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#43038 - 02/10/09 09:49 PM Whitney Gilman
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
My friend Jason put this video together from climbing the Whitney Gilman Direct last August.
youtube whitney gilman video
The next day we climbed the NE Ridge of pinnacle buttress direct in Huntington's. We were getting 40mph gusts which made the slabby moves exciting. Wait for a lull, do the move, wait for a lull do the move...just like in the big mountains. We hiked to the summit in steady 60 mph winds. The summit wind chill was 19F, not too balmy for August in New England.
The summit...
summit wind
The previous season we climbed the Mechanics Route which is the closest thing in the East to climbing in the Rocky Mountains. What a stellar route but it's a bit short but still worth the hike!

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#43101 - 02/16/09 11:59 PM Re: Whitney Gilman [Re: cfrac]
J@son Offline
member

Registered: 06/23/08
Posts: 101
Loc: New Jersey
diggin the funky climbin music.
_________________________
Labor Omnia Vincit

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#43354 - 03/03/09 04:03 PM Re: Whitney Gilman [Re: J@son]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Okay, I'm thinking they chose those belays for the filming perspective. Six pitches for the direct? I normally do the regular route in 4, and the direct can be done in 3 with just a little simul climbing at the end of every pitch. They split the first pitch into two pitches. You can easily climb from the ground up through the little detached pinnacle and the step left, and up to the big traingle ledge belay in one pitch. Their third belay was right at the pipe move, which seems like an awkward place to belay. The direct goes straight up to the pipe from the first pitch belay, a distance of about 100-120 feet or so. From what I remember, you can run all the way to the their last belay from there. Then the long last pitch and you're done in 3 longish pitches. Like I said, they must have split it up like that in order to film certain sections.

RR

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#43386 - 03/07/09 03:34 PM Re: Whitney Gilman [Re: RangerRob]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
I've done it in three pitches both times I've been on the route and both times took the 5.8 crack variation to the right. Last July 4th we (climbing as a three)avoided a big line at the regular start by starting about 30ft up and right in the Black Dyke gully on some low 5th class and a 60m rope-stretcher up to the base of the ramp below the 5.8 crack variation. Continued up the 5.8 crack, coming in to the pipe from the backside (steep and very fun)and then on to the regular route (maybe 40m). Last pitch was another 60m rope stretcher to the top. Didn't simo at all going that way..




 Originally Posted By: RangerRob
Okay, I'm thinking they chose those belays for the filming perspective. Six pitches for the direct? I normally do the regular route in 4, and the direct can be done in 3 with just a little simul climbing at the end of every pitch. They split the first pitch into two pitches. You can easily climb from the ground up through the little detached pinnacle and the step left, and up to the big traingle ledge belay in one pitch. Their third belay was right at the pipe move, which seems like an awkward place to belay. The direct goes straight up to the pipe from the first pitch belay, a distance of about 100-120 feet or so. From what I remember, you can run all the way to the their last belay from there. Then the long last pitch and you're done in 3 longish pitches. Like I said, they must have split it up like that in order to film certain sections.

RR

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