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#33375 - 10/01/07 01:21 AM DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD!
olmw Offline
stranger

Registered: 10/01/07
Posts: 1
Took a trip up Thin Slabs Direct this afternoon, what a great climb. Great hands, amazing exposure, but boy are those old pins manky! The 2nd pin moved as I clipped it! At this point, those pins appear to be for moral support only.

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#33377 - 10/01/07 02:51 AM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: olmw]
Steven Cherry Offline

veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1300
Loc: New York, N.Y.
The route is G even without the pins, if you hang out and get the gear in.

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#33379 - 10/01/07 04:11 AM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Steven Cherry]
Cornell Climber Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 61
 Originally Posted By: Steven Cherry
The route is G even without the pins, if you hang out and get the gear in.


G-rated??? Not in my opinion. Not enough gear to make that traverse even close to G. And the pins are in a band of bad shale (if I recall). Those pins are the reason I own two screamers. To each their own...

How about the traverse at the start of pitch 2 on No Glow. I'd take even the Thin Slabs Direct pins there.

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#33380 - 10/01/07 04:20 AM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Cornell Climber]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
the pins on thin slabs are each right next to good cams...when those pins fall out the climb only gets easier as there will be more holds to grab and more places you can put protection

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#33381 - 10/01/07 04:21 AM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Cornell Climber]
schwortz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 09/10/03
Posts: 308
there is definitely g rated gear on thin slabs...those pins are already totally irrelevant...and when those pins fall out the climb only gets easier as there will be more holds to grab and more places you can put protection

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#33386 - 10/01/07 01:57 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: Cornell Climber]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
 Originally Posted By: Cornell Climber

G-rated??? Not in my opinion. Not enough gear to make that traverse even close to G. And the pins are in a band of bad shale (if I recall). Those pins are the reason I own two screamers. To each their own...


Steven is correct. That is one of the most G traverses in the Gunks... if you fall off it will be all air, and if you bring small aliens you can get gear every 2-4 feet or so.

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#33396 - 10/01/07 09:59 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: pedestrian]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I don't remember the second pitch of No Glow being anything but a pleasant 5.7ish climb up and around a corner and up to the roof. Maybe old age is softening the memories

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#33397 - 10/01/07 10:11 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: RangerRob]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
I don't remember the second pitch of No Glow being anything but a pleasant 5.7ish climb up and around a corner and up to the roof.

5.7R/X perhaps. I really don't remember much, if any, reliable pro until well up toward the roof. Of course, I could have forgotten...or am remembering a different route in the neighborhood....or suffered temporary protection blindness.
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- Marc

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#33401 - 10/01/07 10:56 PM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: RangerRob]
Daniel Online   content
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
I don't remember the second pitch of No Glow being anything but a pleasant 5.7ish climb up and around a corner and up to the roof.


Williams has the No Glow traverse as 5.5 R. It's spooky, above an overhang, harder for tall people, and makes me nervous; a fall would result in a fairly long pendulum. Easy climbing after that up to the crux, if I recall correctly.

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#33404 - 10/02/07 02:12 AM Re: DAMN those pins on Thin Slabs Direct are OLD! [Re: RangerRob]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2954
Loc: LI, NY
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Maybe old age is softening the memories

and the midsection!
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

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