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#42496 - 12/31/08 12:53 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: pedestrian]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
I think feast of fools is a later one for a few reasons....
The main reason being that it is a solid midrange 5.10. You are hit with some moves at the first roof and then it is solid around the pins. I felt that I needed extra gear for this route that most don't carry for most Gunks routes.... I like two #2 camalots b/c I like one as a directional early on. I think I also thought I could do with an extra #3 camalot and/or an extra #1 camalot.... I climbed it the first time on a single set of stoppers and cams, but remember wanting more larger cams and moving them here and then there or going back to get them....

I also didn't think the two pins at the crux inspired lots of confidence although I thought they would hold....thought they were a bit awkward to clip and thought you had to go a bit afterwards....

The second pitch is 5.10pg. All in all, its a great climb, but I think there are easier and less involved 5.10s and am not sure I would want it to be my first 5.10.

I fully realize that some people may think that this is an easy one to break into.

I agree with climbing all the hard 5.9s first.

Some other ones....no to men at arms or the other two 5.9+ to 5.10 routes to the right of MF. No to Shitface although I think the crux is well protected and not such a hard one.

No for Elder Cleavage....More involved midrange 5.10 that a lot of people have hit the ledge on, on the second pitch.....

No to Live Free or Die....

No to Face to Face...No to Amber Waves of Pain its a tough, PG 5.9+ or harder and the title gives away the ankle breaking anguish of the fall on the first ascent....

I don't like Falled on Account of Strain because I recall some more pg climbing...but remember it being a nice fall from the crux

Doubleissima....its pumpy....it seems a lot easier than Rediculissima so I still think 5.10b. There is a move to start the crux section that is protected by a smaller wire...from there , there is lots of gear....I agree that something like Disneyland direct probably has easier gear to place (pre-place) and less thinking...

No to Stirrup Trouble. It is sustained, PG, and involved....double ropes I think are necessary (or split your rope in half).

All those other ones around Never Never Land are either scary (Never Again) or hard (J'Accuse)

I think Balrog is hard 5.10.

The 5.9+ that crosses mainline is a pretty solid one....and a nice climb...involved....Badfinger is a solid 5.9. Agree with all the others...insulation...obstacle of delusion (? grade as being something like 5.9 although it is listed as 5.8+ and 5.10- in different books)...Agree Le Teton, Protoscope and the other 5.9+ there...protorsilex, keep on Struttin. If Lisa is 5.9?+ that is a good one.

I agree that one person's 5.10 is another's 5.9 and vice versa. Some harder climbs that are safer may be better ones to start on, but I think there are plenty of well protected 5.10a/b's to start on.

Have fun...be safe...happy new years....

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#42531 - 01/05/09 10:00 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: BobbyS]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Falled on the Account of Strain isn't that bad of PG. If I remember right , by the time you get to the next horizontial that takes gear, you are either standing on the horizontal that has your last piece of gear or you have done one or two moves above that. Near the ground you do want to be careful. since a fall with gear at your feet can mean your butt is on the ground.

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#42533 - 01/05/09 11:16 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Chas]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
The gear on Falled really is not that bad. There is no gear for the first 10 feet or so, but if you are going to be leading a 5.10 then no gear for the first few feet on easy face climbing should not be an issue. After that the gear on the first pitch is adequate. You get very good gear at the crux of the first pitch, but do have to go a little ways above it after the crux to the small ledge for your next gear. This is a clean fall with nothing to hit. The second pitch is just complete fun, however if you are not with someone who has previously done the route, routefinding on where to exit can be challenging. Also once you commit to the moves it can get pumpy in a hurry especially if you are not used to this type of climbing, which if this is a first 5.10 you are likely not. A fall up top could be all air or could be messy, especially if you get behind the rope or if you wind up swinging in. This climb is great when done in one pitch. While I think that it is a pretty easy tick for a Gunks 5.10 it might not be the best choice as a first 5.10 due to slight runouts, big exposure, routefinding, pump and commitment(once you start up through the overhangs your not coming back)


Edited by Coppertone (01/05/09 11:17 PM)

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#42543 - 01/07/09 02:04 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: Coppertone]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
*GEAR BETA WARNING* (on Falled)

if there are any other complete chickens like me out there, you might find a little section on the first pitch a little nervy. the 1st 10 feet of unprotected never bothered me. bring a blue lowe ball and look for a tiny little place to put it when you are feeling like you need it...

a great pitch... the 2nd also great but have not led it...
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#42567 - 01/10/09 06:17 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: phlan]
retr2327 Offline
member

Registered: 06/14/07
Posts: 108
Route finding Beta Warning - Falled on Account of Strain:

The first ten feet aren't bad at all if you start well to the left of the crack. You don't need a Lowe ball or any other sort of fancy trickery.

If you go straight up the crack, however, it's a whole different story . . . .

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#42574 - 01/11/09 03:39 AM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: retr2327]
phlan Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 02/11/00
Posts: 2778
Loc: Gardiner, NY
perhaps I should be more specific. it was not for the first ten feet. I am not THAT chicken. or at least I was not. I was recommending the blue lowe ball for up higher. at an unspecified location. not to give it all away. have fun, it's all good.
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#42588 - 01/12/09 04:25 PM Re: 5.10s with good pros at the crux [Re: retr2327]
Coppertone Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/17/00
Posts: 1055
Loc: Newtown, CT
 Originally Posted By: retr2327
Route finding Beta Warning - Falled on Account of Strain:

The first ten feet aren't bad at all if you start well to the left of the crack. You don't need a Lowe ball or any other sort of fancy trickery.

If you go straight up the crack, however, it's a whole different story . . . .


There really are not any route finding issues on the first pitch. It is the second pitch where I have seen many a leader not be able to find the correct spot at which to tackle the overhangs. This can lead to backing off or going through the overhangs at a much higher grade.

As far as gear goes on the first pitch I really don't see any need for a Lowe Ball any where. The pitch protects quite well with nothing smaller than a green alien.

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