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#36301 - 04/06/08 05:09 PM Re: Accident Report... [Re: core]
Daniel Offline
veteran

Registered: 05/23/01
Posts: 1515
Prior to the bolts, I think people belayed at the lower ledge (as described in older Williams guidebooks). Most people these days would end the first pitch at the bolts (as described in the Gray Dick) rather than set a gear anchor.

So: there's a good small cam placement in the crack in the roof, as you described. My recollection is that once you're up into the left-facing corner, 5.7 leaders are unlikely to stop for gear until they get to the top of the corner under then next, smaller roof. There's a big horizontal under that roof where one traverses right to the the bolts (located where the other climber is in the photo, above the tree) with easy gear, but it's only a couple of straighforward moves to the bolts.

Good photo of that section.

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#36312 - 04/06/08 11:41 PM Re: Accident Report... [Re: Daniel]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Being no longer local, I'm certainly not up to date on all the latest. But there's a bolted anchor on Strictly now? Um, why?
_________________________
- Marc

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#36313 - 04/06/08 11:41 PM Re: Accident Report... [Re: Daniel]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Being no longer local, I'm certainly not up to date on all the latest. But there's a bolted anchor on Strictly now? Um, why?
_________________________
- Marc

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#36318 - 04/07/08 02:38 AM Re: Accident Report... [Re: MarcC]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
 Quote:
Strictly now? Um, why?

I dunno, maybe um, save that pitch pine?

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#36331 - 04/07/08 02:07 PM Re: Accident Report... [Re: Smike]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I think that Daniel has it right. After the big cam just below the climbers feet in the picture many chose to run it out until they are even with the bolts and traverse over the few feet remaining to the right. This is a little pumpy/awkward and is likely the way the injury occurred. I wasn't there and am only quessing.
I too like a good pitch pine rap anchor but these are dwindling if you compare pictures taken over the last century of the Trapps. I'm not sure if we are killing them or simply preventing saplings from growing maturing by our presence. Probably a little of both.

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#36335 - 04/07/08 03:07 PM Re: Accident Report... [Re: chip]
caver Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 260
Loc: High Falls
I think that tree is actually an Eastern White Pine, but climbers can kill just the same due to soil loss exposing and destroying roots, general stress due to rappelling, etc. The bolted anchor there allows one rap to the ground with 'modern' length ropes.

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