Well, it's RIGHT THERE, regardless. Can't really miss it. Across the street from the P.O.

p.s. don't get a breakfast sandwich on a croissant. The croissants are really disappointing.

Funny how I keep saying things there are disappointing but I recommend it. I guess because the stuff that's good is really good and reasonably priced!

And I think Ltl said Lake Placid was nothing special mostly because this is supposedly a climbing trip, and town is worth the special trip to go to the Price Chopper?

There are so many new routes on Poko now. Jim Lawyer's book isn't out yet, but there should be information available at the Mountaineer in Keene. A recent look around suggested to me that there are some fantastic new lines, some all bolts and some mixed bolts and trad.

Some old super classics that have stood the test of time and are good from bottom to top:

1. Freedom Flight 5.10

2. The Great Dihedral 5.9+

3. Gamesmanship 5.8

4. Fastest Gun 5.10

Old classics with terrific pitches but also some rather blah climbing. I wouldn't be surprised if these now have rap anchors at the end of the good stuff

1. The Snatch 5.10

2. Bloody Mary 5.9

3. Paralysis 5.8+ (The blah pitch here is the second traversing pitch) or Sunburst Arete (which climbs directly to the last two pitches of Paralysis).

Don't forget to check the closures. Great Dihedral was closed when I was there. Speaking of which, someone told me the closure at the Gunks had been lifted but I haven't seen it posted here. Has it been?

I guess you go to an Adirondacks where it never rains and every day is perfect.

Socialist, you have ALOT of craggers responding here. Not that there is anything wrong with craggers. They are all advising you on crags that you can essentially dribble out of your car and be at the cliff 25 minutes later. They are giving you good advice on great climbs and I am sure you will happy with them.

You're really missing out if you don't go do something that you have to work to get to. Because, THAT is something that is UNIQUE about the adriondack climbing experience.

Ya go to Poko and do Fastest Gun, and Bloody Mary, Gamesmanship is really good too. If you must do more cragging then go to the Beer walls or Spiders web (Read: STEEP),

BUT...

I'm with Strat on this one, get out in the back country and you will find and experience something that can only be had in the Adirondacks aside from the black mud up to your knees. Avalanche Lake and Wallface could be any place out west 100 miles from anywhere. There is a 5.8 that climbs right out of the north end of Avalanche lake for 3 pitches. Wallface has 1000+ of multi pitch from 5.3 to 5.12. If you don’t have all day then do Noonmark. On a rest day do a slide climb. PM me if you want more info on back country stuff.

Climbing in the Adirondacks is as much about the climbing as it is an adventure as a whole. All too many good fireside stories end up with something about Adirondack unexpected adventures….

Sweet guys! Thanks for the recommendations. Keep them coming!

I definitely appreciate what has been said so far because the amount of stuff to do is truly overwhelming. Right now, I have no idea how we plan to break up the climbing. For sure, we plan to have a few cragging days, a few backcountry-ish days (Wallface, Avalanche Lake, Noonmark), and just explore.

Of course, we are trying to watch for closures. According to here, some of RG's and others recommendations on Poke-O are out.

Whats the story with Moss? Are there tons of new routes there now? It seems like not that many in the guide. Is it climbed out?

In general, how accurate is the guide (Mellor)? Its not the Swain of the Daks is it??

More town recommendations could be nice for off days/nights.


Thanks so much!!

How accurate is the Mellor guide?



Welcome to the adirondack climbing experience.

The Mellor guide "has character" and so will you, after using it.

""Whats the story with Moss? .....Is it climbed out?""

Hahah..well just say that Mellors "Burgundy book of lies" as I like to call it, is by no means a comprehensive document. The book was written when most of this stuff was just starting to get explored. So much is undocumented....and so much can be flat out wrong in the book. (But to me that adds to the spice)

Moss Cliff is a scary place.

Hmm... maybe I shouldnt even ask. It sure does look good from the photos though.

The guy says, "We are basically looking for routes up to mid 11, perferably multi-pitch but some single pitch stuff for more "relaxing" days. I suspect we will mostly want good routes in the 9s and 10s for longer climbs."

And you're sending him to Noonmark?

Oh, and by the way, most of my climbing summers were spent in the backcountry. I've spent alot of time in the Wind Rivers, Colorado Rockies, Tetons, and Bugaboos, and back-country climbing has always been my favorite pastime. I ain't no cragger, Jack, but if Socialist actually means what he says, then by and large the roadside crags are the place for him.

But by all means, carry on with the good missionary work.

As for Moss Cliff, I've done one of the old classics, A Touch of Class (5.9) there, and both rumor and what you see suggests that there are many superb routes, all pretty hard. The old aid routes around on the right side are now new-age free climbs.