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#39926 - 09/20/08 10:41 PM Erect Direction
sketchy john Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/20/08
Posts: 17
Loc: Long Island New York
I got word from Jstan that he can't claim the FA on E.D.!
Here is the exchange:

Jstan thanks for everything (ass kiss), oh and thanks for Erect Direction

John
Unfortunately I can't take the credit for Erect Direction. Wish I could. That is a Roy Kliegfield route. Killer.
Jstan

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#39932 - 09/21/08 02:24 AM Re: Erect Direction [Re: sketchy john]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2468
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Stannard is both exceedingly modest and factually wrong. The first ascent of Erect Direction was back in the Iron Age, 1966, by Bill Goldner and Dennis Mehmet.

But the first FREE ascent, in 1973, was by Stannard and John Bragg.

My personal opinion is that (done without the hanging belay) this is the best 5.10 in the Gunks.

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#39936 - 09/21/08 06:32 PM Re: Erect Direction [Re: rg@ofmc]
Big Jimmy Offline
stranger

Registered: 08/19/08
Posts: 6
Loc: Hotel Millbrook
Better than Fat City? Or Square Meal? Or Welcome?
Maybe...
Isn't it nice to have so many great 10's that it's hard to decide which is the best?
My vote goes to Fat City.

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#39955 - 09/22/08 08:12 PM Re: Erect Direction [Re: Big Jimmy]
sketchy john Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/20/08
Posts: 17
Loc: Long Island New York
Rich, all i can say is you're probably right on all 3 accounts. I apologise for not differentiating the FA and the FFA and Linking P2 and P3 just makes sense. That's the way i did it on the onsight. I did it with a single (doubles would have helped or back-cleaning the nut next to the P2 undercling). I had so much drag at the top I could barely stand up.

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#48788 - 10/18/09 08:11 PM Re: Erect Direction [Re: sketchy john]
jstan Offline
stranger

Registered: 12/17/06
Posts: 22
Would you believe I can't even picture Erect Direction now? For Kliegfield Follies I can still see the rock. My guide book is in JT so I don't have much information here. I can definitely still see the rock for Sling time.

Forty years is a long time and a lot has been going on the whole time.

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#48818 - 10/19/09 08:38 PM Re: Erect Direction [Re: jstan]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Sounds to me like you need to get your arse back here to clear things up John!

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#49512 - 11/13/09 12:11 AM Re: Erect Direction [Re: RangerRob]
sketchy john Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/20/08
Posts: 17
Loc: Long Island New York
That ones hard to forget from the 4 finger undercling match on the P2 traverse to the strettttttch to reach the tiny triangle under the huge roof starting the exit sequence on P3. That my friend was my persistent.

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#49575 - 11/16/09 11:22 PM Re: Erect Direction [Re: sketchy john]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
funny story on ED. Partner starts out from the hanging belay and just isnt feeling it so i take the lead. Not having been up there, i headed left to the nose and intend to traverse back in left rather than going straight up. looking at the width of the big horizontal, i comment that "I wish I had a #4". From Moonlight I hear, someone say that they have a #4. Looking at the crack again I decide to press my luck and ask for a 5 instead. Dude has a 5 also (on Moonlight...). Figuring that it would be stupid to pass up such a ridiculous gift from the gear gods, i traverse a bit left, pick up the 5 and head on out! Who says that bitching about your lack of gear doesnt help?

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#50628 - 02/25/10 03:04 PM Re: Erect Direction [Re: wombat]
Ivan Rezucha Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/22/03
Posts: 24
Loc: Boulder, CO
Here's my (mildly) funny story of my first time on Erect Direction. We had asked John Stannard about the route, maybe about the gear needed, and he said, "Why don't you go up there and find out?" Thanks John! I went up with Jeff Pofit, my regular partner in those days. I led the first crux, most likely with a bunch of hangs. That bit never got easy for me. Jeff traversed out from the hanging belay and started hand traversing the roof. He realized he couldn't make it and called for tension. I say, "No way" since it looked like he would swing into me. Instead, I gave him slack, and he hit the corner below me. I don't remember who ended up leading that pitch.

Ivan

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#50797 - 03/16/10 02:04 AM Re: Erect Direction [Re: rg@ofmc]
Roy Kligfield Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/16/10
Posts: 16
Loc: Boulder, CO
Just seconding Rich G.'s memory. Dennis Mehmet did the first ascent (I think with Bill Goldner). Dennis then drafted me to do a second ascent, raving about how great the nailing through the roof was and what a great position it was. All of this was good practice for learning aid climbing at the time. Nobody imagined it would go free within the short time period noted.

Does anyone know what happened to Dennis?

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