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#35384 - 01/29/08 02:18 AM Gear suggestions
tomd Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/29/08
Posts: 6
Hey, I have never been to the Gunks, but I plan to head up this summer. I'm posting a list of my rack and was wondering if I can get some opinions of holes that I would be best to fill for a trip to the gunks. I know it depends on the route, but any general suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I expect to get some comments on holes in my active gear.

.1 Camalot, Black Diamond
.5 Camalot, Black Diamond
.2 Camalot, Black Diamond

#4 Stopper, Black Diamond
#5 Stopper, Black Diamond
#5 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Stopper, Black Diamond
#7 Stopper, Black Diamond
#7 Stopper, Black Diamond
#8 Stopper, Black Diamond
#8 Stopper, Black Diamond
#9 Stopper, Black Diamond
#9 Stopper, Black Diamond
#10 Stopper, Black Diamond
#10 Stopper, Black Diamond
#11 Stopper, Black Diamond
#12 Stopper, Black Diamond
#13 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Hex, Black Diamond
#8 Hex, Black Diamond
#10 Hex, Black Diamond

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#35385 - 01/29/08 04:43 AM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: tomd]
CrackBoy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 02/06/02
Posts: 2435
Loc: Republic of Davis
i would say pick up a .75 and maybe a .5 and add the 3 smallest tricams and you are good on anything up to 5.6 or so
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#35392 - 01/29/08 04:06 PM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: CrackBoy]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2554
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
All things being relative, it depends on the experience and grade of routes you plan to climb. Many folk carry stoppers, doubled cams for the sizes they like. I carry a set of C3s for small cams, and then a green alien or two with doubled .4-.75 camalots, as well as a #1,2 and 3 camalot. I also carry a couple tricams. Many would find this excessive and in my younger days I might have agreed, when I couldn't yet afford them. When there were many more fixed pins around much less gear was needed on classic moderates. Most guide books will make rack suggestions and Dick Williams is very careful to describe any absolutely neccessary pieces for a particular climb up to about 5.9, at which point he figures you know enough to carry what you need.
Enjoy.

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#35405 - 01/30/08 04:06 PM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: chip]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2326
Loc: Boston
Am I reading correctly that you have three cams, that they top out at about an inch, and have a big gap in the middle?

Um... yeah, you could use some more cams.

GO

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#35420 - 01/31/08 03:52 AM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: tomd]
tomd Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/29/08
Posts: 6
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I really appreciate the feedback. I actually put down .1 instead of 1 camelot. I updated my rack list with some of the suggestions from your posts. I know that I am still a little scarce in the Cams, but I'm hoping that this rack will get me up most 5.4-5.6 routes for my 1st trip up there. I'm waiting for the guide book to come in, so I will sureley take a look at that before I head up.

.2 Camalot, Black Diamond
.4 Camalot, Black Diamond
.5 Camalot, Black Diamond
.5 Camalot, Black Diamond
.75 Camalot, Black Diamond
1 Camalot, Black Diamond
3 Camalot (new), Black Diamond
#4 Stopper, Black Diamond
#5 Stopper, Black Diamond
#5 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Stopper, Black Diamond
#7 Stopper, Black Diamond
#7 Stopper, Black Diamond
#8 Stopper, Black Diamond
#8 Stopper, Black Diamond
#9 Stopper, Black Diamond
#9 Stopper, Black Diamond
#10 Stopper, Black Diamond
#10 Stopper, Black Diamond
#11 Stopper, Black Diamond
#12 Stopper, Black Diamond
#13 Stopper, Black Diamond
#6 Hex, Black Diamond
#8 Hex, Black Diamond
#10 Hex, Black Diamond
.5 Tri-Cam, Camp
1 Tri-Cam, Camp
1.5 Tri-Cam, Camp
2 Tri-Cams, Camp

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#35422 - 01/31/08 03:54 AM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: tomd]
tomd Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/29/08
Posts: 6
Oh ya, I forgot to mention this before- If anyone is interested in keeping track of your rack and creating custom racks for certain climbs, there is a great free program at:

http://www.racksimulator.com/

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#35423 - 01/31/08 04:00 AM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: tomd]
mworking Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/26/04
Posts: 761
The obvious missing piece in now a #2 Camalot. After adding that you'd have pretty basic rack likely similar to what many "middle generation climbers started with. How you feel about climbing with it really depends more about you than the rack itself.

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#35434 - 01/31/08 03:03 PM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: mworking]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
My guess is that the .2 is a #2. Maybe this guy works for Verizon.

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#35580 - 02/13/08 08:14 PM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: dalguard]
acdnyc Offline
member

Registered: 11/10/04
Posts: 199
Loc: NYC/Kerhonkson
Add metolius tcus from #1(blue)-#4(red). They fit the many pin scares you will find on most climbs. That is if you have the cash.
I have the 0(purple) and 00(grey). I only use those when I aid.
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jugs or mugs

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#35677 - 02/22/08 08:38 PM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: acdnyc]
Arms Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1760
Loc: WV, near NRG and Seneca
I feel confident in the Metolius 0 and 00 TCUs as lead pieces if the placement and rock are good. However, Wild Country makes a couple of tinier ones that I wouldn't trust except for aid.

Just my 2 cents.
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Arms

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#35843 - 03/06/08 04:03 AM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: Arms]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1748
Loc: Flagstaff
The 0 and 00 are just fine for leading trad (my current project has a whole section of 00's (but I use the equivelent in BD C3's), but if you are asking what rack is appropriate, I'd be very leary about suggesting those pieces. No offense intended but I am not familar with your experience and to use those pieces realistically you do need to be fairly experienced.


Edited by Chas (03/06/08 04:04 AM)

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#36117 - 03/26/08 11:18 PM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: Arms]
acdnyc Offline
member

Registered: 11/10/04
Posts: 199
Loc: NYC/Kerhonkson
the axles flex on the 0 n 00. i still use my black n blue aliens. got them before the recall
_________________________
jugs or mugs

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#36171 - 03/30/08 08:56 PM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: Arms]
rackrat Offline
member

Registered: 12/20/02
Posts: 160
Loc: NYC - UWS
Add a #1 camalot, and perhaps a #0, #1, and/or #2 C3. The green alien size range is magical at the gunks, find those placements everywhere.
You need to have it doubled up.

You might get a couple brassies or copper brass nuts for directionals and emergency aide placements in small seams. HB Offsets (if you can find them), RP's, BD Copper-brass nuts, are all strong options. Metolius Astro nuts in smaller sizes have become popular as well.




Edited by rackrat (03/30/08 08:58 PM)
_________________________
Trad is the only way to fly.

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#36192 - 03/31/08 05:56 PM Re: Gear suggestions [Re: rackrat]
Coppertone Online   content
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1014
Loc: Newtown, CT
 Originally Posted By: rackrat
Add a #1 camalot, and perhaps a #0, #1, and/or #2 C3. The green alien size range is magical at the gunks, find those placements everywhere.
You need to have it doubled up.

You might get a couple brassies or copper brass nuts for directionals and emergency aide placements in small seams. HB Offsets (if you can find them), RP's, BD Copper-brass nuts, are all strong options. Metolius Astro nuts in smaller sizes have become popular as well.



I love my brassies, but I don't think that a visiting climber looking to do 5.4 to 5.6 is going to have much need for brassies and micro nuts.

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