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#37964 - 06/22/08 03:24 PM Re: Oh no, not another Red Rock trip report! [Re: rg@ofmc]
Cornell Climber Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 61
 Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
If a rope hangs after the rappel over the overhang on JV, you basically need a rescue

Our rope hung on the slab below the overhang, and it was easy to lead up and free it. I have never actually climbed Johnny Vegas, but I think it goes right of the overhang. Don't know how hard it would be to lead up and free a rope stuck above the overhang.

I'll have to try Painted Bowl again one of these days. Eagle Dance is at the top of my tick list for Red Rock, so maybe next March.

One other tip for people climbing in that canyon... you don't have to drive the loop road. You can park on 159. Great way to beat the crowds to the climbs since you can start before 6am. We never actually tried it, but the hike is clearly visible from Solar Slab. It looks like a level, well worn trail and seems barely longer than the hike from the Oak Creek trailhead.


Jeff

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#37975 - 06/23/08 04:30 PM Re: Oh no, not another Red Rock trip report! [Re: Cornell Climber]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
When we did Epi we wound up loosing the trail in the dark after getting off of the summit before finding the Frogland descent gulley. The extra 2 hours wandering around on Black Velvet in the dark were not fun, but we did get down than night. From looking at your picture showing what you took it is amazing that you didn't have to haul the whole route, that is allot of gear. We made due with 3 #3 Camalots for the long Chimney pitch which was ok since you can slide a cam up with you pretty much the whole pitch. We got hammered just like you in the chimneys and cruised the rest after the black tower. Even though the upper pitches were not hard it is amazing how much you have to work on something that is normally very easy. I wound up leading a pitch that combined the Elephants Trunk and the the steep 5.9 face just after that which turned out to be what I thought was the best climbing of the whole outing. Not sure I would do it again, but if I do, no shorts and maybe bring knee pads.

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#37991 - 06/24/08 04:34 AM Re: Oh no, not another Red Rock trip report! [Re: Coppertone]
Cornell Climber Offline
journeyman

Registered: 07/12/04
Posts: 61
Stories like yours make me glad we didn't try the descent at night. Wandering for two hours in the dark is bad enough, but the night we were there every gust of wind would knock me off balance. My partner weighs about 110lbs. and I was really worried she would be blown off the mountain.

Yeah, we had way too much gear. The second had a pack with water, clif bars and approach shoes. The leader had to take the entire rack, even if it wasn't necessary for that pitch. Of course, we tried to place big cams as early as possible :-) Even so, after the climb I did a mental inventory and I'm not sure what we could have done without. Maybe get rid of doubles in some of the smaller sizes and eliminate one of the big cams.

I would have HATED to climb the chimneys with only #3 cams. I'm 6'1" and not good at scrunching. So I was comfortable further out in the chimneys where they are wider. To place even the #5, I'd have to wiggle back in the chimney where it narrowed, then wiggle back out to where I could make upward progress. [For those who haven't been on Epinepherine, the chimneys have a good bit of flare to them.] There was no way I could walk a #3 up the chimney with me.

Shorts? Yikes! I had flannel lined pants and ended the climb with holes in both knees (both in the pants and my skin). Yeah, knee pads would be great. Can you get a pair with sticky rubber?

By the way, I realize that for climbers skilled at chimneys, the grades on Epinephrine seem soft. But I've never been much good at chimneys. Even the start of Layback at the Nears gives me grief. Maybe I'll work on that this summer.

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#37994 - 06/24/08 01:33 PM Re: Oh no, not another Red Rock trip report! [Re: Cornell Climber]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2675
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
I love the stories from far more confident climbers than I of climbing that and staying out near the edge of the chimneys in order to clip the one or two bolts placed out on the wall for the entire pitch!

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#38000 - 06/24/08 04:36 PM Re: Oh no, not another Red Rock trip report! [Re: chip]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
 Originally Posted By: chip
I love the stories from far more confident climbers than I of climbing that and staying out near the edge of the chimneys in order to clip the one or two bolts placed out on the wall for the entire pitch!


Epi was actually my first chimney and I had very poor technique. Stay in tight I am sure was much harder, but being able to slide those cams up was reassuring. After the first long chimney I thought that my whole body was going to collapse. I found that pitch on Epi harder than the roof pitch on Levitation.

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#38028 - 06/26/08 10:08 PM Re: Oh no, not another Red Rock trip report! [Re: Coppertone]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2467
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I haven't done Epi, but I know that learning to move out to the wide parts of chimneys can make an enormous difference. For example, I've done the Salathe-Steck twice, and the first time we crawled into the back of every chimney and it took us 15 hours. The second time, with more confidence and technique, we moved to the outside as much as possible and cut our time (and fatigue) in half.

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#38054 - 06/27/08 02:40 PM Re: Oh no, not another Red Rock trip report! [Re: rg@ofmc]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
 Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
I haven't done Epi, but I know that learning to move out to the wide parts of chimneys can make an enormous difference. For example, I've done the Salathe-Steck twice, and the first time we crawled into the back of every chimney and it took us 15 hours. The second time, with more confidence and technique, we moved to the outside as much as possible and cut our time (and fatigue) in half.


Rich we have discussed this. I wish I had you experience as it would have made those chimenys much easier. I have no problem admitting that I was a wuss and staying in tight close to the gear. I have done Epi twice and your experience on Salathe-Steck did not translate for me on Epi as the first time I found it hard and scary. This only helped to reinforce that same experience for the second time around. what would have made a huge difference was kneepads.
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#38264 - 07/05/08 02:01 AM Re: Oh no, not another Red Rock trip report! [Re: rg@ofmc]
fallenglass Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/01/03
Posts: 276
Loc: cornwall
thanks for the tr! (i just got around to reading the recent ones) it makes me want to go there

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