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#40165 - 09/26/08 04:18 PM Mac-Reppy
sketchy john Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/20/08
Posts: 17
Loc: Long Island New York
Where does P2 of this climb go?
I did it in one pitch and spent about 15 minutes climbing 20 ft on 3 different dead ends (from the tiny tree nut-read-disaster waiting to happen!) before commiting.
Option 1: Left and up around corner. fun, exposed but last 20 ft lichen covered clearly untravelled.
Option 2: straight up over roof through right facing corner, seemed harder than 5.8 and the gear sucks
Option 3: up to roof and bear right 5 feet. Again gear sucks starting out then dirty and sometimes loose but fun and in grade.

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#40166 - 09/26/08 05:58 PM Re: Mac-Reppy [Re: sketchy john]
Dana Offline
addict

Registered: 07/13/00
Posts: 547
I climbed this before and after the hold broke off, and when I first did it (? 1976) 5.8 was the limit of my ability, and I would not have done anything of that grade that was poorly protected (Your options 2 and 3), so probably option # 1 is the true line of ascent. Now that the route is 5.11 and the difficult climbing is so clearly finished after the crux, no one ever goes much higher and lichen has reclaimed the rock.

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#40173 - 09/26/08 11:24 PM Re: Mac-Reppy [Re: sketchy john]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: sketchy john
Option 3: up to roof and bear right 5 feet. Again gear sucks starting out then dirty and sometimes loose but fun and in grade.

That's how I've done it.
_________________________
- Marc

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