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#31688 - 07/31/07 01:45 AM Small gear
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3628
Loc: Ulster County, NY
What's the smallest piece of gear you repeatedly whipped on? I don't mean oozed onto, or hung on...I mean full on air time, screaming for your belayer to watch you, hearing the rope zip through the carabiners as you fall past it. I've fallen, or rather oozed onto the black Alien once or twice, but last week taking repeayed whips off the second pitch crux of Feast of Fools on a #4 stopper wins the prize for me. Don;t worry, it was backed up by a #3. Any other stories??

RR

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#31689 - 07/31/07 01:52 AM Re: Small gear [Re: RangerRob]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3416
Loc: pdx
black alien, 00 tcu and #3 brassie.

that was when i weighed 150.

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#31697 - 07/31/07 03:15 AM Re: Small gear [Re: RangerRob]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1014
Loc: Newtown, CT
Yellow HB brass offset whatever number that is.

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#31713 - 07/31/07 02:16 PM Re: Small gear [Re: Coppertone]
Chas Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1748
Loc: Flagstaff
blue aliens/ yellow zeros and green C3's (all the same size piece), which is a normal occurance. #4 BD stoppers, a couple routes which I really like only take them (ie: the Adrenaline start to Serenity in Yosemite)

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#31714 - 07/31/07 02:53 PM Re: Small gear [Re: Chas]
d-elvis Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/26/00
Posts: 3650
Loc: Central PA
Sam mentioned RR's small gear ;\)
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#31715 - 07/31/07 03:00 PM Re: Small gear [Re: d-elvis]
TrippleB Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/07/07
Posts: 34
Loc: NY
.1 and.2 BD cams, after 3 falls the .2 cam was not in good shape anymore, the .1 survived a single fall, but the lobes and springs were F'kt up...curious to see if my new c3s can take a little more punishment


...never fallen on my HB offset brassies, but I trust my life to em

in re the post above...i swear by my #4 BD stoppers....keep two on my gunks rack, and sink em quite often.


Edited by TrippleB (07/31/07 03:01 PM)
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TrippleB, because TripleB just doesnt look as cool.


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#31717 - 07/31/07 04:05 PM Re: Small gear [Re: TrippleB]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2326
Loc: Boston
#3 or #4 BD micro-nut (like an RP, but crappier).

GO

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#31718 - 07/31/07 04:20 PM Re: Small gear [Re: TrippleB]
Chas Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1748
Loc: Flagstaff
 Originally Posted By: TrippleB
.1 and.2 BD cams, after 3 falls the .2 cam was not in good shape anymore, the .1 survived a single fall, but the lobes and springs were F'kt up...curious to see if my new c3s can take a little more punishment


...never fallen on my HB offset brassies, but I trust my life to em

in re the post above...i swear by my #4 BD stoppers....keep two on my gunks rack, and sink em quite often.


Interesting. I don't have the 0.1 or 0.2 BD C4's but I take a lot of wingers onto my 0.3 BD's and they don't look any worse for wear...

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#31720 - 07/31/07 04:46 PM Re: Small gear [Re: d-elvis]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4237
 Originally Posted By: d-elvis
Sam mentioned RR's small gear ;\)


Be sure to distinguish between Sam and Samantha in these types of discussions.

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#31738 - 07/31/07 09:01 PM Re: Small gear [Re: strat]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2554
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
"Interesting. I don't have the 0.1 or 0.2 BD C4's but I take a lot of wingers onto my 0.3 BD's and they don't look any worse for wear..."
They aren't making any C4s smaller than .3, instead pointing us toward the C3s. I bent up some of the old version .1 and .2 camalots just hanging on them due to all the bending force transmitted to the end of the metal sleeve over the wire.

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#31741 - 08/01/07 12:08 AM Re: Small gear [Re: RangerRob]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
What's the smallest piece of gear you repeatedly whipped on? I don't mean oozed onto, or hung on...I mean full on air time, ....but last week taking repeayed whips off the second pitch crux of Feast of Fools on a #4 stopper wins the prize for me. Don;t worry, it was backed up by a #3. Any other stories??

Old style Chouinard #4 stopper (which is smaller than the current BD #4 I believe) from the crux of Grand Central.

A short, thin Lost Arrow, tied off half way with 1/2" webbing, after two RURPS blew in succession on some obscure aid line in NH.

35 year old 1/4" button-head with a flexible, homemade aluminum hanger. Although not technically a small piece, it inspired about as much confidence on the way up...and as much terror passing it on the way down. Surprisingly and fortunately, it held, (although the hanger was deformed) and contiuned to hold long enough to lower back to the belay and bail.
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- Marc

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#31748 - 08/01/07 12:00 PM Re: Small gear [Re: MarcC]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2941
Loc: LI, NY
nothin' but a red camalot for me!
(im too chicken shit to climb hard enough to take whips)
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tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#31759 - 08/01/07 03:14 PM Re: Small gear [Re: empicard]
socialist1 Online   content
member

Registered: 08/05/04
Posts: 139
Loc: New Brunswick, NJ
Factor 1 onto a #4 BD stopper... that got my heart going.

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#31760 - 08/01/07 03:23 PM Re: Small gear [Re: socialist1]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
Hmmm... Nine or ten whips onto a Lowe-ball... The middle size one...

Took a large rock and a nut tool to get that puppy out!
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...anethum graveolens cucumis sativus!

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#31762 - 08/01/07 03:37 PM Re: Small gear [Re: Dillbag]
pazreal Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/01/05
Posts: 85
Loc: Salt Lake City, UT
The czech equivelent of the blue alien, it promptly became a non functional unit (broken springs).

Oh and the dumb fall I took while aiding that ripped the smallest brassie only to be caught and weld the next size up. Falling onto your daisy (pilot error) is real nice for the kidneys.

-Arthur

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#31765 - 08/01/07 03:44 PM Re: Small gear [Re: pazreal]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2941
Loc: LI, NY
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARTHURRRRR
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tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#31771 - 08/01/07 04:27 PM Re: Small gear [Re: empicard]
pazreal Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/01/05
Posts: 85
Loc: Salt Lake City, UT
What's the haps brosef, east coast coast treating you well? I've been gettin my a$$ handed to me by these Inland Northwest hardmen that abound left and right out here. Heading to Squamish in a few days to hopefully fall on some smaller gear (not) and to top it off if I have the time hit up a an old Beckey route on the way home with my girlfriend always within sight of course!

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#31785 - 08/01/07 05:53 PM Re: Small gear [Re: pazreal]
browndog2 Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/24/01
Posts: 758
Loc: livin' on the edge
I generally don't fall on small gear. Everybody knows that. Right CB? \:D
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(not that there's anything wrong with that...sorta)

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#31788 - 08/01/07 05:56 PM Re: Small gear [Re: browndog2]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
But BD... What about that time with the cornflower blue sky and you a good 37 feet over that last good placement and a black alien down at your feet... In the middle of the crux...

What about that time?
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...anethum graveolens cucumis sativus!

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#31790 - 08/01/07 06:04 PM Re: Small gear [Re: Dillbag]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2941
Loc: LI, NY
Timmy, I watched you HANG a couple of times up at Acadia on a blue alien I think. I bet i could even find the picture.
oh wait.
my computer aint workin.
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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#31792 - 08/01/07 06:05 PM Re: Small gear [Re: empicard]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
Did you already break the new one?
_________________________
...anethum graveolens cucumis sativus!

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#31795 - 08/01/07 06:17 PM Re: Small gear [Re: RangerRob]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3416
Loc: pdx
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
What's the smallest piece of gear you repeatedly whipped on?


Ask Lawrence (if he's still around) if he's got that old purple metolius TCU that he annilated.

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