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#43061 - 02/12/09 10:49 AM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: RangerRob]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
I think the exit move on Kansas City is hard too. It's very difficult to turn the lip. Someone mentioned p38 which is great until the crack ends, the free climbing moves above aren't bad free climbing but are super hard with all that crap hanging off your harness. I like Nosedive, a few small nuts low and the rest is great.

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#43062 - 02/12/09 01:01 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: cfrac]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
looks like 3 votes for nosedive!
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#43066 - 02/12/09 06:48 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: empicard]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
I think most of the responses are missing the point of Tasty's question. He wants to learn more about nut placements by aiding with them. The climb should have lots of nut placements and little to distract from placing and testing them. Severely verhanging rock really doesn't fit the bill well for this, too much energy and technique goes into maintaining position, and daisies, fifi-hooks, and other aid accouterments become more important.

So, I think he's looking for vertical or less than vertical routes that can be done primarily with nuts. To this I'd add another condition: not a super-popular climb. Otherwise, in addition to Nosedive and P-38, there would be Double Crack, Bonney's Roof, Eastertime Too. P1 of Erect Direction, P1 of the Spring, Simple Suff (not too overhanging I think), and on and on and on. If you spend all day aiding a three-star free route, someone might try to kill you, and they'd have a point---it would be pretty inconsiderate. Maybe on a very light weekday or a rainy weekend.

Finger locks would be ideal, I think. What else?

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#43067 - 02/12/09 07:13 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: rg@ofmc]
mr.tastycakes Offline
newbie

Registered: 12/07/08
Posts: 25
perfect. you guys rock.

and don't worry, i'm sensitive to the overcrowding issues, especially on classics during the weekends. i'm planning to do this in the upcoming weekends while the weather is still crappy, the cliffs are wet, and the place is empty.

Fraser - given the time it currently takes me to set a nut, you may want to take several books. I might need a headlamp \:\)

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#43068 - 02/12/09 08:05 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: rg@ofmc]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Finger locks would be ideal, I think.

I feel it's too low angle, which makes for awkward aid (meaning the easy free climbing and abundance of holds get in the way of the aid). The crack kinda peters out early, too. I'd suggest something within 10 degrees of vertical. Many have already been suggested.
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#43069 - 02/13/09 01:29 AM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: cfrac]
Fraser Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 701
Loc: New Canaan, CT
 Originally Posted By: cfrac
Someone mentioned p38 which is great until the crack ends, the free climbing moves above aren't bad free climbing but are super hard with all that crap hanging off your harness.


Ah well, that's where hooks come in handy! You're right though it is either a 5.9 mantle or a hook move and then its easy again.

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#43071 - 02/13/09 04:37 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: cfrac]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Yes, the exit move on Kansas City is the hardest part. And I agree that the gear is all fairly straightforward. But it's not what the OP is looking for - a point I wanted to clarify.

On a cold or rainy winter day, I don't think tying up a Ken's Crack, Rhododendron, or Finger Locks is going to be an issue.

Anyway, those three would be my recommendations.

One thing, though: Because of the diagonal nature of the crack on Ken's, nutcraft can be a lot trickier, because a nut can easily get pulled "up" relative to the crack. Also, if you fall and rip a piece or two, you're not as far off the ground. Just a few things to keep in mind.

So maybe Rhododendron and Finger Locks (bring your hexes on both) might be better choices.

GO

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#43072 - 02/13/09 04:40 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: GOclimb]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
Anyone have an opinion on Ant's Line? I remember it taking tons of great nuts when I led it (free), but I can't recall if the crack is discontinuous up higher.

GO

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#43073 - 02/13/09 04:49 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: MarcC]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2362
Loc: Boston
 Originally Posted By: MarcC
 Originally Posted By: rg@ofmc
Finger locks would be ideal, I think.

I feel it's too low angle, which makes for awkward aid (meaning the easy free climbing and abundance of holds get in the way of the aid). The crack kinda peters out early, too. I'd suggest something within 10 degrees of vertical. Many have already been suggested.


I think it wouldn't be bad for a first aid lead. Especially if he's going solo. Gives him a chance to make every beginner mistake, and free climb out of any cluster fucks he gets himself into.

After that, I agree, something steeper would be better for all the reasons you gave. I'm not familiar with Nose Dive as an aid climb, but if it's as good as all of you suggest, it sounds perfect.

It's too bad there's nothing like Crow Hill's Jane at the Gunks. Short, steep, and one continuous vertical nut crack.

One piece of advice - if you've never aided before, pick something short. It's going to take you waaay longer than you think, and you don't want to get benighted while you're alone, in the cold/wet, and working out stuff you've never done before.

GO

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#43076 - 02/13/09 05:25 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: GOclimb]
rg@ofmc Online   content
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/25/99
Posts: 2472
Loc: Poughkeepsie, NY
Ant's line would work if you can get up the first ten feet or so. Might have to free climb that (or maybe aid off big cams?)

Which brings up another point worth mentioning: if you free climb up any distance to the first aid placement, that placement has got to be bomber, because you don't want it to blow and cause a ground fall. I speak from hard experience here, and am lucky to have survived the landing I had, which was on my back between two very sharp pointed boulders.

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