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#35979 - 03/14/08 01:49 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: ShakesALot]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
Appendix C
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#35983 - 03/14/08 04:48 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: talus]
Jim Lawyer Offline
member

Registered: 08/23/00
Posts: 157
Loc: Pompey, NY
Correct -- Silver Lake is still off limits. I took aerial photos of the place, and there's about 4 Poke-Os worth of climbing, maybe more.

Regarding choss, the Adirondacks has more than it's share. However, it's not all bad. I have fond memories of climbing the second pitch of Weekend Warrior with Dennis Luther, and the choss added an extra element of adventure and fun. Watching Flex Luther boulder over an unprotected 5.10 bulge was a special treat.

...Or The Cooler at Poke-O, jungle pulling and runout jamming up a corner (that's right, the jam crack flares in the back and doesn't take pro), and a lichen-covered wall with a wedged death torpedo on P3. All very memorable, perhaps more so because of the choss.

It would be fun to create a list of the "BEST of the Choss", or the "Chossiest Routes You Want To Do." Certainly these two routes are on my list.

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#36027 - 03/18/08 11:08 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: Jim Lawyer]
Jim Lawyer Offline
member

Registered: 08/23/00
Posts: 157
Loc: Pompey, NY
For research/history fans, I compiled a bibliography of Adirondack Rock Climbing. Very obscure stuff, and really hard to find.

http://www.AdirondackRock.com/bibliography.htm

Jim

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#36030 - 03/19/08 12:32 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: Jim Lawyer]
strat Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 04/30/01
Posts: 4242
Jim, Were you able to find out what year Weissner did the FA on the Noonmark Weissner route?
Sam

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#36045 - 03/19/08 11:46 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: strat]
Jim Lawyer Offline
member

Registered: 08/23/00
Posts: 157
Loc: Pompey, NY
I never did find that out. Here are a few of the big Dacks mysteries:

* When did Wiessner climbed the Noonmark routes? The only evidence that he did these is documented in Healy's guides, but there is no other written account that backs this up.

* Who climbed the routes on Chapel Pond Slab, and when. All we know is that members of the ACC did these.

* When did Wiessner & Austin climb the Old Route on Hurricane?

* Who did the REAL first ascent of the Diagonal? Pitons were reported by every party.

* What route did Baldwin take up Wallface in 1920? This would be one of the earliest known roped climbed. Baldwin went on to climb in NH on Cannon with some well-known names (including, coincidentally, Betty Woolsey).

* Where are the 2 routes that Burton talks about on Wallface, done by Peter Gabriel (no, not the rock star)? This was pre-Diagonal times. Gabriel was a real star for the times with many FAs in Alaska with the likes of Bates and Washburn.

I dug pretty deep and talked to all the old timers that are still living, but came up empty handed on both counts. It will take more investigation. Perhaps the second edition...

Jim

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#36231 - 04/01/08 09:55 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: Jim Lawyer]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
did it ship did it ship anybody got it anybody got theirs did it ship ...

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#36235 - 04/01/08 10:20 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: crackers]
danskiz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/07/01
Posts: 244
Loc: Jamestown ny
Havn't seen it yet, but my paypal account was charged yesterday, so they're probably on the way!

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#36245 - 04/02/08 03:05 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: danskiz]
ShakesALot Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 258
Loc: NJ

Mine ships/shipped today \:\)

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#36248 - 04/02/08 04:21 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: ShakesALot]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
Yeah, I got a shipping notice a few minutes ago. Awesome!
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#36259 - 04/02/08 08:07 PM Re: New Daks Guidebook [Re: quanto_the_mad]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
I can't wait to use mine this weekend. I just hope the weather cooperates. Of course, in the end we'll probably end up at the Web because it's so easy, and the guidebook won't get used, but oh well!
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