Shout Box

Who's Online
0 registered (), 9 Guests and 3 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 >
Topic Options
#4320 - 04/26/02 10:09 PM Yosemite?
pisena Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/09/01
Posts: 46
Loc: Prague, CZ
Is anybody going to Yosemite this summer?


Top
#4321 - 04/26/02 10:52 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: pisena]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Just got back (read my new trip report). Hope to go again. Why -- looking for beta or possible partner?

Top
#4322 - 04/27/02 12:29 AM Re: Yosemite?
pisena Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/09/01
Posts: 46
Loc: Prague, CZ
I have free summer and I was wandering to take look out there - so mostly who will be around to hang with (and maybe climb)

Top
#4323 - 04/27/02 01:21 AM Re: Yosemite? [Re: pisena]
Anonymous
Unregistered


If you stay at Camp 4 ("Sunnyside Campground") you can easily find a partner. Believe me: its absolutely no problem. However, just so you know, word has it that Yosemite gets darned hot and stuffy during the summer. As a result, most local climbers head to Toulumne Meadows. Let me know what you decide. Good luck.

Top
#4324 - 04/27/02 06:31 AM Re: Yosemite?
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
watch out, shes crazy! she makes eddie nice & polite!

Top
#4325 - 04/27/02 03:04 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: crackers]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Get out!!! Is that possible?

Top
#4326 - 04/29/02 11:54 AM Re: Yosemite?
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
If you need a parter, contact me, I'll be there most weekends and then I have two friends that will be there from last week until October

Top
#4327 - 04/29/02 12:30 PM Re: Yosemite?
han_solo Offline
addict

Registered: 07/19/01
Posts: 405
Loc: Central PA
BS,
hell yeah it gets hot in the summer, i was out there last year in august and i had to head up to toulume (sp) for almost the entire week!
Frank

Top
#4328 - 04/29/02 04:26 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: pisena]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Take it from me,.... if Chas extends you an invitation, you'd better take advantage of it (see my Yosemite trip report)!!!

Top
#4329 - 04/29/02 05:50 PM Re: Yosemite?
pisena Offline
newbie

Registered: 03/09/01
Posts: 46
Loc: Prague, CZ
Thank's guys, I will take in consideration.
It looks like September.

Top
#4330 - 04/29/02 07:24 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: pisena]
andrew Offline

Pooh-Bah

Registered: 11/15/99
Posts: 1816
Loc: Denver, CO
i'll probably be there in september for two weeks or so.
_________________________
This isn't an office. It's Hell with fluorescent lighting.

Top
#4331 - 04/29/02 11:55 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: andrew]
Ewick Offline
member

Registered: 03/07/01
Posts: 107
Loc: Do you mean now
I'm totally psyched, headin' out that way Sept 14-21. Anyone else gonna be that way at that time? and any suggestions on guide books, routes up to 5.9/10ish?

Top
#4332 - 04/30/02 12:13 AM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Ewick]
Anonymous
Unregistered


In terms of climbing guides, "Rock Climbing: Yosemite Free Climbs" is great. You may also want to check out "Rock Climbing: Toulumne Meadows" both by Falcon Publishing/Chockstone. Also check out Supertopo.com for terrific e-guides.

As mentioned in previous posts, you may want to check out my recent Climbing Trip report. I really couldn't recommend Nutcracker (5.8 5-pitch) more -- really a "must" climb while you're in Yosemite. I've also heard good things about The Braille Book (5.8 6-pitches). Unfortunately, despite Chas' recommendation, I was too intimidated to tie into Commitment (5.9 3-pitch). The good news is that you'll have a lot of quality 5.9/5.10 choices.

Of course, I guess it also depends on what you're looking to do. Hopefully, if I get back again later this year, I'll get in some moderate full-day walls such as the East Buttress (5.10c or 5.9 A0 11-pitches) of Middle Cathedral, Royal Arches (5.10b or 5.7 A0 16-pitches) Northeast Buttress of Higher Cathedral (5.9 11-pitches), the South Face (C1 5.8 10-pitches) or the Prow (C2F 5.6 12-pitches) of Washington Column, or the West Face (C2F 5.7 11-pitches) of Leaning Tower. However, I'll need to be in much better shape than I was two weeks ago!!!

I'm sure Chas will have some additional recommendations......

Top
#4333 - 04/30/02 02:02 AM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Ewick]
Charlie Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 03/10/02
Posts: 271
Loc: Morristown, N.J.
Check out SuperTopo.com. You can purchase a couple of different e guide books there that are excellent and inexpensive. You can also get beta from the site on recent triips. It's an excellent site devoted to Yosemite.
Oops, just noticed that Bloody Stump mentioned SuperTopo.com as well.
So let me add that "Yosemite Ultra Classics" is one of the e guides. It is excellent with climbs from 5.6 to 5.11. The topos are really quality.


Edited by Charlie (04/30/02 02:07 AM)

Top
#4334 - 04/30/02 10:51 AM Re: Yosemite?
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
the demon is back in my head! i thought i lost the yosemite demon last summer (i was there june-oct it was not that hot!) but it is back! bobbys has been bribing me with thoughts about south seas! oh baby! hey bobby i get the A4 pitch!
i may also do some free climbing this time! :::)))
maybe the lsat few weeks in sept! look for me in camp 5
e
_________________________
http://oldstyleportraits.com/

Top
#4335 - 04/30/02 01:36 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: pisena]
Dizzy Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 2177
Loc: Berkshires, MA and Ahlington, ...
Yes, Eddie.....I really will be in Yosemite and Tuolumne September 11-22.


Ta,
Dizz
_________________________
I can handle reality in small doses, but as a lifestyle it's way too confining
-Lily Tomlin

Top
#4336 - 04/30/02 04:03 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Dizzy]
ktclimb Offline
addict

Registered: 05/15/00
Posts: 691
Loc: Adirondacks
I will be working in Wawona, giving tours in the giants, for Yosmeite Park Service, from June to August, so please please any of you going out there, wanting a partner, come by and ask for Katie, I will definitely be looking for climbing partners!!!!!!!!! Just stop by and ask for katie ...
:))))

Top
#4337 - 04/30/02 10:40 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Dizzy]
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
i have heard that before dizzy! we will see.
who is katie?
LOL
_________________________
http://oldstyleportraits.com/

Top
#4338 - 04/30/02 11:46 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Eddie]
John Peterson Offline
member

Registered: 12/28/99
Posts: 139
Loc: Gunnision, CO
If you're in Yosemite go look for the climbing ranger, Lincoln Else. He's a great guy and used to be a gunkie. He's also willing to climb with folks on his off days if you ask nice.

John

Top
#4339 - 05/01/02 12:06 AM Re: Yosemite? [Re: John Peterson]
Anonymous
Unregistered


I will be in yosemite the month of august. I guess it will probably be too hot, but i can always head up to tuloumane. If anyone wants a partner, drop me a line.

Hopefully this will be an epic trip for me. I'll just be turning 21, i'm free climbing pretty strongly, and i am basically heading out to this climbing mecca for an apprenticeship! Any mentors out there looking for a humble taoist climbing student? i'll buy you a cup of coffee if you teach me how to pendulum...

my two summer plans are to climb a 5.13 and climb a big wall ... i hope i can accomplish the later in yosemite...

Top
#4340 - 05/01/02 01:47 AM Re: Yosemite?
Vlad Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 224
Loc: Mountain View, CA
Hey, guys, I just checked - they spell itt "Tuolumne"

Top
#4341 - 05/02/02 04:37 AM Re: Yosemite?
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
Hopefully I will be heading out there for June and July. Not sure what this talk of it being to hot to climb in August. That's nonsense. If there is a record breaking heatwave for a few days, head up to the high country.

Blah, blah, blah, Eddie calls for the A4 pitch. He will probably be calling for the Rubber Man Band pendulumn as well until we get to the base of these pitches, and he is like what, huh, well get up there son, what the hell did I haul you up here in the first place for.

Scratch all that, the real question is whether he will ever actually leave the parking lot. Eddie get off the east buttress. Are you actually psyched for the "Big wall" section of el cap?

Top
#4342 - 05/02/02 01:41 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: BobbyS]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Bobby:

Not sure that you need a "record breaking" heatwave -- the Valley gets damned hot. I was there during the first half of April and it was already getting hot and humid. Also, if you can't take any of our words for it, John Long's books always mention how quiet the Valley gets during the summer as temperatures become untolerable. However, you're right about Toulumne -- it should definately be more comfortable.

As for Eddie,.... who knows.

Top
#4343 - 05/02/02 03:49 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: BobbyS]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
Bobby:
I agree with the Stump. I've been in the valley several times in July & August. It's hot, dry, dusty, and basically unpleasant. Expect mid to upper 90's for highs with low 100's not at all uncommon. Given the light color and reflective nature of the granite, the effective temp on climbs in the sun can be 110F - 120F. It's true that up on the walls, once you're above 1000' up it can be cooler, but even if you're there to do walls, most of your time won't be in the upper reaches. Cooler is relative, too, and don't underestimate the sun.

You know the place is hot when it's still 85F at 7:30 in the evening.
_________________________
- Marc

Top
#4344 - 05/02/02 04:14 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: MarcC]
Anonymous
Unregistered


It seems I have a talent for stating the obvious to those already in the know.......... BobbyS is very familiar with Yosemite heat: he was formerly a member of YOSAR. Apparently, his post was merely tongue-in-cheek. Sorry.

Top
#4345 - 05/02/02 05:12 PM Re: Yosemite?
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
DOH!
Now you tell me!
_________________________
- Marc

Top
#4346 - 05/02/02 05:56 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: MarcC]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Yosemite can be funny, One year, in May we couldn't drink enough water it was so hot but 3wks later in June, Vlad and I got chased out of the Valley for a day because of snow. It can be 90-100degrees or a more pleasant 80degrees.

Top
#4347 - 05/02/02 06:20 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Chas]
ktclimb Offline
addict

Registered: 05/15/00
Posts: 691
Loc: Adirondacks
it does get pretty hot there in the later summer months...we did our two walls in August last summer, and we fried up there like eggs in a frying pan, as eddie used to say...
but the nice thing about it was, we had the walls to ourselves....eveyone else was smart enough to flee the valley.....
Thanks for the tip about Lincoln, I have emailed him a few times, and I will be bugging him more as the time comes....

Top
#4348 - 05/02/02 09:58 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: ktclimb]
Anonymous
Unregistered


I climb in the Valley probably 8-10 times a year. I usually don't go between July and August. It's too damn hot. This is the perfect time. You should just hop on the plane now. Spring is also nice because the Valley is relatively empty with respects to non-climbing tourists. You can actually get a table at the Pizza Deck this time of year without waiting! Woohoooo! The only problem with April and May is the weather changes quite a bit. It can snow, be scorching hot, thunderstorms, you name it and probably in a 24 hour period.

Oh ya. The waterfalls are really nice this time of year. You won't get that in the summer and fall.

Top
#4349 - 05/02/02 11:31 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: BobbyS]
Eddie Offline
veteran

Registered: 12/23/99
Posts: 1446
Loc: NP. NY
el cap has BIG WALLS????? i never knew! i should have left the E buttress!
it is not that hot in the valley in summer....scratch that!!!! IT IS WAAAAAYYYYYY TOOO HOT TO CLIMB!!!! stay home, go to work and pay your taxes!

eddie
bobby i bring you along so you can carry the pig down the east ledges......NO not that girl you picked up at the bar!!!! the PIG! duh! the haul bag! what was her name???????
_________________________
http://oldstyleportraits.com/

Top
#4350 - 05/03/02 04:42 AM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Eddie]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
berta. her name was berta!

Top
#4351 - 05/03/02 04:42 AM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Eddie]
crackers Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 03/21/01
Posts: 3424
Loc: pdx
did you get her email ed?
or does jen have it? Larry? does jen have it?

Top
#4352 - 05/03/02 04:47 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: crackers]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
Whose email are you talking about. Not a chance I would pass along Berta's email so that she can get harassing emails from weak, american, little boy climbers. For now, you will just have to be satisfied with the shot in the gallery section. Although, in Eddie's case that scares me a little.

Back to the hot issue. It is all relative and you get used to the heat. I was there June July August, 2 summers ago and June to Nov. this season. I like the summer because it is more quite. Not so many people on the walls or most of the great free routes. Come Sept. expect to find people waiting in line with their haul bags on the trade routes.

Sept is the best month, but I climb in the valley all through those months. Bubu, the Italian Stalion was on freerider when we were on the Salathe in Oct, and he still felt like it was to hot, while Alex was up on the Captain all sept. and finished his route. Climbing walls at night is another nice alternative.

Even when it is really hot you can find stuff in the shade. The river will always be cool and refreshing. Agree that the weather is more unstable in the spring but often better temps. Better waterfalls then as well. Agree with finding a place at the pizza deck without waiting.

Top
#4353 - 05/03/02 05:43 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: MarcC]
Bolt_Skytop Offline
addict

Registered: 11/21/01
Posts: 422
Loc: New Paltz, New York
I am a teacher so my choices are in the simmer or not at all. What do you think? Should I look for alternatives? Squamish? I really would like to live in camp four for two months, but if the climbing is going to be miserable.......

Top
#4354 - 05/03/02 06:04 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Bolt_Skytop]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
No, the climbing will be good, and Tuolumne is awesome (and the camping near Ellery Lake free!!!

I would do both. On the way back stop off in Squish, the climbing is VERY clean , and incredibly good (with Exasperator, Clean Crack, and Crime of the Century, along with the Grand Wall, not to be missed).

Top
#4355 - 05/03/02 08:38 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: Chas]
BobbyS Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 08/28/00
Posts: 367
Loc: None
I lived in Camp IV the last two summer. Squamish would be great but one issue is the weather can be pretty bad. It rains quite a bit. It almost never rains in the valley during the summer. I think it rained maybe once from July to August. It was for maybe 10min and the rock was dry 1hr later.

Top
#4356 - 05/04/02 11:09 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: pisena]
Anonymous
Unregistered


Cool. I just got a grant to do independent research out in California this summer, which means a bit of climbing too. I'll be based out of Arcata on the weekends, but I will have to head down to the valley. If any of ya'll are interested, give me an email and we can climb. So psyched.....

Top
#4357 - 05/11/02 09:00 PM Re: Yosemite? [Re: pisena]
Anonymous
Unregistered


I am planning on driving to California sometime in the next few weeks. Anyone interested in sharing/driving/expenses and climbing please respond. I just came back from one month climbing in j.tree. I am personable, and interested in doing moderate climbs.Will consider other area along the way as well.

Top
Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 4 >


Moderator:  andrew, Mike Rawdon 
Sponsored