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#43674 - 03/20/09 02:26 PM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: jdw]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
I had forgot about a couple of areas. For a moderate leader, check out Manure Pile Buttress. The most popular route there is Nutcracker and justifiably so but check the topo. Not one for a leader breaking into the grade because of the last pitch (has a funky mantle) but there is a bunch of other stuff. The Five Open Books with Munginella, Commitment...... Also on the other side of the Falls is a couple of good stuff. To get a hnag of the rock there is a cliff next to the roadd between Camp 4 and the Yosemite Falls.

Tuolumne, while amazingly beautiful, is not nice for the below 5.9 leader. Below 5.9 things tend to be runout. From 5.9 to 5.12 things "tend" to be fairly well protected, with very important deviations.

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#43678 - 03/20/09 03:49 PM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: Chas]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
If you are looking for sport clip ups, there is a fun day out at Schultz's ridge/Dan and Jerry's playground. Super short approach, nice soft grades, plenty of bolts. Quite unlike Yosemite. If you find yourself hiking hard up a steep trail, you missed the bolts and are heading for the Moratorium, which is quite another matter.


 Originally Posted By: Chas
I had forgot about a couple of areas. For a moderate leader, check out Manure Pile Buttress. The most popular route there is Nutcracker and justifiably so but check the topo. Not one for a leader breaking into the grade because of the last pitch (has a funky mantle) but there is a bunch of other stuff. The Five Open Books with Munginella, Commitment...... Also on the other side of the Falls is a couple of good stuff. To get a hnag of the rock there is a cliff next to the roadd between Camp 4 and the Yosemite Falls.

Tuolumne, while amazingly beautiful, is not nice for the below 5.9 leader. Below 5.9 things tend to be runout. From 5.9 to 5.12 things "tend" to be fairly well protected, with very important deviations.

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#43680 - 03/20/09 07:02 PM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: Chas]
MarcC Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 07/10/00
Posts: 3532
 Originally Posted By: Chas
To get a hnag of the rock there is a cliff next to the roadd between Camp 4 and the Yosemite Falls.

Swan Slab
_________________________
- Marc

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#43686 - 03/21/09 02:41 AM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: MarcC]
KG Offline
stranger

Registered: 03/18/09
Posts: 10
Loc: NJ
Are there any particular pieces of gear I should add to my rack before I head out there? I'm looking to add a couple of pieces soon anyway.

My current rack looks like this:
Camalots 0.5-2
TCUs 0-2
Tricams 0.5-2
BD nuts 4-11
Link Cam #1

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#43689 - 03/21/09 12:56 PM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: KG]
chip Offline
Carpal Tunnel

Registered: 10/06/01
Posts: 2676
Loc: Sittin' Pretty in Fat City
You can use all of that and more. You will want at least one larger cam, depending on what you tackle. You might want several. Again, the superTopo gives you a recommended rack for every climb.

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#43741 - 03/23/09 08:33 PM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: chip]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
As Chip says, look at Supertaco. Its easy to use a larger cam in Yosemite on moderate routes (the 3.0 Blue Camalot gets a lot of use). Some routes you'd want more then one of each size of cam. When I was living in the Bay Area I'd generally use doubles on moderate stuff, and triples or sometimes even more on harder routes). I never found tricams to be of any use out here (except for ice climbs) but to each their own. The nuts will be used a lot, especially the 4-7 BD nuts.

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#43742 - 03/23/09 08:59 PM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: Chas]
ianmanger Offline
enthusiast

Registered: 04/25/03
Posts: 319
Agreed. Supertaco is usually pretty conservative and the gear guides are fair. Having blundered up Moby Dick Center with only a #3Camelot and a smattering of small gear, I can say from experience that you should read these carefully and not skimp. If you know this climb, you'll know just how much I wanted mo' bigger gear or just to be plain elsewhere..
Even on short classics like Bishop's Terrace, you'll need the #3 and probably the next size up. Don't miss Jamcrack on Sunnyside Bench. Good place to practice jams.

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#43743 - 03/23/09 09:33 PM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: ianmanger]
Chas Offline
Pooh-Bah

Registered: 03/22/01
Posts: 1754
Loc: Flagstaff
Originally Posted By: ianmanger
Agreed. Supertaco is usually pretty conservative and the gear guides are fair. Having blundered up Moby Dick Center with only a #3Camelot and a smattering of small gear, I can say from experience that you should read these carefully and not skimp. If you know this climb, you'll know just how much I wanted mo' bigger gear or just to be plain elsewhere..
Even on short classics like Bishop's Terrace, you'll need the #3 and probably the next size up. Don't miss Jamcrack on Sunnyside Bench. Good place to practice jams.


I've seen a lot of people do that only to wimper that they want several of the greys and the purples (of the bigger BD's not the smaller). Chris Mac, Greg and company pride themselves on the accurate and reasonble informationin their guides. I've seen them decline an entire guidebook to an area just north of Yosemite since it wasn't up to their standard

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#43744 - 03/23/09 09:36 PM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: ianmanger]
wombat Offline
member

Registered: 05/27/08
Posts: 147
Loc: gardiner
my calves still hurt from slabaneering in tuolomne a few years ago. i would say cathedral would be the easiest transition for a moderate gunks leader. there was an arching crack dihedral across the road from Tenaya Lake that was pretty straight forward as well. dont recall the name.

i havent got a chance to climb in the valley, but up in tuolomne keep telling yourself that the knobs will hold and bolts are overrated.

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#43748 - 03/24/09 01:21 AM Re: Easy Yosemite leads? [Re: wombat]
tokyo bill Offline
old hand

Registered: 08/24/00
Posts: 793
Loc: Tokyo
Originally Posted By: wombat
there was an arching crack dihedral across the road from Tenaya Lake that was pretty straight forward as well. dont recall the name.


West country (5.7), maybe?



Nice route.

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