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#41873 - 11/20/08 06:46 PM Re: small gear preferences [Re: GOclimb]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
My very meager overall experience is similar to Go’s. I don’t hate Zeros (they are usable) but compared to other small cams:

they are too flexible to place easily,
they get stuck more easily than any other small cam I’ve used
they are wide
small sizes are not strong (specwise)


Edited by Mark Heyman (11/20/08 09:49 PM)
Edit Reason: clarification

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#41874 - 11/20/08 07:30 PM Re: small gear preferences [Re: Mark Heyman]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
I have an extra blue Z5 Zero Cam if anyone wants it. About the same size as a green Alien, very lightly used. $30. I personally find the Zeros to be quite acceptable and they go on my rack when I expect to need lots of fingertip-size cams.

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#41875 - 11/20/08 08:05 PM Re: small gear preferences [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
I agree with Mike on this one. On the very last picture I posted (the single link within a post), the first pitch goes with 6 green C3's (or blue aliens). I have 3 green C3's so I supplement them with 3 yellow zero's.

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#41876 - 11/20/08 08:52 PM Re: small gear preferences [Re: Chas]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2674
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/463325.JPG

That route strikes me as a western version of Bonnie's Roof! (Although looks a wee bit stiffer). Gorgeous.

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#41877 - 11/20/08 09:55 PM Re: small gear preferences [Re: Mike Rawdon]
Mark Heyman Offline
old hand

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1123
Loc: South Jersey (Pinelands)
 Originally Posted By: Mike Rawdon
I personally find the Zeros to be quite acceptable and they go on my rack when I expect to need lots of fingertip-size cams.


I have a couple of Zeros I occasionally use, and recently used a partners.

But, what are you using for small cams when you don't need lots of fingertip-size cams?

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#41879 - 11/21/08 02:12 AM Re: small gear preferences [Re: Mark Heyman]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4269
Loc: Poughkeepsie
My main small cams are blue through red Aliens and/or purple through black Metolius.

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#41883 - 11/21/08 12:52 PM Re: small gear preferences [Re: Mike Rawdon]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Chuck, have you done Monkeyfinger in Zion yet? Seems like you'd be all over that line.

RR

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#41886 - 11/21/08 02:17 PM Re: small gear preferences [Re: RangerRob]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
looking to do Moonlight Buttress this spring (had knee surgery last spring) before Monkeyfingers since Moonlight Butt is suppose to be a far more aestetically pleasing route.

It is a gorgous lines. One of the best lines I've done anywhere in the world (and its just outside of Sedona). You could probably say that its a bit more difficult then Bonnies, P1 goes 5.12a (6 green C3's) P2 goes 5.11d (1 0.4 C4 and 5 0.5 C4's) P3 goes 5.12d (either 7 bolts or the 6 green C3's and a 0.5 C4 if you skip the bolts) P4 goes 5.11b (hand size pieces) and P5 goes 5.11c (wider stuff and hand size pieces)


Edited by Chas (11/21/08 02:19 PM)

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#41891 - 11/21/08 09:32 PM Re: small gear preferences [Re: Chas]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3763
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Smike and I did the first 2 pitches of Monkeyfinger, the second being my first 5.11 lead. The rest of it looked oh so sweet, but oh so hard! Good luck with Moonlight. I have not crossed the river to look at it closely yet, but it definitely stands out

RR

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#42029 - 11/29/08 08:49 PM Re: small gear preferences [Re: RangerRob]
pazreal Offline
journeyman

Registered: 04/01/05
Posts: 85
Loc: Salt Lake City, UT
Just got back from Zion and ended up doing ML. Man oh man do things sloooowwwww down when the sun goes down and the temperature drops.

Wish we had offset nuts to speed some stuff up. Ended up fixing a black alien and ripping a 0 HB Brass offset.

Used a 000 C3 for the first time and it was really cool and I am very impressed with it especially over edges. It perfectly flexes over an edge and instills confidence.

Pics below
http://gallery.mac.com/arthurdebowski#100241&bgcolor=black&view=grid&sel=0

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