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#41628 - 11/13/08 09:20 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: dalguard]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3764
Loc: Ulster County, NY
I'll disagree with Wegetables and Simple Suff. Both have ankle breaking potential at the crux. Simple Suff is slightly better, but still very continuous for the grade. Beatle Brow Bulge is a great choice. Barely 10a in my opinion. Lost City Crack would get a second too. Retribtion I would suggest because it protects well and has a short crux. Criss Cross is a good one.

RR

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#41630 - 11/13/08 09:21 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: dalguard]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
the thought of leading simple suff scares the bejeesus out of me, which probably means that I need to get onto it again and work it into submission. got up it, on toprope, think I even flashed it, but the moves felt tenuous as all hell.

I forgot city streets! That's an excellent climb. when you're 6'3". It's definitely doable if very short, but it's a stretch. That climb is all about wingspan.

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#41635 - 11/13/08 09:44 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: dalguard]
nonya Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 65
Loc: Gardiner, NY
Hi Dawn,

I'm pretty sure I was with you when I first did Dis-Mantle. (I lead "Dis" and you lead "Dat"). You think the left one is easier than the right?!? Yikes. It's not even close for me. Maybe it's a height thing?

Bonnie's Direct is a *great* suggestion. I forgot about that one.
City Streets is good if you trust the pin. I'm completely paranoid about pins so I took half a day rigging up some overly complicated protection so I felt better.

Last Frontier is godawful climbing, for sure. I suggested it because it is very safe and if you're willing to suffer you'll get the tick mark.

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#41636 - 11/13/08 09:48 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: RangerRob]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
I'll disagree with Wegetables and Simple Suff. Both have ankle breaking potential at the crux.

Do other folks agree with Rob here? My end-of-season goal (that didn't happen) was to get on Simple Suff, but ...

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#41638 - 11/13/08 09:51 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Julie]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Wegetables is an easy 10, but a bit tricky on the pro down low. (There is a perfect piece that protects it, but I don't want to give away all the fun)

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#41640 - 11/13/08 09:55 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Julie]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Simple suff is pretty continuous. I was following and thought how glad I was not to have to place the gear.
I'm surprised no one has mentioned Stannards Roof. Great pro and the cleanest fall you will ever have(which I sampled, myself).

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#41642 - 11/13/08 10:07 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: GOclimb]
quanto_the_mad Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/14/02
Posts: 2628
Loc: brooklyn
 Originally Posted By: GOclimb
Dammit, I asked almost the identical question on Gunks.com, and got back a ton of fantastic advice. I wish I could share it with you, but the search feature doesn't go back that far!!! \:\(

This was from back when Dizzy was posting - I remember a lot of good suggestions from her. Actually, there was a ton more activity on the site back then.

I'll rack my brains and see what I can recall.

GO


You can only search a range of 3 years, but can change the range to "newer than 6 years, older than 3 years" and so on to get older posts.

I was thinking of Simple Suff a my first 10 lead a few weeks ago, but after standing at the base and looking at it, decided I'd try something else. So a list would help me as well.
_________________________


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#41643 - 11/13/08 10:09 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: nonya]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
 Originally Posted By: nonya
City Streets is good if you trust the pin. I'm completely paranoid about pins so I took half a day rigging up some overly complicated protection so I felt better.


I've seen that pin hold a fall, and it looks pretty good... memory is hazy but I think there might be a good grey alien backup right next to it. This was not obvious to me the first few times I went up the climb, usually one is too concerned with making the long reach to investigate over to the side there.

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#41646 - 11/13/08 10:24 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: pedestrian]
nonya Offline
journeyman

Registered: 10/26/02
Posts: 65
Loc: Gardiner, NY
 Originally Posted By: pedestrian
 Originally Posted By: nonya
City Streets is good if you trust the pin. I'm completely paranoid about pins so I took half a day rigging up some overly complicated protection so I felt better.


I've seen that pin hold a fall, and it looks pretty good... memory is hazy but I think there might be a good grey alien backup right next to it. This was not obvious to me the first few times I went up the climb, usually one is too concerned with making the long reach to investigate over to the side there.


I agree, the pin did look good. The truth is I don't know how to evaluate pins and the move was hard enough for me that I didn't want to continue without more gear.

I don't mean to scare anyone away from the climb. Just be aware that the crux is protected by a pin and while you can back it up, it took a long time to rig up something I was happy with. Of course, there may be better gear that I missed. Wouldn't be the first time.

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#41647 - 11/13/08 10:50 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: nonya]
sketchy john Offline
stranger

Registered: 09/20/08
Posts: 17
Loc: Long Island New York
Simple suff has no real crux. It IS sustained. You can zip it up with thin nuts if you have good endurance in great stems or you can climb from stance to stance if you're comfortable above gear. The legs take the brunt of this effort.

Falled on account of strain has good gear at the start of the roof (2 cams to start then a yellow Metolius on first tier up left). I think the start of the roof is the crux feeling around blind move above your head to find the jug. the 5.9 P1 is great if you can follow the wandering line. Best as one pitch.

Transcon has great gear with great rests between the 5.10 climbing though the first move is tricky (gear better up under than out right). The slab up top is a bit run out.

Doubletissima has great gear the whole way but pumpy as a link-up.

Rediculissima is fantastic steep face climbing. The series of finger locks are glorious.

Stay away from Graveyard shift, tough shift, the spring, the winter, E.D., and nurses aid.

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