harness lines.) If you are going to lie down in the grass, you'll need it on your upper body too.

I've been told that Flowers of Sulphur, a sulphur powder obtainable from pharmacies, also repels chiggers. Instead of the chemical DEET smell, your usual cologne will be enhanced with the delicate odor of rotten eggs.

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#30962 - 07/10/07 02:08 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: rg@ofmc]
quanto_the_mad Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2606
Loc: brooklyn
I was using cutter advanced with picaridin. I sprayed my legs but missed the back of one... and got a bite right there. Didn't spray my waist and got a few bites all around. So it seems like it works, maybe next week I'll just spray half my body and see what happens.
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"Be ot or bot ne ot, tath is the nestquoi." Thamle, by Malliwi Rapesheake

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#30966 - 07/10/07 03:23 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: quanto_the_mad]
mworking Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/26/04
Posts: 761
I am surprised no-one is concerned with frequent application of Deet on themselves. I remember at least some higher strength formulas instruct you not to do this.

Low strength under 6%
High strength 12% up to app 25%

Just wondering. I realize the alternative of getting bitten isn't pleasant.

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#30969 - 07/10/07 03:48 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: mworking]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
There are also quite a few products with concentrations of 100%. From the Wikipedia entry for deet:
 Quote:
Concentrations
DEET is often sold and used in concentrations up to 100%. Consumer Reports found a direct correlation between DEET concentration and hours of protection against insect bites. 100% DEET was found to offer up to 12 hours of protection while several lower concentration DEET formulations (20%-34%) offered 3-6 hours of protection.

Effects on health

DEET is the most common active ingredient in insect repellents. Studies into the health effects of using DEET in the approved way (as a topical application) have not shown any significant harm to human health; exposure to large amounts (by means such as accidental ingestion) has similar effects to comparable exposure to other pesticides.[citation needed] As DEET is a powerful pesticide, however, manufacturers of DEET based products advise they should not be used under clothing, on damaged skin, and that the DEET based preparation be washed off after it is no longer needed or between applications.[1] In rare cases, it may cause skin reactions.[1]

Recent studies by Duke University researchers have found that "laboratory rats treated with an average human dose of DEET (40 mg/kg body weight) performed far worse when challenged with physical tasks requiring muscle control, strength and coordination. These findings are consistent with reported human symptoms following DEET's use by the military in the Persian Gulf War." [2] Duke Pharmacologist Mohamed Abou-Donia, PhD, has said that the results of this study warrant further testing and he has warned the public to use insecticides containing DEET sparingly and infrequently.[2]

Some newer repellents offer alternatives to DEET. Repellents containing picaridin or lemon eucalyptus oil were reported by Consumer Reports to be about as effective as repellents containing DEET,[3] though medical studies have differed on the effectiveness of alternatives. A number of tests have shown DEET to be the most effective and longest-lasting insect repellent available.[4]

The American Academy of Pediatrics found no difference in safety for children, between products containing 10% and 30% DEET, when used as directed, but recommends that DEET not be used on infants less than two months old.

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- Marc

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#30970 - 07/10/07 03:58 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: MarcC]
quanto_the_mad Online   content
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2606
Loc: brooklyn
Picaridin seems to work really well, although I haven't been out in full blackfly season. It doesn't eat plastic which is the big bonus, I don't mind that it doesn't last as long since I'm not worried about melting things when I reapply it.

I've tried other products, eucalyptus oil made me smell nice but didn't work more than 30 minutes. Other products were near worthless... well at least in the woods, they may work fine sitting on the back porch in the suburbs.
_________________________
"Be ot or bot ne ot, tath is the nestquoi." Thamle, by Malliwi Rapesheake

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#30991 - 07/10/07 08:19 PM Re: A cliff of our own [Re: quanto_the_mad]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1014
Loc: Newtown, CT
 Originally Posted By: quanto_the_mad
Picaridin seems to work really well, although I haven't been out in full blackfly season. It doesn't eat plastic which is the big bonus, I don't mind that it doesn't last as long since I'm not worried about melting things when I reapply it.

I've tried other products, eucalyptus oil made me smell nice but didn't work more than 30 minutes. Other products were near worthless... well at least in the woods, they may work fine sitting on the back porch in the suburbs.


If you have kids be careful with the Picaridin and Eucalyptus oil as both are not supposed to used on children.

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