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#41610 - 11/13/08 07:35 PM 5.10s with good pros at the crux
gunks Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/01
Posts: 84
Loc: Rosendale, NY
I'll be breaking into 5.10s next season. Any suggestions on "easy" 10s with good pros at the crux?

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#41613 - 11/13/08 07:59 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: gunks]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Try Again, if you trust the pin (I did!)
Criss Cross Direct (low crux though, so have your belayer on high alert)
Turdland Direct (ignore the 10d rating, it's a bolt at your chest!) Get familiar with the route by first doing the 5.9 version.
P-38
Lost City Crack (short jamming crux, totally sew-up-able after the start)

I'm sure others will add to these.

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#41614 - 11/13/08 08:09 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: gunks]
nonya Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 65
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Here's some easy and/or one move wonder with good gear tens:

Dis-Mantle: It has one hard move that easier if tall (I'm 5'8" and I can reach. If you're shorter than that it may be harder). If you mess up the crux it's a very short fall onto your gear. There is a 5.8 roof at the top that is either g or pg (depending on how you feel about a certain placement.).

Criss Cross: great gear. Well defined crux at the bottom. The rest is 5.8 or so.

Tulip Mussel Garden: This is 10+, but it's just one or two hard moves with great gear. There is some runout 5.7 or 5.8 at the bottom, but nothing too bad.

Last Frontier: The gear is great, but I found the crux really awkward. There may be a graceful way to do this, but I didn't find it. Now that I think about it, it isn't a great first 10, but try it anyway, it's a safe lead.


Edited by nonya (11/13/08 08:37 PM)

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#41615 - 11/13/08 08:14 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: nonya]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Retribution (its easy for 10b if you do it right, gear at your waist on the crux) Above it fun 5.9 ish.

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#41616 - 11/13/08 08:18 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Mike Rawdon]
nonya Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 65
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Mike,

P38 is a great climb, and very G, but I don't think it's a good first 10. The gear placements are a little strenuous and there's lots of 9ish climbing before the crux and then there's some run-out easier stuff at the top.

Ah well, no real harm if he tries it, but I still think it might be too much for a first ten.

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#41618 - 11/13/08 08:44 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: nonya]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
I second Tulip Mussel Garden. Clean fall (I know, I took the fall) as long as you don't stick your leg forward or something

Add to the list:
Beatle Brow Bulge
Crass
Elder Cleavage, P1. (Bring a red Alien)


Edited by pedestrian (11/13/08 08:46 PM)

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#41619 - 11/13/08 08:51 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: pedestrian]
fotovult Online   content
member

Registered: 09/01/05
Posts: 136
Loc: ny
never never land - 10a and well protected

check the "breaking into the grade" section under climbing on this site
_________________________
www.chrisvultaggio.com

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#41620 - 11/13/08 09:02 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: nonya]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4275
Loc: Poughkeepsie
 Originally Posted By: nonya
Mike,

P38 is a great climb, and very G, but I don't think it's a good first 10. The gear placements are a little strenuous and there's lots of 9ish climbing before the crux and then there's some run-out easier stuff at the top.

Ah well, no real harm if he tries it, but I still think it might be too much for a first ten.


Yea, you're right. Oh well, we all get to put one climb on our list that shouldn't be. I actually started typing Retribution, but didn't list it since so many people try to tackle the hang the 5.11 way.

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#41621 - 11/13/08 09:03 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: nonya]
GOclimb Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2359
Loc: Boston
Dammit, I asked almost the identical question on Gunks.com, and got back a ton of fantastic advice. I wish I could share it with you, but the search feature doesn't go back that far!!! \:\(

This was from back when Dizzy was posting - I remember a lot of good suggestions from her. Actually, there was a ton more activity on the site back then.

I'll rack my brains and see what I can recall.

GO

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#41623 - 11/13/08 09:09 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: fotovult]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
If Dis-Mantle is the righthand mantle, I couldn't agree less. OTOH, the lefthand mantle is a good choice.

Depending on how you rate things, both Bonnie's Direct and The Dangler are good choices.

Retribution was my first one. Last Frontier is the most godawful climb in the Gunks (unless you like that kind of thing).

Some others not mentioned:

Simple Suff
Size Matters (grey Dick)
City Streets (harder if shorter but doable at 5' 4")
Wegetables

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