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#37701 - 06/09/08 11:36 PM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: TrippleB]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 547
What are the advantages of the Reverso?

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#37704 - 06/10/08 03:44 PM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: Dana]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
Compared to... what?

Standard Tube Style (ATC), Hip-Belay, Figure-8, Auto-Locking Mechanical Device (Gri-gri)...?

(Just feeling a bit punchy today...)
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#37706 - 06/10/08 05:07 PM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: TrippleB]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1081
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
 Originally Posted By: TrippleB
 Originally Posted By: Mark Heyman
 Originally Posted By: TrippleB
The new Reverso has a new clip point

ala ATC-Guide

Ah, right, was responding to original poster. I think I explained the similarity in devices.

 Quote:
belaying "from the hip" (not a good technique).

Plesse explain.

"From the hip": Using an ATC or similar device from the hip with a climber below you, without redirection of the climber's end of the rope through an anchor point above (note that redirection creates a "short" toprope situation, which actually puts more force on an acnhcor than belaying directly off the anchor with a grigri, reverso or munter)


No it depends. For example If one ties in tight and belays from a sitting position the belayers weight is not on the anchor. In any case I wouldn’t advocate using any anchor where two bodyweights were an issue.

 Quote:
is not a good technique for bringing up a second because if the second falls, the belayer can find themselves fighting quite hard to hold the climber (not as much mechanical advantage as you have to pull your brake hand upward to lock off and are unable to sit back to use your body weight to lock the rope).


Give us a break! We don’t belong climbing at all if we can’t hold a second – in almost any position.

 Quote:
You are provided the ease of the grigri and the functionality of a munter without the weight or rope kinking.


Not true either – even after accounting for your logic reversal! If I wanted to use an auto locking device (and I might in case of a significant risk of rock-fall, seizure or heart attack) I could easily lower using a Grigri without other hassles including the need to be at anchor which is not always the best place to be.

 Quote:
I assume you intended these to apply respectively.

No, actually I ment to say that the munter is heavy and the gri gri kinks up the rope(please see a complete description of my use of the word kink in the post above).



Perhaps your are being facetious. I don't even know.


Edited by Mark Heyman (06/10/08 05:11 PM)

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#37707 - 06/10/08 05:16 PM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: Mark Heyman]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2320
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Is anyone else a bit bothered by the fact that Petzl, after producing one of the worst modern belay devices ever, decided to recover by ripping off the BD design? I'd say show a little loyalty to the original designers and buy an ATC guide.

(Full disclosure: I have purchased and retired a Reverso and own neither an ATC guide nor Petzl's copy of it.)

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#37709 - 06/10/08 06:21 PM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: rg@ofmc]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1081
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
 Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Is anyone else a bit bothered by the fact that Petzl, ... decided to recover by ripping off the BD design?


Absolutely - that was (just) one of the things that set me off about this advertisment/post.

 Quote:
I'd say show a little loyalty to the original designers and buy an ATC guide.


Agreed!

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#37711 - 06/10/08 07:55 PM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: Mark Heyman]
TrippleB Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/07/07
Posts: 34
Loc: NY
Mark,

Why would I be facetious to someone who fails to see the disadvantages of belaying a second from the hip without redirection? Hell, I don't even know what that fancy word means, I'm just a caveman.

Maybe I am just taking my crazy pills. I have cherry flavored this week!


Edited by TrippleB (06/10/08 08:03 PM)
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#37714 - 06/10/08 08:26 PM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: TrippleB]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Eaaaasy, Tripp. Red pill is the CRAZY pill. BLUE pill is the happy pill. Jeez. Get it straight.

Both you semanticists need to chill. The original Reverso still blows goats. It sucks for regular belaying, it sucks for autoblock belaying, it just plain sucks. And it's especially deadly for belaying the second from the harness. With a better device, belaying the second from the harness is downright easy when necessary, but still not something you want to do when you've got a convenient and secure top anchor.

If your name is Simon Yates, you learn how to belay without an anchor.


Edited by pedestrian (06/10/08 08:27 PM)

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#37716 - 06/10/08 10:23 PM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: pedestrian]
TrippleB Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/07/07
Posts: 34
Loc: NY
I belay with my teeth and my massive e-johnson, I just don't recommend it.
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TrippleB, because TripleB just doesnt look as cool.


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#37717 - 06/11/08 12:59 AM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: TrippleB]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
mmm...

This image seems appropriate...
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...anethum graveolens cucumis sativus!

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#37737 - 06/11/08 04:15 PM Re: Releasing the new Reverso3 [Re: Dillbag]
TrippleB Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/07/07
Posts: 34
Loc: NY
you better watch out, I always roll with my replica. i'll knock you out with my 115lb python sportin bod.

seriously though, that picture is entirely appropriate for these discussion forums.


Edited by TrippleB (06/11/08 04:21 PM)
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TrippleB, because TripleB just doesnt look as cool.


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