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#41610 - 11/13/08 07:35 PM
5.10s with good pros at the crux
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journeyman
Registered: 10/26/01
Posts: 80
Loc: Rosendale, NY
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I'll be breaking into 5.10s next season. Any suggestions on "easy" 10s with good pros at the crux?
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#41614 - 11/13/08 08:09 PM
Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux
[Re: gunks]
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journeyman
Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 62
Loc: Gardiner, NY
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Here's some easy and/or one move wonder with good gear tens:
Dis-Mantle: It has one hard move that easier if tall (I'm 5'8" and I can reach. If you're shorter than that it may be harder). If you mess up the crux it's a very short fall onto your gear. There is a 5.8 roof at the top that is either g or pg (depending on how you feel about a certain placement.).
Criss Cross: great gear. Well defined crux at the bottom. The rest is 5.8 or so.
Tulip Mussel Garden: This is 10+, but it's just one or two hard moves with great gear. There is some runout 5.7 or 5.8 at the bottom, but nothing too bad.
Last Frontier: The gear is great, but I found the crux really awkward. There may be a graceful way to do this, but I didn't find it. Now that I think about it, it isn't a great first 10, but try it anyway, it's a safe lead.
Edited by nonya (11/13/08 08:37 PM)
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#41615 - 11/13/08 08:14 PM
Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux
[Re: nonya]
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Carpal Tunnel
Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
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Retribution (its easy for 10b if you do it right, gear at your waist on the crux) Above it fun 5.9 ish.
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#41616 - 11/13/08 08:18 PM
Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux
[Re: Mike Rawdon]
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journeyman
Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 62
Loc: Gardiner, NY
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Mike,
P38 is a great climb, and very G, but I don't think it's a good first 10. The gear placements are a little strenuous and there's lots of 9ish climbing before the crux and then there's some run-out easier stuff at the top.
Ah well, no real harm if he tries it, but I still think it might be too much for a first ten.
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#41618 - 11/13/08 08:44 PM
Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux
[Re: nonya]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
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I second Tulip Mussel Garden. Clean fall (I know, I took the fall) as long as you don't stick your leg forward or something
Add to the list: Beatle Brow Bulge Crass Elder Cleavage, P1. (Bring a red Alien)
Edited by pedestrian (11/13/08 08:46 PM)
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#41621 - 11/13/08 09:03 PM
Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux
[Re: nonya]
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Pooh-Bah
Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2345
Loc: Boston
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Dammit, I asked almost the identical question on Gunks.com, and got back a ton of fantastic advice. I wish I could share it with you, but the search feature doesn't go back that far!!!  This was from back when Dizzy was posting - I remember a lot of good suggestions from her. Actually, there was a ton more activity on the site back then. I'll rack my brains and see what I can recall. GO
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#41623 - 11/13/08 09:09 PM
Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux
[Re: fotovult]
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veteran
Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
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If Dis-Mantle is the righthand mantle, I couldn't agree less. OTOH, the lefthand mantle is a good choice.
Depending on how you rate things, both Bonnie's Direct and The Dangler are good choices.
Retribution was my first one. Last Frontier is the most godawful climb in the Gunks (unless you like that kind of thing).
Some others not mentioned:
Simple Suff Size Matters (grey Dick) City Streets (harder if shorter but doable at 5' 4") Wegetables
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