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#3185 - 10/17/01 08:29 PM Alopocas Woods, DE
Anonymous
Unregistered


Yes, there is climbing in Delaware. Not very good but it works for us locals! Anyways I would like to get in touch with any other DE locals. Especially the Alopocas woods ones. Most definitely would like to talk to the "locals" who claim to be currently developing the area which is already been developed! I can't wait to talk to the guy who has been emailing info on Alopocas Woods to newenglandbouldering.com because I would like to find out which boulders you are referring to and other info. Thanks

fatkid


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#3186 - 10/18/01 03:28 PM Re: Alopocas Woods, DE
Chooch Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1184
Loc: South East PA
Been there.
Too bad for the no ropes policy. The bolted cliff looked promising.
We found a few lines but maybe we were looking in the wrong place. The area is in the Climb NJ book of all places.
I was more interested in the other park, Rockford? Is that its name.
The info on NE bouldering.com is very old. 3 years?

Did you hear about the fall a few months ago. Kid in a place he shouldnt have been.

Charlie
_________________________
Charlie

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#3187 - 10/18/01 04:55 PM Re: Alopocas Woods, DE [Re: Chooch]
groundhog Offline
member

Registered: 04/19/01
Posts: 137
Loc: southern NJ
Been there too - talk about desperation! Was not aware of a no rope policy - spent an afternoon on one of the cliffs & was never approached by an authoritay figure. There has been a lot of gardening among the boulder faces to the left of the cliffs, & last I was there it was looking good. The Rockford area, by contrast, is quite a party spot, littered with glass. Although the individual faces may be longer, the aesthetics leave something to be desired.


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#3188 - 10/18/01 09:11 PM Re: Alopocas Woods, DE [Re: Chooch]
Anonymous
Unregistered


From my understanding you can climb only the bolted climbs with a rope. Any other type of roped climbing is forbidden. However I am not entirely sure on that, I will check it out as soon as I get a chance.

Rumor has it that a water fall forms in winter and makes decent ice climb? not sure though.

Didn't hear about some kid falling, prolly was one of the pot heads that frequent the park im guessing? They are always walking along the top of the cliff stoned out of their minds.

We got like 50 problems in there now. Its going good, working a guide soon to be out. I try to hit it up at least once a week, once every other week is reality but oh well. Some cool stuff in there. If you want I can get you better directions to the boulders once we get the guide done. I'm going to get something of a guide soon, basically just notes on where the boulders are.

As for the other park its name is Rockford, i still havent gone to it. Everyone tells me Alopocas is way better but I never have the motivation to head into Rockford. Oh well. I'm happy with my Alopocas.

Regardless, if anyone wants info on the area, ask me, I'll try to help.

fatkid


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#3189 - 10/16/04 03:47 AM Re: Alopocas Woods, DE
Anonymous
Unregistered


I'd like to get together and talk to you before you put out your guide book. I know the history of Alapocas pretty well. I started climbing there in '88. A guy named Joe Zubaly (I'm probably butchering the spelling of his last name) was about the strongest climber there up to that point. He was the first one I know of to connect the top and bottom cruxes on what is now called "Joe's Wall." It is the clean steep slabby route that follws the left of two blast lines up the grey face above "Rambo" and "Gray Streak." (They are two routes on the 25' high orange face in the middle section of the park). We agreed that "Gray Streak" went at a thin and balancy 5.8 and that "Rambo" was 5.9. In that same section is "The Ramp" at 5.2, "Knot Roof" is a sandbag at 5.10+, "The Corner" goes at 5.4. We gave "Joe's Wall" a rating of 5.10+ as well, but after thinking back on how much trouble we all had in figuring it out, I think 5.11+ is more accurate (5.12a maybe). The first route I knew of is called "Fertile Crescent." It follows a "C" shaped line on the first wall right of the always wet and severly overhanging wall that is right (downstream) of what you were refering to as the bouldering area. I led it onsite on a Saturday in October '88. I placed two 1/4" bolts on lead (without aid). I have since replaced those with 3/8" stainless. It is also a bit balancy but nothing harder than 5.7. At the top are anchors. If you take the line straight up to these anchors, your are on "Fertile Cresent Direct." The first few moves are 5.9ish, then a couple of thin 5.10+ moves, then you're 15 feet from the top and at an impass (maybe someone will do it at 5.17 someday). To the right of the "Fertile Crescent" wall is "Angie's Wall". Scramble up thirty feet to a tree at the base of the bolted line and belay there. This is probably the second most aesthetic line at Alapocas. I put the bolts in at a height that works well for me. Sorry if you find them a bit high. If the route has been climbed a few times, and the dirt and dust cleaned off the sloper holds, it goes at a stiff 5.9. If you're the first one on it after a winter of seeping and runnoff, it gets pretty scary. I only climbed one line up the big cliff at the downstream end of the park. I followed a line up the middle of the cliff just right of the prow. The route angles up and to the right until you can work back up and slightly left then top out to the right through an open book. The line went at 5.8+ but the protection was X. I placed one lost arrow near the point where you start to angle back up left (that's about 60' off the deck and the first good piece).
Yes, ice forms in the winter. It's gotta be below freezing for at least a week. The huge corner on the right end of the big cliff looks really tempting, but it is black rock and gets hit with the morning sun. All I've ever seen there is manky verglass. Further down to the right, and back in the woods a bit, some sutff forms (20 - 30 feet high).
There's alot more rock out here than just Alapocas and Rockford. Get back to me and we'll go check it out.

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