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#33431 - 10/02/07 09:43 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Dillbag]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
 Originally Posted By: Dillbag
Who's heel hooking on Thin Slabs Direct?

Dangler... Yes, but Thin Slabs? Umm...


i do
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#33437 - 10/03/07 01:58 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Daniel]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2470
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
In my opinion, a gear rating should tell you how good the gear is once you get it in, not how tired you'll be after placing it (that effect should---also in my opinion---be factored into the climbing grade, but this is not common practice).

An example of this is the hard part of Directissima. It got a 5.9 rating when it had two fixed pins and you could clip and go. Now that you have to place gear while hanging on, I think it should be 5.10a. But of course someone follows it on the run and says, nah, only 5.9. But the leader had to take a hang to finish the route...

"Difficult to place" should mean something else, namely that gear at the rated level can be found but is not obvious or immediately obtained; the climber will have to fiddle, look about creatively, and perhaps have specialized gear (tricams, ballnuts, certain brands of brassies, etc.)

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#33439 - 10/03/07 02:57 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: rg@ofmc]
redtag Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/26/07
Posts: 98
i basically agree with you...that the gear rating is about the gear once its in....

but as for directissima...you have to place one piece on the traverse...just one...you can place the first piece from a stance by reaching out as far as you can...and you can see the crack, select the appropriate cam, clip a draw to it, and pre clip to the rope...so all you have to do while moving through it is clip and go or in this case plug and go...

it was 5.9 with a hammer and pins wasnt it? hanging out to place or clean one of those pins would surely give a bigger pump that plugging one cam in....

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#33440 - 10/03/07 03:00 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: redtag]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
There's a traverse on Directisima?? Isn't that sort of an oxymoron? Why not just go straight up the outside edge of the buttress? Seems to make it more straight forward. More..."direct" if you will.

RR

P.S. I'm just being a curmudgeon. Of course I know the regular Directissima has a traverse, always thought it was silly though.

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#33442 - 10/03/07 04:16 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: RangerRob]
learningtolead Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/16/02
Posts: 981
Loc: a wanna be kerhonkson-er
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
P.S. I'm just being a curmudgeon. Of course I know the regular Directissima has a traverse, always thought it was silly though.


RR, a curmudgeon? Heavens no! It just can't be. Next you'll tell me that Strat is antisocial or Smike can't spell...

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#33448 - 10/03/07 06:21 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: redtag]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
 Originally Posted By: redtag
but as for directissima...you have to place one piece on the traverse...just one...


Well, I think that's a matter of taste. I think I placed three pieces on the traverse. Because they're small active pieces, I simply didn't trust one to hold me if I fell, so I place two early on, and then as I was getting near the end, I place another to protect the finish of the traverse. And frankly, I got pumped silly, hung, and just made a general embarrassment of myself. My second time on it, I think I placed the same gear, but worked out the feet much more carefully, and got to the end with arms to spare.

As for what the rating should be, that's beyond me to say.

GO

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#33456 - 10/04/07 12:48 AM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: RangerRob]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
There's a traverse on Directisima?? Isn't that sort of an oxymoron? Why not just go straight up the outside edge of the buttress? Seems to make it more straight forward. More..."direct" if you will.

RR


Rob, what do you reckon that variation goes at? 9/9+/noneof theabove??

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#33478 - 10/04/07 08:01 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
If you do it the true directissima way...there is a move after you turn the buttress. You can either head up right into a scoop, then step back left and up, or you can go straight up the wall on your left. That move I think approaches the 5.10a grade. Everything else is just consistent 5.9+ climbing. Possibly even easier than the regular route.

RR

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#33490 - 10/05/07 01:40 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: RangerRob]
redtag Offline
journeyman

Registered: 06/26/07
Posts: 98
exactly what he said...5.9 all the way, _maybe_ one 5.10a move...

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#33494 - 10/05/07 02:27 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: redtag]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
If it's 5.9...

Why did RR tell me it was a 10a when we climbed it...?
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