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#33413 - 10/02/07 04:10 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: pedestrian]
johnm Offline
newbie

Registered: 04/03/02
Posts: 36
I wouldn't call it "one of the most G-rated traverses in the gunks" - that's silly. For a 5.7 leader it's a gnarly traverse with difficult gear to place, for sure. The pins will probably rip on a fall. The climb is harder than 5.7+ if you have to hang out and place 2-3 cams to make it "G".

Replace the pins? Either way ok by me (most here seem to say no).

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#33414 - 10/02/07 04:26 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: johnm]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
The fact that the moves are difficult doesn't make the gear any less G. Ignore the pins. Place solid cams.

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#33415 - 10/02/07 04:31 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: pedestrian]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Out of curiosity....does anyone here do any aid? Has anyone repeated the old aid line on Thin Slabs Direct? About 1/2 way out the traverse, there is a (very) thin crack that goes up to and all the way out the huge roof above. It's rated old school A3.
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#33416 - 10/02/07 05:13 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: MarcC]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
do you think it would have gone hammerless? hmm.

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#33417 - 10/02/07 05:48 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: pedestrian]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2454
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
The climb is harder than 5.7+ if you have to hang out and place 2-3 cams to make it "G".

Is this not one of the central problems in appropriately grading trad climbs?

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#33418 - 10/02/07 06:14 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: pedestrian]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
 Originally Posted By: pedestrian
The fact that the moves are difficult doesn't make the gear any less G.


One of the guidebook authors - I forget if it's DW or TS - defines PG gear as gear which is "difficult to place". Hanging off a heel hook on a crux traverse meets that definition.

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#33420 - 10/02/07 06:17 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
Who's heel hooking on Thin Slabs Direct?

Dangler... Yes, but Thin Slabs? Umm...
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#33423 - 10/02/07 07:22 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Mike Rawdon]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
 Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
 Originally Posted By: pedestrian
The fact that the moves are difficult doesn't make the gear any less G.


One of the guidebook authors - I forget if it's DW or TS - defines PG gear as gear which is "difficult to place". Hanging off a heel hook on a crux traverse meets that definition.


The new Williams says "G" simply means lots of gear and short falls. Difficulty or strenuous placements are separately noted and not taken into account for the gear rating.

"A protection grade has nothing to do with how difficult or strenuous it might be to place that protection; it is telling the climber about the level of security that a placement is likely to offer." from page xxi of the new Williams guide.


Edited by quanto_the_mad (10/02/07 07:25 PM)
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#33428 - 10/02/07 09:27 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: quanto_the_mad]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
A quick glance through my bookshelf suggests that the "difficult to place" criterion is Mellor's.

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#33429 - 10/02/07 09:32 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: quanto_the_mad]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
 Originally Posted By: quanto_the_mad
The new Williams says "G" simply means lots of gear and short falls. Difficulty or strenuous placements are separately noted and not taken into account for the gear rating.

I've told many people of numerous Gunks 5.9s that are very safe if you hang out to get the gear but can become very dicey if you skip the placements. I consider it part of climbing at that grade, not as affecting the gear rating.

But one could always define it differently, as long as it's clear what it means.

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