Esteemed Gunkies,

I have a friend who is ready to experience the sharp end on a gunks moderate on my preplaced gear. I am looking for the route that best achieves the following:

Is a 5.5 or less.

Has very good gear off the ground or belay ledge (ie no possiblity of decking at the second piece...)

Does not wander (minimal traversing, no rope drag issues..)

Has a rap anchor at the top of the pitch with a good stance for first time belayer from top of route.

I had a few more considerations that seem to escape me. So does anyone have an opinion of the best gunks moderate to "sportify"?

Thanks.

Jeff

Three Pines

fingerlocks

bunny

Jackie
Fingerlocks

Possibly Horseman? As for traversing/rope drag, isn't that something you could address while preplacing the gear (i.e., long sling(s)in corner, etc.)?

Not sure what you mean by "first time belayer from top of route." I hope this means first time belaying from the top of the route, and not first time belaying at all.

Assuming the former, the ledge at the top of pitch 1 of Horseman isn't ideal for the first time "top-belayer," although it's not terrible. You might also consider leading the second pitch of various climbs (including Horseman), then rapping/lowering down to the belay ledge so that your friend could lead back up on your pre-placed gear.

How about take him to Rumney?

What is the objective here... to train for a trip to Rumney? Why would you want to "sportify" a Gunks route? Why not throw him on TR and let him do a mock lead and then go back and review the placements. Not sure what clipping preplaced gear does for your climbing knowledge at the Gunks. As for a suggestion (to stay on topic ) why not Rhododendron... or is it Laurel... the easier of the two right behind the tree. You can place lot of gear, dead straight line, big stance with chains up top,... sportify away!

yeah...what chazman said.

If a person hasn't learned to place gear yet, why would they be considered ready for the sharp end? I always thought the "way" was:
1) following
2) ground school gear placement/review
3) more following
4) development of a severe itch to lead
5) finding someone to hold your rope while you saddle up and ride


Solid gear placement is THE big issue on leading; so much more imperative than being able to clip a biner efficiently.....

Well, assuming one buys into the idea of leading on preplaced gear (It's not the way I would go, but to each....)

The first pitch of Hawk is the best bet. 75' of 5.3 climbing with bomber gear, an absolutely straight line, and a bomber tree on a ledge for a belay + no cummunication issues.

Just not on a busy weekend when the upper pitches are dry :).

Finger Locks is also a good suggestion.

Jackie, Laurel, and Rhododendron are not 5.5 and under, so the folks who suggested those might want to reread the original post.

Horseman either has
1) No easy belay stance if done in 2 pitches, or
2) No easy way to communicate if the climb is done in 1 pitch.