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#43021 - 02/09/09 07:23 PM arizona
fixie Offline
stranger

Registered: 04/27/07
Posts: 7
Hey! Heading to arizona next week. Thinking of hitting up Mt Lemmon and maybe cochese. Anyone have any favorite areas?
Thanks!

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#43023 - 02/09/09 07:55 PM Re: arizona [Re: fixie]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Browndog2 was out there last year.

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#43024 - 02/09/09 08:32 PM Re: arizona [Re: chip]
cfa Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 07/23/02
Posts: 259
Loc: Upper Valley NH
At Mt Lemmon, we seem to always spend a lot of time at Windy Point, and the one or two pull-outs before the main one. You may already know this, but if you haven't been to Lemmon before, and plan to use "Squeezing the Lemmon II" as your guidebook, it's very very handy to go to mountainproject.com and copy the mile marker changes. They massively overhauled the highway up there, and moved the mile marker posts. The first couple of times we were there, we spent a ton of time wandering around trying to figure out which formations were where, only to find out that the mile markers weren't quite right. It's much more fun to go there now that we kind of know the lay of the land. I've only climbed at Cochise once, at Sheepshead (which was great), so I can't say anything comparative about the other areas there. But it's a great place to climb.

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#43026 - 02/09/09 08:53 PM Re: arizona [Re: cfa]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Depends on what you like , how long you are going to be there..... This week Az is getting hit hard with weather, 12 inches of snow in No Az yesterday, 22" today ..... which will probably translate to a good drenching in So Az.

If you really like long indian creek like sandstone routes (and assuming the weather is good) check out Sedona about 1 hr north of Phoenix. The routes range from chossy, to ok, to great to one of the best routes I've ever done in the world, bar none.

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#43215 - 02/22/09 01:26 AM Re: arizona [Re: Chas]
Jim Lawyer Offline
member

Registered: 08/23/00
Posts: 157
Loc: Pompey, NY
Chas, I've gotta ask, which route at Sedona get such high praise? I haven't been there, but those words may compel me to visit :-)

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#43227 - 02/23/09 02:35 PM Re: arizona [Re: Jim Lawyer]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
The route is Shangrila. I haven't gotten onto Moonlight Buttress (hopefully in April) but this is supposed to be nearly as good, but when compared to Rainbow Wall (which is supposed to be one of the best long routes in Red Rocks, Shangrila makes Rainbow Wall look like a pile of kitty litter. It sits about an hour hike up Lost Canyon which is a side branch of Damfino Canyon, but if you do ever want to try it, ask and I can give you better directions then found in either the web or guidebooks

Just two views
http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/463325.JPG and http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/463299.JPG

it is stiff though. P1; 512.a (tips crack or most men go to the arete, 5-6 green C3's (blue aliens). P2: 5.11d fingers lieback flake (skip the two bolts since it will drag your rope into the flake), 2 grey 0.4, and 4 purple 0.5 camalots, P3 5.12d 2 blue 0.3 camalots and 6 bolts or skip the bolts and use 6 green C3's (blue aliens), P4 5.11c varied hands take gear between 0.4 and 3.0 camalot, P5 5.11c (some will say 5.11d) has a wider section but same rack as as pitch 4.

If you are in Sedona and hit up this one (though the rock isn't as awesome as Shangrila), also try Castles in the Sand (5.11d) http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/492275.JPG . P1: beautiful 5.11 rnglocks that seems more like Indian Creek, P2: 5.11d handjam out a 6-7ft roof and jam your way up easier ground to a second roof. P3 5.11d: traverse out a 20ft roof out a fist crack , pull the edge and belay.


Edited by Chas (02/23/09 02:46 PM)

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#43233 - 02/23/09 05:08 PM Re: arizona [Re: Chas]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Unlikely I'll be dragging my old butt up those, but very impressive looking. I'm amazed at the climbs in the Sedona area you've shown us. I had no idea.

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#43234 - 02/23/09 05:40 PM Re: arizona [Re: chip]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Also check out the latest Climbing" magazine in the Gallery section. There is a photo of "Mission from Mars" which is about 500ft to the left of "Castles in the Sands". Its a sports climb. Biggest holds you'll ever fall off of(and overhangs 25-35ft in 85ft).

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#43238 - 02/23/09 06:13 PM Re: arizona [Re: Chas]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: Chas
Biggest holds you'll ever fall off of(and overhangs 25-35ft in 85ft).

I always thought that honor fell to Fourteen Shutouts (11d) at Skaha!
_________________________
- Marc

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#43239 - 02/23/09 06:23 PM Re: arizona [Re: MarcC]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
 Originally Posted By: MarcC
 Originally Posted By: Chas
Biggest holds you'll ever fall off of(and overhangs 25-35ft in 85ft).

I always thought that honor fell to Fourteen Shutouts (11d) at Skaha!


Haven't been to Skaha yet (have been meaning to for a decade or so) but this thing you could get a buttcheek on most of the holds!!!!

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