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#31856 - 08/02/07 05:13 PM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: empicard]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: empicard
cant you do arrow in a big single pitch?

Probably with a 70m; a 60m might be just a little short. Oh, wait...are there rap bolts at the top of Arrow now - so that you don't have to go back to the tree? If so, then a 60 probably would work (and I've seen folks build a gear anchor on the ledge just below the top).
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#31857 - 08/02/07 05:15 PM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: MarcC]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
I've seen people rap to the ground from the top bolts on two 60 m ropes.

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#31860 - 08/02/07 06:23 PM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: empicard]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Since each rap station gets you down on a doubled 60 meter, you can do a single pitch of Arrow to the top. I recently watched a party climb the first pitch and then above the overhang as one, set an anchor to bring up the second, and then a short 60 feet to the top. Very thoughtful way to cover a second who may struggle into the hang.

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#31866 - 08/02/07 07:36 PM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: chip]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I've seen people rap to the ground from the top bolts on two 60 m ropes.

Since each rap station gets you down on a doubled 60 meter, you can do a single pitch of Arrow to the top.


I thought so too, but had to simulclimb up a bit (from the high belay ledge) before the leader was off belay.

It may be that those 60m ropes stretch when you're rapping on them, and the tie-in knots use up some of the available rope when leading.

70m ropes would work though.

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#31867 - 08/02/07 09:14 PM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: rg@ofmc]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
RG? Linking pitches at the Gunks? Wow, which universe is this?

;\)

GO

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#31871 - 08/03/07 02:48 AM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: GOclimb]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
People link pitches on Arrow a lot these days. not me, I have a self preservation instinct / am chickenshit.. but I see it done a lot, particularly by parties with half ropes..

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#31872 - 08/03/07 03:31 AM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: pedestrian]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
RG? Linking pitches at the Gunks? Wow, which universe is this?

The one in which climbers try to snatch one more climb from the jaws of approaching darkness. But yeah, the Arrow in one long pitch is kinda dumb. There is, after all, a giant ledge there.

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#31873 - 08/03/07 03:35 AM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: pedestrian]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Rich are you calling me kinda dumb. I love climbing Arrow in one long pitch. I have 60M doulbes and it just reaches. The decision to climb it and other climbs in one long pitch is a group decision and one that is made based on our abilities and the desire to get in a nice long 200 foot pitch. Climbing Arrow in one long pitch would not be the cause of the accident be discussed as the injury did not occur on the first pitch, but the second pitch. Just about everyone climb from the GT up to the bolt anchors at the top so there really would be no difference with respect to the injured climber if this climb was done in one or two pitches. Regardless I hope the injured party is ok and makes a speedy recovery.

When climbing long pitches that have hard moves down low it is pretty easy to eliminate the risk of decking. Before climbing the second should crouch down and then as they stand up have the belayer take in the slack thereby removing some of the rope stretch. Do this several times and you significantly reduce your chance of a ledge fall by the second.


Edited by Coppertone (08/03/07 03:38 AM)

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#31882 - 08/03/07 11:40 AM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: Coppertone]
Terrie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/14/04
Posts: 247
The accident on Arrow DID occur at the start of pitch 2.

Does that 'take out the slack' squats thing really remove a few feet? Because I can tell you that I've begged my leader more than once to "Give me the Jenny Craig belay"(a/k/a taking a little weight off - credit: Raleigh Collins).

I don't know if I am humble enough to be seen doing what will look like exercises from the 1950's at the base or mid route at the Gunks.....(Much cooler to yell "Hey - Jenny!" since most my partners have heard the story).

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#31911 - 08/04/07 01:15 AM Re: Weekend Accident Report... [Re: Terrie]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
Squating down a few times and taking in the slack absolutely takes a few feet out of the stretch. We do it all the time on hard TR's where there are tough moves right off of the deck.

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