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#41951 - 11/25/08 02:47 AM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: GOclimb]
rg@ofmc Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Don't get your undies in a twist, Gabe, I wasn't talking about you. I wasn't talking about anyone in particular. Just noting a general tendency when advice is sought for the community to end up recommending just about everything, at which point the totality of the recommendations adds up to no recommendation. I thought Bobby cut through that rather well.

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#41956 - 11/25/08 01:40 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: GOclimb]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
Gabe, meant to say this earlier - I really appreciate the time you spent collecting & typing all that in. When I'm looking for recommendations, I prefer to collect data from n >> 1, so your post is really valuable.

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#41963 - 11/25/08 04:09 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Julie]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
RG, I agree that BobbyS's post is a fine one. But it's not the be-all-end-all post on the subject.

 Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Don't get your undies in a twist, Gabe, I wasn't talking about you. I wasn't talking about anyone in particular.


Yes, I noticed that. You were casting aspersions on more or less everyone in general, rather than anyone in specific. But I seemed to fit the mold you cast as well or better than anyone else. Pardon me if I don't like the constriction of said mold very well, and say so.

 Quote:
Just noting a general tendency when advice is sought for the community to end up recommending just about everything, at which point the totality of the recommendations adds up to no recommendation. I thought Bobby cut through that rather well.


Surely you've noticed that in threads like this, many very experienced folks with good memory for beta have very different recollections of climbs?

What's one man's meat is another man's poison, and the chance to triangulate between the different positions of multiple posters is invaluable.

And, frankly, if just one person suggests a climb that everyone else thinks is a piss-poor idea, that says far more about that climb than if it had never been brought up.

GO

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#41964 - 11/25/08 04:21 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: GOclimb]
Julie Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 01/16/00
Posts: 2090
Loc: SoCal
 Originally Posted By: GOclimb
What's one man's meat is another man's poison, and the chance to triangulate between the different positions of multiple posters is invaluable.

And, frankly, if just one person suggests a climb that everyone else thinks is a piss-poor idea, that says far more about that climb than if it had never been brought up.


I agree with this. Plus, at 5.10, I think people have a better idea of where their individual strengths lie - and which route might fit them better. I'm better off trying Nosedive or Simple Suff than Hang Ten or the Mantles, but for some(most)one else, it might be the opposite.

I think RG's point - that recommendations become a mismash of everything in the sink - is perhaps more valid at lower grades, where people haven't developed a keen sense of where their individual strengths are. Someone who's just blowing through 5.7 might not have the experience, or have really been challenged enough yet, to tell whether Airy Area or Modern Times is or isn't a good first 5.8 for them, for instance.

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#41965 - 11/25/08 04:45 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Julie]
dalguard Offline
veteran

Registered: 03/22/00
Posts: 1515
Loc: CT
I must say I thought everyone on the thread was being helpful. I keep a list of 10s that I could try, divided into "try now" and "try later". The routes I recommended in this thread are ones I've either already led or that are on my "try now" list. As a person who is only one and a half seasons into 5.10 and a coward, I think I'm a decent judge of where to start. But other people have taken different paths and have different opinions and that'll always be true (and beneficial).

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#41973 - 11/25/08 07:11 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: dalguard]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
Brilliant post Bobby...

It's funny to read words from long ago, especially when I'm clipping bolts out here at Smith these days.

Gabe, I think the quotes were taken from a thread about good starter 10's with clean falls...which is slightly different than the easy print layout that Bobby wrote up. Thanks for posting that digest though, it was fun to revisit.

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#41974 - 11/25/08 07:12 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: crackers]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
IMHO, btw, simple suff is a lot like Ant's line...you can sew it up as much as you want. And I seem to recall that the beginning of it protects with a small alien or two.

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#41979 - 11/25/08 08:17 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: crackers]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
 Originally Posted By: crackers
Gabe, I think the quotes were taken from a thread about good starter 10's with clean falls...which is slightly different than the easy print layout that Bobby wrote up. Thanks for posting that digest though, it was fun to revisit.


IIRC, the question I asked way back when was what were starter 10s that would be reasonably protectable. Of course people answered the question as they saw it. Which is fine (with me).

GO

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#41980 - 11/25/08 08:26 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: GOclimb]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
 Originally Posted By: GOclimb

IIRC, the question I asked way back when was what were starter 10s that would be reasonably protectable. Of course people answered the question as they saw it. Which is fine (with me).

GO


I believe you. ;\)

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#41988 - 11/25/08 11:54 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: crackers]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Hey, some of us are getting old and don't climb so hard anymore. Perhaps someone can draw up a list of good start 5.3's with clean falls. *wink wink*

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