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#37305 - 05/28/08 07:08 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: quanto_the_mad]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Well, so far the only witness accounts have come from a party on Modern Times, and from there, they wouldn't have been able to see who was on the headwall of HE. So you're right, they may well have gotten that detail wrong.

I'm simply assuming that the story is correct in its essentials until I get more/better info.

GO

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#37306 - 05/28/08 07:18 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: Smike]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
 Originally Posted By: Smike
I think the Monday morning Quarter backing is almost as entertaining as the original story of the Vertical Limit ala Joe Simpson style.


i would suggest a slight twist to this post. many of the suggestions, based as they are on incomplete or erroneous information, are as inane as the apparent rescue efforts.

there are a number of ways that any one of us could have played this out and many of them would have been better. i certainly hope that my theoretical solution to an unknown problem would be a good one. my favorite part of this isnt the knife work, its the use of a sling rather than some of the hundreds of feet of rope available to the rescuers. could have made a sweet bungy jump for her - then we really could have had some screaming!

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#37315 - 05/28/08 08:23 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: wombat]
EMan Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/28/08
Posts: 12
Ok kids. It was me, Eric Weigeshoff, telling the story at the party. I was climbing Modern Times with Rod Schnier. We saw this start to happen while we climbed to the top from the GT. This is the story from the horse's mouth: NOTE! If I had have known what was truly going on, I would have intervened.

I was leading Modern Times to the GT. I was watching a fairly inexperienced team climbing High E. (Call them Team B) Team B's leader had set up a hanging belay about 8 feet under the GT ledge, I don't know why, and was bringing up his two followers from there. At that time, there were two people from another team (Team A) who were on the High E ledge. Leader was already at the top.

I then reached GT, and brought Rod up, who started to lead to top.

I noticed the 2nd of Team A starting to climb way to the right of the actual start to the last pitch of High E, and was struggling. I, of course, heckled. As he just about was to the crux, the third started climbing. I realized that she was tied into the same rope. Naturally, I heckled and took a picture of the imbeciles.

Rod was about on the top by now, when girl from Team A started screaming bloody murder. Can't do it, no holds, etc. Rod tops out, where he apparently encounters leader of Team A, not on top ledge where you would normally belay, but on the grassy top. He is lounging. Rod informs him that his girlfriend is going to be pissed. He says it's his sister. He sets up a z pulley, locks them off, and raps to the large ledge on top to observe.

At this time, I reach top, and heckle the guy, call him an idiot (I'm having a bad day) and Rod and I proceed to rap. Rod raps to the second station, I follow. As we are sitting at the second station, pulling our rope, I see Dan Ling reaching the ledge from Doubleissima. I also notice Team A girl hanging at lip, screaming.

I notice she has a sling on her, and Team B has apparently climbed up to her and built an anchor under the roof. At this point, Rod asks if we should go up to help, and I see her swinging back and forth, being pulled by Team B, who is anchored under the lip. We then hear:

1... 2... 3! The rope snaps, and she factor 2's onto the anchor that Team B built. I turn to Rod and say (Freaked out) "Did she just cut the rope?" Rod says, "She cut the rope!" This is repeated around 20 times by us both.

We rap to the ground, where team A's second proceeds to drop a #1 Camalot and a sling on me, just missing me, with the call, "Heads up, yo".

We leave, not wanting to clean up any mess that may ensue.

This is the actual story. No embellishment.

Eric Weigeshoff

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#37316 - 05/28/08 08:25 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: EMan]
EMan Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/28/08
Posts: 12
Oh, BTW. This entire incident could have been avoided if the leader of Team A:

LOWERED THEM TO THE LEDGE

Team B thought it was a better idea to cut the rope than to have them lowered.

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#37317 - 05/28/08 08:33 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: EMan]
EMan Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/28/08
Posts: 12
Also, there was no party of 5. There was the original 3 (Team A) 3 from Team B, Tim (Who owns Bubba) was part of a party of 3 on Directissima who had not reached the ledge, and Dan Ling on Doubleissima, with his partner on the ground.

She was hanging off the second, who was hanging off the leader. The second could communicate with the leader, and asked him to lower them both, had he brains, which, apparently, he didn't.

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#37319 - 05/28/08 08:39 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: EMan]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
Eric - thanks. you HAVE to post the pictures! I would love the hear from Dan since she must have almost landed on him.

Great stuff - i always prefer to fall directly onto an anchor attached only by a sling. that must have felt super. i assume team A had people anchored into said anchor under the roof as backup?

so glad that i didnt climb until monday afternoon and then only had to deal with chain smokers, a girl ditching off the start of Drunkards (unharmed fortunately) and some guy taking repeated 20 footers off some roof just to the south of drunkards (he got it on the 4th try so high marks for effort). gotta love memorial day.

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#37320 - 05/28/08 08:40 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: EMan]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Browndog had mentioned some commotion on the ledge. Sounds like he didn't appreciate the highbrow story potential. Sure glad everyone is OK.

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#37321 - 05/28/08 08:43 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: EMan]
ShakesALot Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/19/04
Posts: 257
Loc: NJ
 Originally Posted By: EMan


Naturally, I heckled and took a picture of the imbeciles.

...

We leave, not wanting to clean up any mess that may ensue.

This is the actual story. No embellishment.

Eric Weigeshoff


Too funny! Please post any and all pictures, black out the faces if you have to.

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#37323 - 05/28/08 08:57 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: ShakesALot]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Holy shit...

Thanks for the update.

GO

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#37324 - 05/28/08 09:04 PM Re: Screaming Girl/High E/Cut Rope [Re: GOclimb]
EMan Offline
stranger

Registered: 05/28/08
Posts: 12

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