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#43043 - 02/11/09 02:45 PM Easy aid climbing in the gunks?
mr.tastycakes Offline
newbie

Registered: 12/07/08
Posts: 25
Hey all. I'm hoping to get out before the start of the season to sharpen up my placement skills, particularly nutcraft, via some aid climbing. I'll not be using hooks or any of that noise as the goal is to practice free climbing placements. Can a brother get some recommendations for easy aid climbing in the gunks? A little mandatory free climbing is fine as long as it's easy (.6 or less) and reasonably protected. Ken's seems to fit the bill. Thanks.

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#43044 - 02/11/09 02:59 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: mr.tastycakes]
empicard Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 08/29/01
Posts: 2955
Loc: LI, NY
ive done Kens Crack and either nosedive or retribution, which ever is the one on the right. both were good enough to recommend, and enough for me to realize aid gets boring QUICK.

check out http://www.ghiz.org/gunksaid.shtml
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#43045 - 02/11/09 05:27 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: empicard]
GOclimb Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/26/01
Posts: 2361
Loc: Boston
When you say easy aid, do you mean as in A1, or do you mean you only kinda know how to place gear, so it should be butt-easy?

Cause Kansas City is a really fun A1 route, but if you're not very good at placing gear yet, something like Rhododendron, Ken's, or Finger Locks would be better.

Either way, have fun!

GO

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#43046 - 02/11/09 05:45 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: GOclimb]
mr.tastycakes Offline
newbie

Registered: 12/07/08
Posts: 25
butt-easy all the way. If i found myself on the kansas city roof i'd probably poop my pants.

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#43047 - 02/11/09 06:13 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: mr.tastycakes]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
Do Crass (close part of Nears) up to the fixed anchor. Better than tying up Ken's, which other folks might be waiting to climb. Or that super steep 5.9 crack at the far end of Nears, the name I can't remember. It's close to Lean & Mean.

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#43049 - 02/11/09 09:20 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: Mike Rawdon]
caver Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 260
Loc: High Falls
Up in Arms?

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#43053 - 02/11/09 09:47 PM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: caver]
Fraser Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/15/02
Posts: 700
Loc: New Canaan, CT
if you do a search on this site from a few years ago, there was a good thread already.

There is also a website dedicated to aid climbing in the gunks.

My recommendation is P-38. Easy approach and it was originally an aid climb with 38 pitons (hence the name).

Let me know when you're going and I'll bring a book and watch!

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#43055 - 02/12/09 12:22 AM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: caver]
Mike Rawdon Offline

Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 11/29/99
Posts: 4276
Loc: Poughkeepsie
 Originally Posted By: caver
Up in Arms?


Yea, that's it. Not too demanding gear-wise. Just cams all the way as I remember. Should be a good aid exercise though, since it's steep.

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#43058 - 02/12/09 01:48 AM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: GOclimb]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: GOclimb
Cause Kansas City is a really fun A1 route, but if you're not very good at placing gear yet...

I dunno. I thought the aid gear on KC was very straight-forward and easy to place well. However I found getting over the lip of the roof incredibly awkward with a capital AWK. The difficulty being in that immediately above the lip, the angle kicks way back to almost flat, so each time you try to get higher/stand up in the aiders, your feet and legs swing back under the roof since your center of gravity is still below the roof. The placements weren't difficult, but figuring out just where to place the final two pieces to overcome physics took a little experimentation.
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#43060 - 02/12/09 03:53 AM Re: Easy aid climbing in the gunks? [Re: MarcC]
RangerRob Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 06/06/00
Posts: 3765
Loc: Ulster County, NY
Yeah, go to that website. Most of the easy aid lines are listed there. Just a note if you're not used to aiding.....easier free climbing grade does not necessarily equal easier aid climbing. The two are not related. I would recommend Nosedive as a great one to start on. Good gear all the way, straight line, easy to get off. Harvest Moon is also pretty good and easy for aid. Kansas City is as C1 as it gets, but it is a roof, and aiding a roof has it's own special techniques. Do a couple of vertical routes before trying the horizontal ones.

RR

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