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#47309 - 08/04/09 12:43 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: tokyo bill]
TerrieM Offline
addict

Registered: 05/14/09
Posts: 425
Loc: Gunks in Summer, Southwest in ...
hahahah - I thought the same!

I would be ca-rapping my pants at the sight of that traverse....

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#47310 - 08/04/09 12:55 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: TerrieM]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
I think it's just the perspective, but does somebody need a man-bra?

Notice how as soon as the belayer says 'now I have to do it next' the camera starts shaking ;-)

Is it common to belay where he did, such that the ropes are almost above you on the traverse? Not a bad idea, but it puts the second in a worse place when s/he leaves the belay ...

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#47316 - 08/05/09 07:19 AM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Julie]
tokyo bill Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/24/00
Posts: 793
Loc: Tokyo
Originally Posted By: Julie
I think it's just the perspective, but does somebody need a man-bra?


That's exactly what I meant by disconcerting! Pretty sure it was actually a team of three: one man leading; one man and one woman on the belay ledge, with the woman belaying with a camera on her helmet and the man talking.

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#47319 - 08/05/09 05:29 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Julie]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
That is not the usual belay. I think they must have set up that hanging belay for filming. You can stand comfortably at the normal belay about five feet lower, on a ledge the size of a large living room.
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#48111 - 09/23/09 07:30 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: SethG]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
Okay, here's an obsessive/trivial/stupid question for those with spare time to ponder.

There's a photo of Art Gran on page 222 of the latest Williams guide to the Trapps. The caption says it's Thin Slabs Direct. But I'm pretty sure it isn't. The formation Gran is standing on bears a superficial resemblance to Thin Slabs Direct, but apart from the basic outline of the rock, everything is wrong. The featured crack (which holds all the pins) is missing, there's a section of rock jutting out to the right (at the top/right corner of the photo) that's totally wrong, and there's a rope supporting Gran from directly above that would make absolutely no sense if Gran were actually doing Thin Slabs Direct.

There's a great photo of Thin Slabs Direct in the Dumais book, on page 102. Compare the two and you'll see what I mean.

So which climb is Gran actually doing?
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#48116 - 09/23/09 08:43 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: SethG]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
It's TSD (as far as I can tell).

It looks like he's not climbing into the corner and traversing out like most people, but rather taking a more direct line.

Here's a picture from below:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/54/148761507_755c63815b_b.jpg

It looks like he's standing about two right of where I am.


Edited by quanto_the_mad (09/23/09 08:46 PM)
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#48135 - 09/24/09 03:00 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: quanto_the_mad]
SethG Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/16/08
Posts: 710
Loc: NYC
Good call, QTM, I think you solved the mystery.
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It's true, I have a blog. http://climbandpunishment.blogspot.com/

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#48150 - 09/24/09 09:01 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: SethG]
Elwood54 Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/11/05
Posts: 76
Loc: NYC
Does taking the more direct line increase the difficulty past 7+?

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