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#37491 - 05/31/08 07:08 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: GOclimb]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Oh my fucking God! shut the hell up people! just SHUT THE HELL UP!!!! Damn losers...don't you have a lawn to mow, or dishes to wash, or something better than judging peoples actions when you don't even know the facts? Good God I want to vomit on all of you.

RR

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#37493 - 05/31/08 07:18 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: RangerRob]
Coppertone Online   content
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Good God I want to vomit on all of you.

RR


Sorry my 8 week old just beat you to it. Although I'll at the Gunks tomorrow if you want to give it a go.

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#37496 - 06/01/08 12:26 AM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: Coppertone]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
Hmmm...

Maybe RR was on the ledge? ;\)
_________________________
...anethum graveolens cucumis sativus!

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#37498 - 06/01/08 12:57 AM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: GOclimb]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Well maybe so Gabe, who knows.

By the way, the guy has two people hanging so has to raise both of them plus friction. Fuhgettaboutit.

The totally jammed autolocking belay device (with two people on a single rope hanging off it) is a plausible scenario. Next time use a Munter, Sparky.

I'm not a fan of autolocking belay devices, so perhaps should not comment, but using such a device when someone might be hanging free in space seems like a bad idea. If you insist, you ought to be damn sure you can unlock the thing when it is fully loaded, and your second ought to be damn sure they know how to prussik when it turns out you can't unlock the loaded device---in spite of being damn sure.

Oh and Rob, forcing yourself to read threads that make you nauseous is bad for your esophogus. Best to retreat to a judgement-free zone rather than judging those you accuse of judging.

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#37500 - 06/01/08 01:33 AM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: rg@ofmc]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
A leader that created a situation like this most likely does not know how to rig a Z pulley system. With a wall hauler set up 1:1 a 170 pound person can lift a 100 lb haul bag, granted there's less friction with the pulley and you can't have the rope running over an edge like the top of High E, but for a single person you should be able to subtract enough of their weight to enable them to climb 5.6. With that said, if they are hanging in space or there are two people hanging on the rope (it just sounds do absurd!) then down is the only direction to go.

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#37501 - 06/01/08 02:08 AM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: cfrac]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
cfrac... perhaps read the entire thread?

the leader DID rig a z-system...
_________________________
...anethum graveolens cucumis sativus!

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#37502 - 06/01/08 02:22 AM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: Dillbag]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
I hadn't realized the middle was off the wall too. That would make him useless.

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#37503 - 06/01/08 02:49 AM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: Dillbag]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
 Originally Posted By: Dillbag
cfrac... perhaps read the entire thread?

the leader DID rig a z-system...

The way I read it a different party rigged the Z pulley. Sorry if I misunderstood the report.

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#37504 - 06/01/08 12:59 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: Smike]
talus Offline
veteran

Registered: 08/23/04
Posts: 1259
 Originally Posted By: Smike
 Originally Posted By: talus
 Originally Posted By: EMan
Perhaps someone would go up and re-create for the cameras?


yes strat could be the insensitive leader and smike would be the screaming girl


Excellent, and you could be the asshat behind the camera, or the one passing out the knives.


no that's a job for your gumby buddies the chirping ranger type
_________________________
John Okner Photography

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#37517 - 06/02/08 02:31 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: talus]
retr2327 Offline
member

Registered: 06/14/07
Posts: 108
"a small amount of knowledge providing nothing more than a new context for incompetence."

As usual, RG nails it.

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