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#3380 - 11/27/01 05:26 PM Colorado Ice
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
To Andrew or anyone else:

Will be out in Colorado for 2wks over Christmas and am looking to broaden my hit list of things. Any suggestions of must do routes, three star routes (anything up to M8+/9 and up to WI6). Already looking at Ouray both in the ice park and outside (like Choppos Chimney). Also already going to Rifle and thinking Telluride.

Also any beta on how ice is forming


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#3381 - 11/27/01 07:04 PM Re: Colorado Ice [Re: Chas]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
Hi Chuck,

There was no ice in the state before last weekend, but we got slammed with a big storm over thanksgiving so stuff is just starting to come in. Hopefully it'll be fat during Christmas, but this was been an extremely warm winter so cross your fingers. I'm headed to Vail this weekend unless it is a total zoo, in which case I'm bailing to Lincoln Falls. At any rate, i'll let you know what the conditions are like.

Have you done much in RMNP? There has been some development going on there, DeCapio and Cordes have been at work. There are a few M8, M9ish things like Free Strike Zone that are supposed to be good. There are some amazing looking mixed lines on the Diamond, but I'm not sure how dangerous they are. . This is all hearsay and conjecture of course since I am quite happy to bumble around on WI4 pillars. Climbingboulder.com is starting to have more good ice information and they have condition reports, so check that out.

Wolf Creek Pass may also be good to check out-its usually colder there. Some very nice looking WI5ish stuff, and probably a bunch of opportunity for new mixed lines if you are so inclined. Its a beautiful place as well, and there is a nice hot spring 4 miles or so up a trail that is quite nice for relaxing(Rainbow Hot Spring).

andrew

Its all A1 until you fall.
_________________________
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.

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#3382 - 11/27/01 07:11 PM Re: sketchy kelly [Re: andrew]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
have you climbed with sketchy kelly (cordes)? Did you know he was the NCAA Div 1 boxing champ?


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#3383 - 11/27/01 08:33 PM Re: sketchy kelly [Re: crackers]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
really? didn't know that crackers. i've never climbed with kelly, or met him even. i did meet decapio in yosemite, and he said kelly is as sick as they come.

Its all A1 until you fall.
_________________________
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.

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#3384 - 11/27/01 10:03 PM Re: sketchy kelly [Re: andrew]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
he got his nickname from jojo, although his old roommates used to call him the same thing.

i have nothing but immense respect for the guy. I have never known somebody so physically and mentally driven. For instance, before he climbed he didn't want to get out of shape. So, he ran to the airport every time he flew out of missoula. It was about ten miles to the airport from the house, and he would carry all his luggage. This was when he was getting a masters. The guy is just *focused*, and a really sweet fellow. I haven't actually talked with him in years, but when i saw his name coming in climbing magazines i wasn't surprised at all.


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#3385 - 11/28/01 02:35 AM Re: sketchy kelly [Re: crackers]
Anonymous
Unregistered


I grew up with Kelly in central PA. He is a good guy and a helluva climber--getting faster every year (see recent R&I and Climbing mags). Pretty sure he's now living in Golden and doing a little writing for AAC and other mags. I think that name kicked in again after he did some ascent that made Climbing's "whipper of the month"--basically grounded out after a fall from the top of some heinous route; got right back on and finished it again. I guess little gear has one advantage--fast times.


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#3386 - 12/04/01 05:09 AM conditions beta [Re: Chas]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
OK, the ice sucks.

Vail is dry. Lincoln is in, but it is very crowded. Very little is in in RMNP. the ice park in ouray is supposed to open sometime this week. we'll see.

If I were you I'd go to Canada instead Chuck-this may be the worst year for ice in Colorado ever

Its all A1 until you fall.
_________________________
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.

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#3387 - 12/04/01 12:04 PM Re: conditions beta [Re: andrew]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Is the winter storm moving across helping? The ice sucked here in the Bay area (non-existant) until last week, and I was out on some pretty good stuff on Saturday (7cm to 15cm thick).


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#3388 - 12/04/01 04:20 PM Re: conditions beta [Re: Chas]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
Hi Chuck,

No winter storm here-its sunny and in the 50s. I suppose that is good news for the south facing Vail ice-a fair amount of snow fell so it may do the melt freeze thing. The conditions I reported were for Sunday, so ice near the front range is grim.

Apparently Wolf Creek pass has decent ice-but that is hearsay.

andrew



Its all A1 until you fall.
_________________________
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.

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#3389 - 12/21/01 03:35 PM Re: conditions beta [Re: andrew]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Andrew:
How are things forming now in Colorado. In Cali, the ice is better then its been in years (sorry all) with things forming up that rarely form (except for one of the clmbing areas the climbs are now shorter by 18ft due to new snowfall).


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