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#37245 - 05/27/08 09:34 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: dalguard]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Better for the victim to hang in their harness for an hour (assuming harness hang syndrome does not set in, which it probably won't as long as the victim keeps moving and is otherwise in no risk of fainting) while waiting for a slow methodical rescue than it is to cut a rope and drop to a ledge with no backup plan in place.

Rescues get botched when people try to speed the rescue process along too fast, I'm sure it's especially tempting to speed up when one of the victims is a screamer. Getting down safely is more important than getting down in time for last call at the Otter. It is especially difficult for a rescuer to take control and keep the victim(s) from doing something rash... but that's exactly what needs to be done. Keep everyone calm.

At one time, I climbed at Bartlett's Cove in Maine, and my friend (a high school buddy I hadn't climbed with before) decided to do a spinning jump to a ledge, unbelayed, when our 50m rope came up 10 feet too short on rappel. I saw the psycho look in his eye when he was about to do this, and I knew what he was about to do. Said "don't do it" but he did it anyway. I haven't climbed with him since.


Edited by pedestrian (05/27/08 09:36 PM)

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#37246 - 05/27/08 09:39 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: dalguard]
alicex4 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/05/00
Posts: 3400
Daleguard said, "There could have been a legitimately stuck rope. The lower second could have been within grabbing range. For all the screaming, it sounds like everyone survived and that counts as a successful rescue to me."
Not buying the stuck rope, seems we would have heard something more coherent than just screaming if the rope was stuck. As for the successful rescue, dude it was barely avoiding a calamity, by pure luck/happenstance. That chick and those people on the ledge have used up all their luck IMO. Static webbing, 1 wrong move, and the best you were gonna get out of this was a broken back. Really creepy.

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#37247 - 05/27/08 09:42 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: dalguard]
danskiz Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/07/01
Posts: 244
Loc: Jamestown ny
My first thought reading this was the leader clearly messed up, either not knowing how to give slack with a loaded autoblocking belay device, a poorly set up belay, or even a combination of the two. The more I think about it though, I can think of at least two legimiate reasons why the leader may not have been able to lower the third with two coming up at once. Won't really know until we hear more. BUT, it absolutly blows my mind that with a party of 5 people standing there, the best they could come up with to get her on the ledge is to have her cut the rope and pull her in?!? WTF!!!

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#37248 - 05/27/08 10:05 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: danskiz]
greyalien Offline
journeyman

Registered: 05/06/05
Posts: 86
Loc: Central NJ and Upstate NY
This is why i intentionally avoided the gunks over the weekend and went surfing...
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#37249 - 05/27/08 10:15 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: greyalien]
mikeharo Offline
stranger

Registered: 06/06/06
Posts: 6
Does anyone know the (first) names of the climbers involved? My good friend was climbing in a two male one female team and am curious. The other two in his party are relatively inexperienced but I doubt he would allow the situation to get that out of control.

I climb at the Gunks on weekdays mostly in the fall and spring to avoid the crowds and such...

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#37250 - 05/27/08 10:29 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: mikeharo]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I think all of you holier than thou climbing forum geeks ought to just shut up and go back to your paperwork or whatever the hell it is you are doing right now.

RR


Edited by RangerRob (05/27/08 10:31 PM)

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#37251 - 05/27/08 11:09 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: RangerRob]
Doug Offline
member

Registered: 12/29/06
Posts: 174
I'm stuck hanging off of High-E with a knife and posting on my cellphone, so I am anxiously awaiting replies to this thread...

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#37252 - 05/28/08 12:38 AM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: RangerRob]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
too late rob, by the time you posted no one was doing any paper work.
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#37253 - 05/28/08 01:05 AM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: phlan]
Terrie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/14/04
Posts: 247
I'm a climbing forum addict, not a geek.
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Links to my blog, and online t-shirt shop

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#37255 - 05/28/08 02:21 AM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: alicex4]
D75 Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/18/05
Posts: 293
Loc: Holiday Inn Express
 Originally Posted By: alicex4
here's the skinny, related later that eve at a party. Source- 3 guys on Modern Times. High E is crowded. A party of 3 takes off and gets to the ledge. Second party of 5 takes off too. 1st party leader takes off the GT ledge and does the last pitch. the other two in the party decide to simul climb the last pitch, cowtailed together. 2nd and 3rd climber of ist party get stuck. 2nd can't move and the third is dangling, I suppose near the GT ledge. Enter the screaming sounds. The party of 5's "leader" tosses out some webbing (and a knife I guess) to the chick dangling. Then there's the "one, two, three" count and the ledge party pulls the dangling chick just as she cuts the rope. My friends on Modern Times said, "We couldn't believe what we saw and that nobody died", the guys on Modern Times had no idea that the parties would CUT a rope or they obviously would have intervened. I can't figure out why anyone would think that this was a suitable solution. CUTTING a rope, you've got to be kidding me! I haven't heard how she made out, I figure she had to slam into the GT pretty hard. Now some ass leader thinks that he saved the day by getting that chick to cut her rope. Doh!

Classic...
Source 3 guys on Modern Times...

I suppose...

...and a knife, I guess ...

I can't figure out... (was not there. Second-hand story at a party. Smartest thing so far?)

Then to sum it all up with the most incredible speculation...
"I haven't heard how she made out, I figure she had to slam into the GT pretty hard. Now some ass leader thinks that he saved the day by getting that chick to cut her rope.



Gotta be good job as a gossip columnist just waiting for your application.

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