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#37191 - 05/27/08 01:22 PM Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope
yellowhouse Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/19/07
Posts: 12
Loc: NYC
Anyone have the full story on this one from this past weekend?

I have sketchy details like: beginning leader...climbing as a party of 3 on High E...after the .move girl swung...got very upset...boyfriend and girlfriend tied into the same rope...inexperienced rescuers...cut the rope to free her...

Questions abound. Anyone with the real story?

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#37192 - 05/27/08 01:37 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: yellowhouse]
Terrie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 06/14/04
Posts: 247
...this ought to make for major rc.com internet drama. We were on Southern Pillar when our party heard the girl screaming(who at the Trapps didn't????).

I have no details as to what was going on. But my read of the thing(which obviously is just what I thought at the time and has no real relevance) was that it sounded like the screamer was very new to climbing and freaked out. Like, first time on the rope climbing.....

I was thinking it was some family TR'ing a kid under 10 by the sheer, uncontrollable terror she seemed to be expressing. I can't imagine someone doing a multipitch(High E?!?!!!) with a child who would have found themselves that frightened.

While the screaming went on for a longish amount of time for TR standards(which is understandable, now that I read it was'nt a TR....), it wasn't *that* long, in consideration of a multipitch rescue.

Cut rope? That sounds bizarre.
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#37193 - 05/27/08 02:00 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: Terrie]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2952
Loc: LI, NY
i heard some weird ass shit from a guy down at the willaims wall...
he had heard it from someone at a party. sounded ridiculous. would love to hear the rest of the details.
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#37194 - 05/27/08 02:02 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: yellowhouse]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2082
Loc: SoCal
From the No Glow area on the GT, Saturday, I saw a woman hanging with her head just below the upper buttress - so the move was just out of reach - and another person to her right, probably just at 'the move' and trying to coach her into it.

I heard a bit of whining - something like "I know how to do it!" ??, but there were two guys on the last pitch of Erect Direction who were much noisier. I also heard some screaming that sounded like a (very) young child, but definitely seemed to be coming from a different area - to climber's left of No Glow.

By the time we got down & back to our packs, the climber was no longer hanging in space. That's all I know.

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#37195 - 05/27/08 02:07 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: yellowhouse]
alicex4 Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/05/00
Posts: 3400
here's the skinny, related later that eve at a party. Source- 3 guys on Modern Times. High E is crowded. A party of 3 takes off and gets to the ledge. Second party of 5 takes off too. 1st party leader takes off the GT ledge and does the last pitch. the other two in the party decide to simul climb the last pitch, cowtailed together. 2nd and 3rd climber of ist party get stuck. 2nd can't move and the third is dangling, I suppose near the GT ledge. Enter the screaming sounds. The party of 5's "leader" tosses out some webbing (and a knife I guess) to the chick dangling. Then there's the "one, two, three" count and the ledge party pulls the dangling chick just as she cuts the rope. My friends on Modern Times said, "We couldn't believe what we saw and that nobody died", the guys on Modern Times had no idea that the parties would CUT a rope or they obviously would have intervened. I can't figure out why anyone would think that this was a suitable solution. CUTTING a rope, you've got to be kidding me! I haven't heard how she made out, I figure she had to slam into the GT pretty hard. Now some ass leader thinks that he saved the day by getting that chick to cut her rope. Doh!

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#37196 - 05/27/08 02:16 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: alicex4]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
Wow...
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#37197 - 05/27/08 02:40 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: quanto_the_mad]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I quess if it was good enough for Clint Eastwood it must be the way to go.

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#37199 - 05/27/08 03:10 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: alicex4]
phil Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 12/12/01
Posts: 2627
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
 Originally Posted By: alicex4
here's the skinny, related later that eve at a party. Source- 3 guys on Modern Times. High E is crowded. A party of 3 takes off and gets to the ledge. Second party of 5 takes off too. 1st party leader takes off the GT ledge and does the last pitch. the other two in the party decide to simul climb the last pitch, cowtailed together. 2nd and 3rd climber of ist party get stuck. 2nd can't move and the third is dangling, I suppose near the GT ledge. Enter the screaming sounds. The party of 5's "leader" tosses out some webbing (and a knife I guess) to the chick dangling. Then there's the "one, two, three" count and the ledge party pulls the dangling chick just as she cuts the rope. My friends on Modern Times said, "We couldn't believe what we saw and that nobody died", the guys on Modern Times had no idea that the parties would CUT a rope or they obviously would have intervened. I can't figure out why anyone would think that this was a suitable solution. CUTTING a rope, you've got to be kidding me! I haven't heard how she made out, I figure she had to slam into the GT pretty hard. Now some ass leader thinks that he saved the day by getting that chick to cut her rope. Doh!


No F**KING Way!!! \:o

Thats just too... too... I'm speechless, totally speechless...

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#37200 - 05/27/08 03:19 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: phil]
yellowhouse Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/19/07
Posts: 12
Loc: NYC
My real concern is the this kind of thing is going to continue to happen, and the consequences will be dire for all of us (people getting hurt/killed, cliff closures). As more and more people come out of the gym onto the rock, they are not using sound judgement, or any judgement regarding risk assessment. How does anyone learn that with out making the mistakes though? NOLS?, Guide Service? Freedom of the HIlls?

This issue will probably be one of the toughest issues facing climbing in the future.

Maybe it's just Darwinism at work...


Edited by yellowhouse (05/27/08 03:19 PM)

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#37201 - 05/27/08 03:28 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: yellowhouse]
learningtolead Offline
old hand

Registered: 04/16/02
Posts: 981
Loc: a wanna be kerhonkson-er
No way! So vertical limit was a true story after all?

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