I'd like to get together and talk to you before you put out your guide book. I know the history of Alapocas pretty well. I started climbing there in '88. A guy named Joe Zubaly (I'm probably butchering the spelling of his last name) was about the strongest climber there up to that point. He was the first one I know of to connect the top and bottom cruxes on what is now called "Joe's Wall." It is the clean steep slabby route that follws the left of two blast lines up the grey face above "Rambo" and "Gray Streak." (They are two routes on the 25' high orange face in the middle section of the park). We agreed that "Gray Streak" went at a thin and balancy 5.8 and that "Rambo" was 5.9. In that same section is "The Ramp" at 5.2, "Knot Roof" is a sandbag at 5.10+, "The Corner" goes at 5.4. We gave "Joe's Wall" a rating of 5.10+ as well, but after thinking back on how much trouble we all had in figuring it out, I think 5.11+ is more accurate (5.12a maybe). The first route I knew of is called "Fertile Crescent." It follows a "C" shaped line on the first wall right of the always wet and severly overhanging wall that is right (downstream) of what you were refering to as the bouldering area. I led it onsite on a Saturday in October '88. I placed two 1/4" bolts on lead (without aid). I have since replaced those with 3/8" stainless. It is also a bit balancy but nothing harder than 5.7. At the top are anchors. If you take the line straight up to these anchors, your are on "Fertile Cresent Direct." The first few moves are 5.9ish, then a couple of thin 5.10+ moves, then you're 15 feet from the top and at an impass (maybe someone will do it at 5.17 someday). To the right of the "Fertile Crescent" wall is "Angie's Wall". Scramble up thirty feet to a tree at the base of the bolted line and belay there. This is probably the second most aesthetic line at Alapocas. I put the bolts in at a height that works well for me. Sorry if you find them a bit high. If the route has been climbed a few times, and the dirt and dust cleaned off the sloper holds, it goes at a stiff 5.9. If you're the first one on it after a winter of seeping and runnoff, it gets pretty scary. I only climbed one line up the big cliff at the downstream end of the park. I followed a line up the middle of the cliff just right of the prow. The route angles up and to the right until you can work back up and slightly left then top out to the right through an open book. The line went at 5.8+ but the protection was X. I placed one lost arrow near the point where you start to angle back up left (that's about 60' off the deck and the first good piece).
Yes, ice forms in the winter. It's gotta be below freezing for at least a week. The huge corner on the right end of the big cliff looks really tempting, but it is black rock and gets hit with the morning sun. All I've ever seen there is manky verglass. Further down to the right, and back in the woods a bit, some sutff forms (20 - 30 feet high).
There's alot more rock out here than just Alapocas and Rockford. Get back to me and we'll go check it out.