Yep. Makes sense. Especially since YV and NC are both granite, a very different animal than Gunks conglomerate.

Regarding North Conway old school grades - there is nothing more daunting and possibly terrifying than a late 70's Jimmy Dunn "5.9+" - could be anywhere from 10a to 11d.

Thanks for all the advice. I don't know my partner very well (a friend of a friend who lives in SF), but I get the vibe he's a sport clipper (FWIW he's French!).

I've TR'ed granite once in Icicle Creek Canyon in Leavenworth WA, and I felt reasonably comfortable on 5.7's, but I guess leading will be a different kettle of fish. I've done quite a bit of alpine/mountaineering stuff so I'm not totally out of hiking shape :P.

I guess I'll just spend the first couple of days climbing more moderate stuff and seeing how I feel before making a decision.

Good call.

Snake Dike runout (1970's)

Super Topo's Good Climbs for Your First Week in Yosemite lists a 5.6, three 5.7's, two 5.8's, and three 5.9's. There's hardly anything there worth doing at 5.6 and under; Yosemite climbing basically starts at 5.8. The Snake Dike Topo is free. The included picture looks pretty much the same as the one I just posted.

As for grades, I don't think climbers unused to granite will find them in any way soft. Perhaps a 5.7 pitch won't have individual moves of as hard as you might find on a 5.7 crux in the Gunks, but it will make up for that by having far longer sections without the kinds of secure pauses that are typical of Gunks routes. The need to keep things together is far greater than anything you'll find in the Gunks at similar grades.

GRACK GRACK GRACK center one of my all time favorite days ever.
if you the snow allows it, cathedral peak.
and there's a mellow 5.6 on lembert dome.

The premiere example is Reed's Pinnacle Direct. The classic P2 is rated 5.9, but actually has no single move harder than 5.7 - it also doesn't have any moves easier than 5.7, for 140'.

Whatever you do, I would strongly suggest that you DO NOT do the Great White Book (5.6R) on Stately Pleasure Dome in Tuolomne. Although 5.6, with breathtaking scenery and a great route, it is definitely not for the beginning leader...especially one just breaking into those grades. Its 3rd pitch section is scary, committing, pukingly runout (I think I placed a small TCU in 100') and slick as glass in places. Having done this route after climbing for 20 years, it had me whimpering. Don't be lulled into a false sense of security by its grade. Stay with the aforementioned recommendations.

Typical Tuolumne. Never be surprised at a big run-out on 5.8 & 5.9 and positively huge run-outs (like possibly entire pitches) below that. But one example: the pitch after the 5.9 crux pitch of The Coming is 5.6 knobs with no cracks for 160'. Your rack for the pitch is a single quick draw for the lone bolt at 80'.

As a mostly Gunks climber who took his first trip to Yosemite last summer, I can vouch for the advice you're getting here. I specifically agree with:

- Gunks grades vs Yosemite grades: both are a little stiff, but the climbing is so different, so it is hard to know how you'll do.

- Snake Dike: my friend calls it Snake Hike, we climbed it, it was a very long day. One of our parties missed the one bolt on a pitch - 120' with no pro!

- Royal Arches: You need to be fast on this one, its roughly 15 pitches, and you don't want to do the ten rappels in the dark, or the North Dome Gully walk off, or the eight mile trail walk to Camp 4.

- Highly recommend a lot of prep time on New Hampshire granite routes - about as similar to Yosemite as you'll find in the northeast.

One more thing - DOUBLE ROPES!!!

JDW