Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 13 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 >
Topic Options
#43130 - 02/18/09 12:04 PM How has your climbing season been?
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
So? How's the season coming along? Everyone knows it has been a pretty exciting season thus far. I did my first day on ice in the Catskills in November...which has never happened before. After that it has been slow, but good. So far my best route has been PT on Poke-O-Moonshine..I'm sure like everyone else. Man....that whole route was in 3+ conditions. First pitch was so fat and stepped out I don't think I swumg more than twice for any tool placement. Pitch two was not as hacked, but still in beautiful shape. The rock and chimney was completely filled in, leaving only a short grade 4 crux. It was my first time on the route, and I can't brag that I have actually led it because it was so easy, but still, it was amazing.

So how has yours been? The rock has been real good lately too. Been out two times this past week.

RR

Top
#43131 - 02/18/09 01:53 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: RangerRob]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 196
Loc: NY, USA
This season has rocked! Uh, no pun intended. I got out a couple times in early December, and have been out at least once, and sometimes twice, each week since New Years. I've climbed with a variety of partners old and new. Haven't had a bad day yet, though finding a coyote in a leg-hold trap did put a damper on things one day. I've gotten more comfortable following W4's, including one W4+ route I did twice in 3 days. I did my first ice lead on an easy W2 line on Bridal Veil Falls. And the fun continues!

Kathy :^D

Top
#43139 - 02/18/09 06:05 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: KathyS]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Sweet!! Sounds like you are having a great time being out there in the cold. The best climber is the one having the most fun

Top
#43154 - 02/19/09 03:16 AM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: RangerRob]
J@son Offline
member

Registered: 06/23/08
Posts: 101
Loc: New Jersey
I don't have ice gear or a leader for ice. But I did manage to get out for a couple pitches on rock two weeks ago. For now I'm just trying to get shaped up for the spring.
_________________________
Labor Omnia Vincit

Top
#43166 - 02/19/09 03:50 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: J@son]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
An excellent outing in the winter is to do a traverse of the GT Ledge. From just right of Frog's Had to who knows where...(actually I have never finished it). I've only gone as far as Double Crack. Great fun..lots of running belays, and a few belayed pitches.

Top
#43182 - 02/19/09 11:43 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: RangerRob]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
Y'all know I'm more of a backcountry skier than an ice climber, but I got out on ice one day. We did the Central Pillar of Pitchoff (on the right-hand, WI3+ easy side) and it was the first time I'd climbed waterfall ice since 2005. In general I had quite a bit of trouble getting good sticks with my front points, basically I wasn't able to to frontpoint any of the crux and resorted to kicking steps the whole way.

It was a warm day, 40F or so, and I was using a pair of Grivel G14s that are pretty beaten up and maybe need filing (they used to be rentals at IME, and I bought them at end of season.) My friend Andrew, who was leading, seems to think that the secondary front points are set too far back for my boots (?)

Pretty ugly though.. I resorted to hanging on the rope once or twice; had some clearance issues with the picks too, everything on that side is a little recessed.

Top
#43190 - 02/20/09 12:56 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: pedestrian]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
 Originally Posted By: pedestrian
I wasn't able to to frontpoint any of the crux and resorted to kicking steps the whole way.



Huh?


and, I hope you wore a helmet this time?
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Top
#43211 - 02/21/09 12:22 AM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: empicard]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
I've been out every weekend since Thanksgiving or thereabouts. Bailed off CHiller PIllar again, but last year I made it about ten feet. This year, about 2/3 way up. Also led the first pitch of Spike (yay no ice) and some otehr piddly stuff. I'm not leading any harder but apparently I am "more solid" whatever that means so yay. I feel like Im finally getting the hang of really swinging my Quarks well, but I just ordered myself Nomics, so we'll see how they work for the rest of the season. I definitely feel like I'm crying less on the steep steep ice!!!
Boo car trouble forcing me to buy a new car and take this weekend off!!!!!

Also did 4 rollies in a rollies circle and that's the new female record at the bivy for the season \:\) It;s a good thing not too many strong chicks actually come by and even fewer do rollies!!!
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#43219 - 02/22/09 03:45 AM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Aya]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
Er, what's a rollie?

Top
#43235 - 02/23/09 05:46 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: chip]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
painful
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#43236 - 02/23/09 05:47 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Aya]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#43237 - 02/23/09 05:51 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Aya]
pedestrian Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 08/05/02
Posts: 2244
Loc: a heavily fortified bunker!
em, yeah I wore a fricking helmet! and eye protection.. but hey thanks for your ever so useful response.

Top
#43246 - 02/23/09 11:02 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Aya]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2677
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
 Originally Posted By: Aya
http://www.neice.com/tv/movies/Joe_Rollies.html


Joe looks like he's in some kind of ZONE. I'm sorry, that looks way too painful to emulate. Maybe it helps make your woman happy, in which case I would probably scream and hurt myself all the time.

Top
#43249 - 02/23/09 11:46 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: chip]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
They mostly just give me an excuse to climb like a pussy the day after.
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#43253 - 02/24/09 02:11 AM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Aya]
KathyS Offline
member

Registered: 01/10/08
Posts: 196
Loc: NY, USA
The ending is hilarious! Had to do those in PT when I was recovering from a wrist fracture, but with a lot less weight. PT hurts. It gives you an incentive to not break anything ever again.

Kathy

Top
#43340 - 02/27/09 10:50 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: RangerRob]
smallclimber Offline
stranger

Registered: 01/04/08
Posts: 9
Loc: NJ
Thirteen days so far, all in the Catskills, not bad for weekend warriers. First time back on ice after a 3 year gap, so we were pleased to lead some 2+ and 3. Hoping maybe 1 or 2 weekends left this season.

Top
#43341 - 02/27/09 11:11 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: smallclimber]
Rickster Offline
old hand

Registered: 10/16/07
Posts: 850
Loc: Orange Cty, NY
A not so fun variation on the wrist roller (rollies). Change the diameter of the handle. Wider the harder. Once you can't wrap your thumb around it, it gets even more effective/painful/insane. Holding it up higher and or using a longer strap will also add to the effort. RC

Top
#43347 - 03/02/09 09:32 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Rickster]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Well I did my first leashless lead yesterday (Central Pillar). Now that I have nomics, I might actually like this leashless thing!!!!!
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#43348 - 03/02/09 09:44 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Aya]
Smike Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 05/01/01
Posts: 3143
Loc: in your backyard
Nice, must have also been from the shots of Jameson from the authentic Cascade pass ice luge the night before...no?

Top
#43349 - 03/02/09 10:01 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Smike]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
No, that was before, actually. Sunday we did a new route up at the upper tiers... and I got hauled through the crux!!! \:\)
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#43350 - 03/02/09 10:01 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Aya]
Aya Offline
old hand

Registered: 11/18/04
Posts: 754
Loc: Climbing somewhere
Oh. I see. I'm a dummy. "Yesterday" means "Saturday".
_________________________
Gunks T-Shirts!

Top
#43825 - 03/27/09 12:17 AM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Aya]
acdnyc Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 11/10/04
Posts: 208
Loc: NYC/Kerhonkson
Got two days in this week.

Tuesday on the Black Dike, we where the 4th party that day. Parking lot and back in 6 hours with at least an hour of waiting for the party ahead of us to clear the second/crux pitch.

First time on the Dike and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be. I led the second pitch and the rock traverse was pretty easy with a fixed sling in the middle of it. The transition to ice was tricky and the ice was near vertical, hacked out and brittle but not bad. I didn't put in any pro until the top of that section. The rest of the climb was a ramp with a few steps.

My climbing partner led the last pitch. It had a funky chimney above the belay then mellowed out after that. It felt good to get such a classic done.

We then headed to the bivy to drink beer then crash. We went out to Chapel Pond after the Noonmark Dinner and found fat conditions on Chounards Gully. I led the first pitch with my new Nomics. First lead and first time using them. Used my Vipers on the Dike. Followed the second pitch.

Wanting to test my abilities with the Nomics we headed over to Crystal Ice Tower. It was also very fat and dripping on the left side so I went right of that. I got a ways up and I swung my right ax and everything plated. With the Vipers and leashes I would have been stuck smashing it away. With the Nomics I moved my left hand to the upper grip put the other ax over my shoulder grabbed the lower grip with my right hand and stepped to the left. I grabbed my other Nomic with my left and moved up the climb. I saved a lot of energy by switching hands. The Nomics also stuck on the first swing a lot more than my Vipers. Needles to say, on probably the last day of my ice season, I went leash less and I don't think I'm going back.

The grip on the Nomic is best I've used. Put the weight on my stronger fingers.

We finished the day climbing the 2 pitches above the Tower. What a nice climb. All ice in a thin gully. It took screws with no problem. We didn't bring rock gear but it would take small and medium cams.

All in all, one of the best ice seasons I've had in years.
_________________________
jugs or mugs

Top
#43835 - 03/27/09 04:31 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: acdnyc]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2957
Loc: LI, NY
Originally Posted By: acdnyc
We finished the day climbing the 2 pitches above the Tower.

white line fever.
good stuff. i think the pitch above the walkoff from chouinards is the better of the 2.
_________________________
tOOthless

Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.

Top
#43840 - 03/27/09 06:22 PM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: empicard]
Dillbag Offline
old hand

Registered: 05/02/06
Posts: 1130
Loc: "The Town"
...yeah, climbing wise... But I find the first has the best views out over chapel pond.
_________________________
...anethum graveolens cucumis sativus!

Top
#43867 - 03/30/09 02:38 AM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: RangerRob]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Now that I've hung up my tools, I'll respond. The season was very good. I got in 30 days, a benchmark of sorts for me. Did a few standout routes, and advanced my game a bit on some leads that made me reach a bit deeper than I am accustomed to doing. Got to climb in some new areas, which keeps it fun and exciting.

Top
#44359 - 04/28/09 01:19 AM Re: How has your climbing season been? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
cfrac Offline
addict

Registered: 04/26/08
Posts: 462
I think this ridiculously hot weather has got me reminiscing about the great ice season. I absolutely loved it and got in 15 days, I guess the highlights were climbing a new route on the escarpment across from Buttermilk, the last pitch double column variation on Wildcat, and a 1 hour 8 min car to car ascent of Buttermilk. Even the less memorable days were great. I also went leashless for most of the season for the first time, that was a wake-up for the fore-arms!!!I also got in 67 days of skiing the first of which was at Belleayre when we got 2 feet in October, man, what a way to start the season! I'm already getting ready for next season, I mean October isn't that far away is it? Here's the video from Wildcat for all those missing the blue stuff... WIldcat ice climbing

Top
Page 1 of 3 1 2 3 >


Moderator:  webmaster 
Sponsored