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#41901 - 11/22/08 06:58 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Cornell Climber]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
You can get a good luck at the P2 crux of Feast of Fools from the P1 anchor, but it's a lot harder (and less well-protected) than it looks. Kind of an unexpectedly committing sequence. Easier than P1 though and you can get to the anchor from Hans Puss.

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#41903 - 11/22/08 08:58 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Cornell Climber]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
If youhaven't done the second Pitch of The Feast...you haven't done the route!!

RR

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#41906 - 11/23/08 02:41 AM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: RangerRob]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
Break in Tens...I think Nosedive, Diretississima, Retribution, Disneyland Direct is an excellent suggestion, Simple Suff, Criss Cross Direct, Standards roof, p38.

When I climbed it last someone had slammed a new pin into City Streets....it was quite nice looking in comparison to when I first climbed it.

Birdie Party I think is a pretty good one. The crux is well protected and its about one move, but there is pg climbing on it.
I'd put this after the ones above.

Never Never Land similar. Well protected crux some pg climbing on it though. I'd put this after the ones above.

Wegetables I think is light for the grade and protects pretty well, but I would be a little less excited at a first 10.

I like frustration syndrome. I think the crux is very well protected but some pg climbing elsewhere.

Fat Stick Direct I don't like. I think even if you get 1/2 through the crux and get some gear in and clip it with a single carabiner, you can still break an ankle. I think this climb is pg-r

Nurses Aid similar, more involved not a break into the grade. Same with Welcome to the Gunks. Definately, no for tough shift....Graveyard shift? I question that one as a break into the 5.11- grade.

DisMantle and Dat Mantle I seem to remember one move climbs with pretty good pro, but not super interesting. Not a great one to break in on as far as enjoyment.

No for MF direct although its an easy 5.10.

Star action, no. Try again easier, but not a break into the grade climb. No for E.D. or Fat City. No for Feast of Fools. No for Falled on Account of Strain. No for Bird Cage
No for Transcont. The crux is well protected. The slab move beforehand is not super well protected. The 5.8 above is a bit runnout.

Elder Cleavage Direct I think can wait until you have a few done. Day Tripper Direct? well protected but is probably somewhere between 5.10a and 5.10d depending on your height and its not that interesting. Hang ten is ok. Outer Space Direct is 5.10b to 5.10d and I think is not a great one to start on. No to the Hounds....No to Muriel's Nose.

I think this covers most of the 5.10a and 5.10b routes that get a star and are reasonable.

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#41910 - 11/23/08 03:45 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: BobbyS]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Bobby, that's one of the most coherent set of recommendations I've ever seen on this site. You managed to cut throught the fog that almost invariably develops as people ignore the original question and just blab on, usually with the result that almost everything at the grade ends up being recommended by someone.

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#41913 - 11/23/08 05:36 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: rg@ofmc]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
The only one that Bobby said that I would disagree with is Doubleissima. The climbing is extremely pumpy and sustained. Gear, while plentiful everywhere is pumpy to get in and not something you want to be doing on a first 5.10. The moves off of the ledge are also difficult, sequential and sustained. While very safe if you get the gear in it is not one that I would want to be doing as an introduction to the grade. The grade is also all over the place in the guide books from 10b to 10d. Where there are no killer hard moves on it, the sustained nature of the climb would lead me to think of this as more of a 10c route. I have done it many times, always get it, but it is never easy. Always great though.

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#41914 - 11/23/08 07:32 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Coppertone]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Yeah, actually, I agree with Dave on Double-issima. Not to mention that the first pitch (or initial section if you do the whole thing in one pitch) although 5.8, is PG if you get the protection right and otherwise worse...

Still, I like Bobby's inclination to rule out things that aren't really ideal for the first foray rather than letting everything but the kitchen sink accumulate.

Just an aside, but isn't it really the case that the best first 5.10's to do are some of the 5.9's? Or to put it another way, do these 5.9's as part of the transition to 5.10? Le Teton, Keep on Struttin', and Proctoscope come to mind...

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#41915 - 11/23/08 07:46 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: rg@ofmc]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
 Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc

Just an aside, but isn't it really the case that the best first 5.10's to do are some of the 5.9's? Or to put it another way, do these 5.9's as part of the transition to 5.10? Le Teton, Keep on Struttin', and Proctoscope come to mind...


Along those lines you could also include Protorsilex(has some 7R on it), first pitch Falled on Account of Strain, Insulation.

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#41920 - 11/24/08 04:05 AM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Coppertone]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
Plenty of 9s I did after I broke into 10s but that's the way it works. If I'd waited until I'd done all the hard 7s before starting the 8s, I'd still be on 7s. Nothing wrong with stretching out feelers into the next grade.

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#41934 - 11/24/08 03:56 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: dalguard]
Frank Florence Offline
addict

Registered: 01/05/00
Posts: 528
Loc: moved to Bend
I’ve recently been venturing out on my first 10s at the Gunks and my impression is that it’s a bigger step than between other grades. Getting beta on routes that protect well at the crux is helpful. So is getting time in on the harder 9s. That definitely helped me gain confidence with hanging out while placing gear, moving beyond pro on longer runouts in the “easier” sections, and acquiring somewhat better technique on steep face. Unfortunately, it hasn’t helped with those stinkin’ long reaches.

Regarding the routes themselves, on the half dozen or so climbs I’ve done, the recommendations given above (e.g. Mike Rawdon, BobbyS, and GOclimb) closely match my own experience.

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#41945 - 11/24/08 10:13 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: rg@ofmc]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
 Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Bobby, that's one of the most coherent set of recommendations I've ever seen on this site. You managed to cut throught the fog that almost invariably develops as people ignore the original question and just blab on, usually with the result that almost everything at the grade ends up being recommended by someone.


Well if all the work I put into re-entering what I consider to be very useful beta about *exactly* this question is "blabbing on" - then I'm sorry, but I will simply remind you that I'm not posting for your benefit (as you and BobbyS clearly already know everything.) Rather, I did so for the benefit of the OP, who I thought would find it as useful as I did (extremely!) when it was first posted.

As to my addition of FoF being a bad one, if you feel that way, please go ahead and just say why.

If your opinion is simply that it's not sportsmanlike to get on it if you're not ready for the second pitch, then that's a valid opinion, but not one that everyone will share, I think.

GO

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