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#35941 - 03/12/08 02:40 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: chip]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Yeah kind of scary. I didn't want to place any gear behind it for fear that I'd fall and slide it out sideways!!!! It's a nice little spot for an afternoon up there.
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#35942 - 03/12/08 02:51 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: chip]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Yes we climbed at the Banana Belt, but one of the routes (El Nino, I think) we did differently than described in the book. Instead of going up and right to a spike of rock, we went straight over a little roof and continued up the corner.

actually, I should say "they", as I was out of commission due to my back and was barely able to make the walk up to the cliff.

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#35965 - 03/13/08 11:44 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: chip]
jeremy haas Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/13/08
Posts: 3
Considering some of the ice daggers that Tommy is willing to ride, I doubt that chunk of rock bothered him much. I wonder what other Adirondack toddering death blocks, and pointy summits we could begin to list here:
Anyone climb the tower atop Chimney Mountain?

Jim, do you have a picture of Lucie atop Rickety Pinnacle?

Walking beneath Pitchoff Chimney Cliff, or the Poke-O Nose gives me the willies......

JHaas

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#35969 - 03/14/08 12:44 AM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: jeremy haas]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
I found this stack at the start of the second pitch of Whoops at the Upper Washbowls a little disconcerting...

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#35970 - 03/14/08 12:49 AM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: Aya]
felix m Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/01/06
Posts: 63
i can remember climbing Summer Solstice with jim damon a zillion years ago. i laughed last time i looked for it!

yeah the nose will end up on the northway some day. great cliff that poco - one of the finest anywhere imho.

look forward to the guidebook - i know it will be super / fantastic stuff up north

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#35973 - 03/14/08 02:06 AM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: felix m]
jeremy haas Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/13/08
Posts: 3
Aya,
I know those blocks (on Whoops)! The first time I took Erika to the Washbowl, what did we climb? No it wasn't the classic Partition or the high-quality Overture, rather it was Whoops and BBC. All in the good name of guidebook fieldwork. She learned a good deal about obstacle avoidance on some of the choss pitches. The worst part of Whoops P2 is having to step off of loose blocks and onto unprotected rock, agreed?

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#35974 - 03/14/08 02:11 AM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: jeremy haas]
jeremy haas Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/13/08
Posts: 3
Felix,
Meschinelli assures us that the Nose is keyed in there really well. When was the last time you saw some one climb it? I knew a guy, when I lived in Colorado, that soloed the Sky Traverse! Begging to be climbed and I'm going to be real disappointed in myself if I don't pony up before she falls off Poke-o.

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#35975 - 03/14/08 03:02 AM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: jeremy haas]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Definitely the worst part. I stepped up a couple of times, but couldn't commit to the transfer of balance onto my right foot without pro, so I ended up coming down and letting Joe lead it. He's a magician with RPs and managed to finagle something marginal and another something marginal.

It was a funny day. We went up there looking to get away from the crowds (it was a Sunday, which is always a late start day for us because I usually don't get in until late on Saturdays and take a couple three beers to unwind!) and thought we'd head up there. There were at least 4 other parties there, and I think another one or two a couple pitches up on various things. It was like a 30-degree-saturday-afternoon-in-the-Canyon crowded... After noting parties starting up on Partition, Overture, Green Beer, and Butterflies are Free, we said hey, let's do Whoops. Eh. someone had gotten on it while we were walking back from Overture. So we said screw it, we'll sit and wait for Partition. So we did. And we sat too far away, because ten minutes later, after we saw the party on it a safe distance ahead, we walked over to find a couple racking up at the base.

Apparently the leader on Whoops was a new leader (?????) and was reaaally slow so we ended up climbing some grungy corner to the left of it and the right of Partition. It was pretty bad. The second pitch of Whoops started with that block pile and then didn't get a whole lot better in terms of bomber pro, as I recall... I seem to remember telling Joe that I was pretty unimpressed with his route, really!!!

I'll tell you what freaks me out: Seneca. Like the whole entire cliff. Seriously. Like if I rap from the top I'm going to lever it too much and send it all toppling over into the stream. Shudder.
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#35976 - 03/14/08 11:09 AM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: Aya]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
I love Seneca!

so when's the deal w/ Silver Lake? i take it SL will not be in the book
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#35978 - 03/14/08 01:47 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: talus]
ShakesALot Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 257
Loc: NJ
 Originally Posted By: talus
I love Seneca!

so when's the deal w/ Silver Lake? i take it SL will not be in the book


It's not in the table of contents:

http://www.adirondackrock.com/TableOfContents.pdf

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